Dartin for Divorce

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Bled brakes... I can't get these damn front calipers to stop sticking. I have bled them way to many times... I have replaced everything except the prop valve. I hate the brakes... one day I'll just buy new everything again...

Drove to store. The car needs washed, I got dust all over it while sanding the gate for the stairs.

Installed my shifter knob. It's great. I may end up with wood grain stickers for everything after all.

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I don't remember reading whether you'd checked for residual pressure valves in your front brake circuit?

If you search residual pressure valve, you'll find all the info. But basically, if the master was built for front drums, it may contain one that you need to remove. Worth checking for, at least. It can cause brakes to stick, but typically they'll stick, drag and stay stuck the entire time.. My car had them, and when I went to front disc I didn't check. Wouldn't roll in neutral on a modest hill.. Removed it and everything worked so much better.
 
Phreakish said:
I don't remember reading whether you'd checked for residual pressure valves in your front brake circuit?

If you search residual pressure valve, you'll find all the info. But basically, if the master was built for front drums, it may contain one that you need to remove. Worth checking for, at least. It can cause brakes to stick, but typically they'll stick, drag and stay stuck the entire time.. My car had them, and when I went to front disc I didn't check. Wouldn't roll in neutral on a modest hill.. Removed it and everything worked so much better.
Click to expand...


In my front brake circuit I have the MC that goes to the prop valve (only 1 piece prop valve) then the lines go to the front brakes and nothing else.

Yes my car won't roll until the fronts stop sticking for like 3-5 seconds and it feels as if they drag a touch.
 

70aarcuda said:
if you come over...i have one you can use ...and see if it works.....
Click to expand...

I always feel bad taking your stuff, but I will take you up on that.

While we are at it, I think my stock heads are a little heavy and not functioning properly. Have any of them shiney heads laying around for me to try out? Lol :poke::rofl:
 
70aarcuda said:
have a set just picked up at the machine shop in back set of truck......just help yourself...lol
Click to expand...

Wait you got another set done? Or is this a set that they have had for a bit? So many, I can't ever remember lol.

I mean a dirtier used pair would of been sufficient but I mean if you really need me to try out the ones from the machine shop, I guess I could. :lol:

Btw- I told Cassidy about shiny heads comment and she just shook her head, laughed and called me a dork. :rolleyes:
 
DentalDart said:
In my front brake circuit I have the MC that goes to the prop valve (only 1 piece prop valve) then the lines go to the front brakes and nothing else.

Yes my car won't roll until the fronts stop sticking for like 3-5 seconds and it feels as if they drag a touch.
Click to expand...

The residual pressure valve would be inside the master, right behind where the line goes into the side of it for the front circuit. If you search it, you'll see a picture. If you go to replace the prop valve, take a look-see to make sure it's not there since you'll be in there anyway and it won't change how much you'll need to bleed it ;)
 
Doc....congrats on passing the big tests!! :thumbsup: It looks like you converted to a modern 2 bolt master cylinder in one of the pics a few pages back. Is it possible that the plumbing between the master and the prop valve could be reversed? If it is, that may explain the brakes sticking if the front brakes are plumbed to the drum/rear portion of the master. I had a sneaky idea on the driveway oil spots! If the stains don't come off, pry the stained pavers out and flip them over. :) That should just be sand between them. You may have to go all Ninja to do it without getting caught, and do it at 2 am under a tarp so the HOA biddies won't see you....lol.
 
JDMopar said:
Doc....congrats on passing the big tests!! :thumbsup: It looks like you converted to a modern 2 bolt master cylinder in one of the pics a few pages back. Is it possible that the plumbing between the master and the prop valve could be reversed? If it is, that may explain the brakes sticking if the front brakes are plumbed to the drum/rear portion of the master. I had a sneaky idea on the driveway oil spots! If the stains don't come off, pry the stained pavers out and flip them over. :) That should just be sand between them. You may have to go all Ninja to do it without getting caught, and do it at 2 am under a tarp so the HOA biddies won't see you....lol.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the congrats, it's a big weight to be lifted off my shoulders thats for sure.

Yes I converted to 2 bolt MC, figured it would hopefully make the brakes work better... but never the less here I am still fighting them lol.

I actually already went to flip the pavers, they are not double sided though. The bottom is flat and the top is not flat so I'd have to buy new pavers... which I might. They are only like 1.50 each.
 
DentalDart said:
Thanks for the congrats, it's a big weight to be lifted off my shoulders thats for sure.

Yes I converted to 2 bolt MC, figured it would hopefully make the brakes work better... but never the less here I am still fighting them lol.

I actually already went to flip the pavers, they are not double sided though. The bottom is flat and the top is not flat so I'd have to buy new pavers... which I might. They are only like 1.50 each.
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5 gallons of gas and a match. That should blend those stains in nicely. Lol. Just kidding kidding... BUT, a little lacquer thinner, some floor dry, some epidermis protection and some arm joint grease might geterdone.
We should all be proud of your recent accreditations.
 
JDMopar said:
Doc....congrats on passing the big tests!! :thumbsup: It looks like you converted to a modern 2 bolt master cylinder in one of the pics a few pages back. Is it possible that the plumbing between the master and the prop valve could be reversed? If it is, that may explain the brakes sticking if the front brakes are plumbed to the drum/rear portion of the master. I had a sneaky idea on the driveway oil spots! If the stains don't come off, pry the stained pavers out and flip them over. :) That should just be sand between them. You may have to go all Ninja to do it without getting caught, and do it at 2 am under a tarp so the HOA biddies won't see you....lol.
Click to expand...

Ok...

So I got to thinking about this and decided to check to make sure I rehooked it all up properly....

Damn... I had the front port on the MC going to the front brakes and rear port on the MC going to the rear brakes... oops backwards...

switched them... which should have been an easy fix but nope, thread stripped... of course, everything that can go wrong does with me...

Made new line, bench bled MC again, fluid in line then hooked it up.

While the car was up I fixed my leaking trans cooler line (I think), then fixed leaking oil drain plug (hopefully). And I got the bolt to install my air cleaner top, which is super dirty like the rest of the car. Lol

Bleeding brakes now and we will give her a go!

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Still sticking/ dragging. FSM states - air in lines or shoes over-adjusted. I bled them by myself so... ill drive it around a couple of times then take it to Tony's to use a proper bleeder lol
 
Why in the world did you pull the master off to bench bleed it, you could have just pushed the petal down.
Also, I never bench bleed a master, I just crack the bleader and push the fluid out, never pump them at all.
 
sireland67 said:
Why in the world did you pull the master off to bench bleed it, you could have just pushed the petal down.
Also, I never bench bleed a master, I just crack the bleader and push the fluid out, never pump them at all.
Click to expand...

I pulled it because I stripped brake line fitting lol. I wasn't planning on pulling it, that is for sure.
 
Good idea Dental Dart. I’ve done the same thing in my garage for my 66 Plymouth Valiant but I did it for two reasons. One to keep the dripping oil from soiling my garage floor and more importantly to keep the moisture that bleeds from the concrete (not visible) from affecting the undercarriage of my car). I also have a couple of rubber mats on top of the carpet so that I can remove and clean them off from time to time. Marty
 
Fix 2 leaks and new one starts... time for new fuel pump... mine is squirting fuel out of this hole... maybe that's why I get such bad gas mileage. Maybe my car is mad at me because I haven't washed it in a while...

@70aarcuda bet if I had a 408 it wouldn't leak fuel... or anything else :)

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Carter fuel pump ordered, not the super expensive one, just one to get the car drivable again. I'll get a "better" one when I have funds to build an engine that "needs" the "better" one lol.
 
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