Dash body not grounding out

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matt030305

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hey all, I have a duster with some MAJOR electrical issues. I hooked up the amp gauge since I was replacing it and put the car back together. Once put back together I hooked up the battery and nothing worked. Turns out the dash does not ground out for some reason (checked with a multimeter and amp gauge showed 11.67V on both the positive and negative end) when I tried grounding out the dash with a wire, I got sparks. Any reason why this could be happening? Thanks
 
Might just be sparks from completing the connection.
 
the sparks are constant, so it’s not completing the circuit unfortunately
 
NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I bet money you TRIED TO GROUND the big black AMMETER wire!!! THAT IS NOT GROUND!!!!!!!!!

Both sides of the AMMETER!!!!! are ALWAYS!!!! HOT!!!!! and they are NOT!!!!! FUSED!!!!!

That circuit is poorly protected by the fuse link!!!!!
 
FIRST!!!: What are we working on? What YEAR!!!???

If it is 73 or earlier, go over to MyMopar.com and download a factory service manual free. Then go to the wiring section and also download the 2-page aftermarket wiring diagram, which is NOT always perfectly detailed and correct, but is sometimes easier to follow

IF YOU HAVE a 74, I can provide a digital copy of the manual, but it is too big to upload. Send me a PM if this is so

DASH/ CLUSTER grounding: It is a well known fact that the instrument cluster was originally grounded by it's mounting screws, and now, decades later, rust, etc may not provide a good ground. CONNECT a grounding pigtail to a ground point on the cluster. You only need to look at it and follow the PC board traces to the common lighting bulb sockets to figure out where this is so. IF NOT post a good clean photo of the rear of your cluster and someone here can tell you where to connect.
 
Since I/ we really don't know what you did/ caused, or what the problem is, DO THIS

1...Disconnect the batter ground cable

2....Start troubleshooting by leaving the cluster OUT but take a small machine screw and nut and bolt the ammeter connections (the large red and large black, both with eyelet terminals) together and TAPE

3...Next protect the harness wiring by taking a large wattage 12V lamp, such as either an old but working head lamp or a stop/ tail lamp and wire that lamp in SERIES between the battery neg post and the ground cable. Alligator/ battery charger clips are a help, here

4....Now, with this bulb in series, a short or other large current will not blow fuses, nor burn up wiring.

5....Now start by determining if the ammeter circuit--which is supplied by the red from the battery, through the fuse link, and through the bulkhead connector--determine if that is live, and see if say, the park or dome lights work. Something which draws a small amount of current, such as the dome light, should light almost as bright as normal through your protective ground lamp. The headlights will not. They may glow a bit, and they will likely cause your ground protection lamp to light brightly.

The starter will not work, but if you disconnect the "square screw" terminal at the starter relay, you should be able to twist the key to start, and hear the starter relay click.

Then go from there.

IF YOU caused this short AND IF you are lucking and did not blow out the fuse link, then remove the series ground lamp and see if it will crank, start, etc, and see what else works.
 
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checked with a multimeter and amp gauge showed 11.67V on both the positive and negative end) when I tried grounding out the dash with a wire


Assuming you are not working on the later model that uses an external shunt Ammeter....

The ammeter is a passthrough devise it does not have a positive and negative end per say.

One side is attached to the alternator and the other side is attached to the battery.

It measures if current is flowing into or out from the battery.

If you measure from ground (chassis) to the red side or the black side you SHOULD get battery voltage.

The spark you are getting from your dash could be as mentioned from the electronics of the dash energizing OR you may have pinched some wires.

67dart273 gave you a ton of great advice
 
Yea, here we go again trying to diagnose problems with a crystal ball. The problem is, I can't see it from my house. LMAO
 
hey all, I have a duster with some MAJOR electrical issues. I hooked up the amp gauge since I was replacing it and put the car back together. Once put back together I hooked up the battery and nothing worked. Turns out the dash does not ground out for some reason (checked with a multimeter and amp gauge showed 11.67V on both the positive and negative end) when I tried grounding out the dash with a wire, I got sparks. Any reason why this could be happening? Thanks

As others said, positive and negative of what? The Amp meter is not a load, do not short either to ground, as mentioned above. Likely the bulkhead connection needs “tightening”.
 
Sounds to me like you mounted the ammeter without the insulator washers. How about a photo of the back side of the instrument cluster close to the ammeter posts?
 
Sounds to me like you mounted the ammeter without the insulator washers
That's a good thought

If op replaced the meter it might be shorted to the frame and when grounded it makes a dead short to ground.
 
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