Paul King
MrPJK
I have a 1966 dodge dart ,The fuel guage isn't working ,There is a little plugin voltage regulator behind the gauges ,Is there a better and improved regulator that I can purchase .Hope I explained this properly,Thanks Paul
Dash Cluster
- Thread starter Paul King
- Start date
-
Most you can buy today are electronic.
But you can find an OEM mechanical if you are interested
But you can find an OEM mechanical if you are interested
rustyswinger
Well-Known Member
I may be wrong but I thought the earlier Darts had the voltage regulator in the fuel gauge?
I made an electronic VR with a few parts ordered online. Bought enough to cobble together 5 voltage regs for about 20 bucks delivered to my front door.
rustyswinger
Well-Known Member
I just checked and it looks like I may be off on my comment about the fuel gauge.
Nevertheless, it's a simple cheap long term solution. I was pretty happy with myself for sorting it out!
The regulator is a plug in for the 66 Darts. Here's a good thread about 66 Dart gas gauges. 66 Dart gas Gauge
Paul King
MrPJK
Thanks everyone,My temp gauge seems to work properly ,Does this mean it is the gas gauge only that is bad .
Yes, but it might not be guage it might be sender or wiring
But it does indicate that the IVR is working correctly
Paul King
MrPJK
I tapped the plastic in front of the fuel gauge and it shot right to empty ,I believe the gauge is shot and I have a spare one,not looking forward to takeing the dash apart.LOL Thanks everyone
You'll find that the nuts that attach gauge studs to circuit board are stamped tin speedy nuts. This is because the studs are swedged into a fiber board. Weak nut on a weak stud. I've seen these studs so rusted that a real fine thread nut probably would have cracked the board before backing off.
Anyway... The fiber boards distort with age and gauge weight over the 50+ years, the nuts become loose, connection to circuit board becomes intermittent.
Paul King
MrPJK
I replaced the sending unit ,im glad I did the filter fell apart when I touched it .
Have you temporarily shorted the wire at the sender and looked for movement on the guage.
If you check the posts on the back of the gauge with a volt meter you should have about 5 v on both posts. With the sender wire shorted you should have about 5 on one lead and about 0 on the other.
If without the sender wire shorted you have 5 on one and 0 on the other the guage is broken inside.
If you check the posts on the back of the gauge with a volt meter you should have about 5 v on both posts. With the sender wire shorted you should have about 5 on one lead and about 0 on the other.
If without the sender wire shorted you have 5 on one and 0 on the other the guage is broken inside.
Please note, Amp gauge is hot at all times. Disconnect neg' battery cable is first step of most any service, especially this one.
Your inst' panel is much easier than some of the others to R&R. After you have removed it once, you might decide its wasn't so difficult.
If you decide you don't want to R&R it repeatedly for one problem after another,,, do everything you can do while you have it out. Clean all electrical contacts. Every little screw that attaches circuit board to housing is part of the ground path. Replace all light bulbs ( LEDs optional ). Replace antique mechanical voltage limiter with new (solid state IVR from RTE best option but pricey). Clean crud from the square drive port on back of speedometer. I wont go into pulling the speedometer cable for clean and lube because I don't know the 66 is made the same as 67 up.
If you don't bypass the amp gauge, at least pull and inspect it. If there is metal debris on its little round magnet, compressed air will remove it. Replacing the amp gauge with a volts gauge may or may not be an option. Some housing designs don't provide enough space to fit a aftermarket volt gauge in them.
Wiper pivots is a totally different section of service manual but... one of them is right there behind the inst' panel. Look for evidence of water leak there.
Your inst' panel is much easier than some of the others to R&R. After you have removed it once, you might decide its wasn't so difficult.
If you decide you don't want to R&R it repeatedly for one problem after another,,, do everything you can do while you have it out. Clean all electrical contacts. Every little screw that attaches circuit board to housing is part of the ground path. Replace all light bulbs ( LEDs optional ). Replace antique mechanical voltage limiter with new (solid state IVR from RTE best option but pricey). Clean crud from the square drive port on back of speedometer. I wont go into pulling the speedometer cable for clean and lube because I don't know the 66 is made the same as 67 up.
If you don't bypass the amp gauge, at least pull and inspect it. If there is metal debris on its little round magnet, compressed air will remove it. Replacing the amp gauge with a volts gauge may or may not be an option. Some housing designs don't provide enough space to fit a aftermarket volt gauge in them.
Wiper pivots is a totally different section of service manual but... one of them is right there behind the inst' panel. Look for evidence of water leak there.
-
