Dash installation helpful tips

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AlV

AlV

Crabs in a barrel
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Greetings FABO,

I getting ready to install the dash back into the Dart and thought it would be a good idea to hear from folks on the forum about their dash installation experiences. I'm looking for any tips, things to look out for, sequencing, or general thoughts on the installation that would help me along.

It's a 69 Dart and the dash is complete with everything attached.
  • the steering column out of the way but the column studs are still attached.
  • the A-pillar trim is installed.

One thing I've done is sanded the frame mounting points by the doors to ensure a good ground (read that on this site).

Thanks!
AlV
 
have a friend around to help.. that dash isn't overly heavy but it can be awkward, and if the windshield is out and you have access to those cleco fasteners - use a couple to hold the front of the dash still while you get those fun little screws in place.. I found it easiest to use the holes to either side of the middle one.. oh, blue painters tape - it'll be obvious where you need it once you get going.
 
Flip the top speed bolt clips around the windshield upside down and install the bolts through the bottom so if you need to pull the dash later, you won't have to pull the windshield!!
 
Woods74 said:
Flip the top speed bolt clips around the windshield upside down and install the bolts through the bottom so if you need to pull the dash later, you won't have to pull the windshield!!
Click to expand...

This. I was able to install mine by myself, but it was about the limit of my strength, which has been greatly diminished by age and Arthritic problems.

"The key" is getting the two side bolts. Install longer bolts first and leave them "out" you can hook the two big side ears on them. I don't recall a particular fight over the column support on mine. DEFINATELY install the clips along the windshield reversed and put the bolts in from the bottom.
 
ScampMike said:
have a friend around to help.. that dash isn't overly heavy but it can be awkward, and if the windshield is out and you have access to those cleco fasteners - use a couple to hold the front of the dash still while you get those fun little screws in place.. I found it easiest to use the holes to either side of the middle one.. oh, blue painters tape - it'll be obvious where you need it once you get going.
Click to expand...

Cool Thanks!
I'm thinking the painters tape should go on the lip where the 5 bolts mount. It seems to me like the Center of the dash might distort a bit and sag. should I be concerned about leaving tape there as a possible rust issue?
 
Woods74 said:
Flip the top speed bolt clips around the windshield upside down and install the bolts through the bottom so if you need to pull the dash later, you won't have to pull the windshield!!
Click to expand...
Thanks Woods.

Interesting thought about flipping the clips.
two questions about that.
the lip on the bottom end has a bit of a rise cylinder and I'm wondering if you had any trouble with the gasket or glass because of them sticking up like that?Along the same lines what about the screw points? did you file those down?

thanks for the tips!
 
67Dart273 said:
This. I was able to install mine by myself, but it was about the limit of my strength, which has been greatly diminished by age and Arthritic problems.

"The key" is getting the two side bolts. Install longer bolts first and leave them "out" you can hook the two big side ears on them. I don't recall a particular fight over the column support on mine. DEFINATELY install the clips along the windshield reversed and put the bolts in from the bottom.
Click to expand...
THanks Del, I was thinking id back out the side bolts a bit to receive thethe dash mounts but longer bolts sound like a good idea.

Regarding the clips see my points (no pun intended) in post #6 to woods74.

Did you notice any issues with things poking into the gasket in a bad way?
 
even the good blue tape will get nasty if left for too long - don't leave it
AlV said:
Cool Thanks!
I'm thinking the painters tape should go on the lip where the 5 bolts mount. It seems to me like the Center of the dash might distort a bit and sag. should I be concerned about leaving tape there as a possible rust issue?
Click to expand...
 
I did not use the original bolts, I think what I used were less than 3/4" long, but don't remember (Mine were cut up to get it out with windshield in place)
 
all those wires and what-not under the dash - get them organized if you haven't - probably best to use some zip ties (snug but not too tight!) to make bundles.. then when you need to connect a,b,c - snip the tie and off you go
 
The original lower pivot bolts are plenty long enough to back out at least 1/2"!! I also will put just one bolt in the far passenger side hole to be able to access behind the drivers side from the top to hook up the speedo cable and such! Leave the glovebox insert out to hook up the heater box cables if need be, and I'll also leave the radio out until the dash is installed for access around the middle for hooking up heater hoses and the like!!
 
67Dart273 said:
I did not use the original bolts, I think what I used were less than 3/4" long, but don't remember (Mine were cut up to get it out with windshield in place)
Click to expand...

That makes sense... I was going to find what a flat tip alternative.

I guess the bolts are fairly accessible ( probably have to take out the glove box insert to get to the right side of the dash.
 
ScampMike said:
all those wires and what-not under the dash - get them organized if you haven't - probably best to use some zip ties (snug but not too tight!) to make bundles.. then when you need to connect a,b,c - snip the tie and off you go
Click to expand...

Good idea! I redid the dash harness a while back so it's all pretty tidy. I think the biggest part will be accessibility to make connections and rout wires.
 
cosgig said:
The original lower pivot bolts are plenty long enough to back out at least 1/2"!! I also will put just one bolt in the far passenger side hole to be able to access behind the drivers side from the top to hook up the speedo cable and such! Leave the glovebox insert out to hook up the heater box cables if need be, and I'll also leave the radio out until the dash is installed for access around the middle for hooking up heater hoses and the like!!
Click to expand...

Good points Cosgig! I was wondering about reconnecting the heater cabled to the slide on the controller (still kinda am because the bracket set screw is on the bottom!) I was thinking id have to remove the controller to install the cable.

great feedback so far going to definitely keep everything in mind.

Did you notice if the steering column studs needed to be removed prior to installing the dash? Seems like they could get in the way.
 
AlV said:
Good points Cosgig! I was wondering about reconnecting the heater cabled to the slide on the controller (still kinda am because the bracket set screw is on the bottom!) I was thinking id have to remove the controller to install the cable.

great feedback so far going to definitely keep everything in mind.

Did you notice if the steering column studs needed to be removed prior to installing the dash? Seems like they could get in the way.
Click to expand...

1/2 the time the darned stud backs out instead of the nut coming off, but the stud doesn't really get in the way, and most of the time helps if you get the lip of the dash over the studs, it kinda gives you a rest when it hooks the stud, allowing you to regroup for the rest of the heave ho!! I also tighten the pivot bolts first to keep the dash from just falling! It still allows the top to flop away from the flange some so you can see from the top, but will hold it so it doesn't just come crashing back down!!

I too removed the dash from the 66 im working on from the inside, without taking out the windshield! I simply used my cutoff wheel, ground down the points of the screws that were protruding under the dash, and pulled it from the inside! When reinstalling it, I used sheet metal screws ran in from under the dash instead of the factory screws! I also didn't use the original holes because they are enlongated on the flange, I just went next to them and used a couple extra screws! I did the entire job by myself, because nobody ever wants to come out and help!! Darn electronic devises, can't chisel the wife and kids away from them anymore!!!
 
Just a couple of small tips on how factory did it... All the wiring is hooked up but the interior side/half of bulkhead connector is with the dash. If larger portion of wire harness isn't secured at strap by column support the harness is long enough to poke bulkhead member through firewall before dash is rotated fully face up.
Speedo cable is attached at trans but not routed and secured at sheet metal strap under drivers floor area.
So dash assembly is carried in facing down and placed on the 2 long bolts at slotted holes. Speedo cable is now attached to instrument. At some point you'll push extra speedo cable length out though its firewall grommet. Another worker secures it where it belongs. Wire harness secured where it belongs, etc...
Now about those upside down bolt comments... If heater case, drivers side fresh air box and everything else is in place, you cant get those to put them in from the bottom.
At some point you'll need to decide what method to the madness you want to take. Good luck
 
As others said:
Install the lower side bolts first, so the dash can rest and pivot on them

If you don't have a friend there, get a short bungee cord or bailing wire to hold the dash close to the firewall mounts, but out far enough to get your arms behind the dash to connect the heater contra & speedo cables.

Be sure to install the defroster hoses to the dash before tightening it down. Just think how the factory did it.
 
Cosgig, I pulled the steering column studs out just because the came out so easy so I know for sure the won't interfere lol :) You are right, I backed out the pivot bolts and got plenty of space between the washer and the body. I'm pretty sure I am going to do this by myself unless I can break my son away from his computer long enough to help :)

Redfish that is some great info. My Speedo cable is already installed to the Trans and routed and secured. I think I'lll remove the cable from the hold downs to get a little extra slack. The more I look a it I think you're right! with the fresh air boxes in place on both sides plus the heater and AC box I don't see how I could get to those screws.

Does the A-pillar trim go on after the dash is installed? or doesn't it matter?
 
Yes sir, Route the speedo cable as straight as possible to that inst' input. Their attachment is about 2 inches long but regardless, any directional forces the cable applies there will shorten the life of the instrument. Every failed speedometer I ever saw was killed by the cable.
A-pillar trims are easily broken. I pull the roof rail cover down a bit at a-pillar end after removing that 1 screw.
I also remove the first screw at door jamb sill plate and loosen the second and third so kick panel slips under easier. Those little 'U' nuts on the kick panels at sill plates don't want to stay in position.
After dash, install a-pillar trims, reposition roof rail cover, then kick panels. You may have a single chassis ground wire attached with screw behind right kick panel. Double check that.
I'm probably still forgetting something.
 
RedFish said:
Yes sir, Route the speedo cable as straight as possible to that inst' input. Their attachment is about 2 inches long but regardless, any directional forces the cable applies there will shorten the life of the instrument. Every failed speedometer I ever saw was killed by the cable.
A-pillar trims are easily broken. I pull the roof rail cover down a bit at a-pillar end after removing that 1 screw.
I also remove the first screw at door jamb sill plate and loosen the second and third so kick panel slips under easier. Those little 'U' nuts on the kick panels at sill plates don't want to stay in position.
After dash, install a-pillar trims, reposition roof rail cover, then kick panels. You may have a single chassis ground wire attached with screw behind right kick panel. Double check that.
I'm probably still forgetting something.
Click to expand...

I'll pull down the A-Pillars tonight and give it a go.. :)

You mentioned the Single Chassis ground wire behind the kick panel. I have one and awas wondering where that attaches on the dash.
 
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