Dash light won't go out

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JBurch

JBurch

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I know this isn't an "A" body but I need help.

Vehicle is 1999 Durango; the "Brake" light on the instrument panel does not go out, there is NO ABS light lit, scan tool shows no ABS codes. There is no level sensor on the master cylinder, can't find any harness that would hook up if there was one. It is not the parking brake pedal switch, I jumpered around it, no change; it is not the proportioning valve switch, jumpered around it, no change.

What am I missing???

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jim
 
Jim, not an expert, do you know when/what conditions the light came on and how long has it been on? Reason I ask, I recall two different vehicles of mine made in the last century that had to have the computer replaced to turn warning lights off. I figured the error got burned into the memory after being on for too long.
 
Light was on when I got the vehicle, no idea when/how long it's been on.......it's a craigs list blunder, just trying to make the best of it.

Thanks for your input..........doesn't give me a warm feeling
Jim
 
OK, worth a shot, didn't know they had such a thing on board. I'll let you know.

Thanks,

Jim
 
The parking brake and proportioning valve switches supply a ground to turn the light on. Maybe I'm not understanding clearly, but not sure how you'd "jumper around" that. I would try just unplugging the connector from the switches and see if the light then goes out. Could just be a pinched wire somewhere.
 
Some would indicate if a brake bulb was out.
Trailer wiring connector housing,if metal can cause a fault too if its full of corrosion.
I went through something similar years ago.
Not sure if this is the case here.
 
Does the light get brighter when you set the park brake? The light typically comes on when there is a pressure difference between the front and rear hydraulic circuits. If it is on for that reason, it will get brighter when you set the park brake. If not, I would look at the sensor on the park brake pedal as the culprit.
 
leechris81 said:
Does the light get brighter when you set the park brake? The light typically comes on when there is a pressure difference between the front and rear hydraulic circuits. If it is on for that reason, it will get brighter when you set the park brake. If not, I would look at the sensor on the park brake pedal as the culprit.
Click to expand...

I'll try that tomorrow, thanks
 
Garry in AZ said:
The parking brake and proportioning valve switches supply a ground to turn the light on. Maybe I'm not understanding clearly, but not sure how you'd "jumper around" that. I would try just unplugging the connector from the switches and see if the light then goes out. Could just be a pinched wire somewhere.
Click to expand...

I tried open circuit, closed circuit, no change of state on the light.......I'll keep looking
 
Disconnect wires at prop valve and e brake switch. Then test for voltage and short to ground.
 
Garry in AZ said:
The parking brake and proportioning valve switches supply a ground to turn the light on. Maybe I'm not understanding clearly, but not sure how you'd "jumper around" that. I would try just unplugging the connector from the switches and see if the light then goes out. Could just be a pinched wire somewhere.
Click to expand...
I unplugged parking brake switch wire, ran it directly to earth as in jumpering around parking brake switch and no change of state
 
leechris81 said:
Does the light get brighter when you set the park brake? The light typically comes on when there is a pressure difference between the front and rear hydraulic circuits. If it is on for that reason, it will get brighter when you set the park brake. If not, I would look at the sensor on the park brake pedal as the culprit.
Click to expand...

Nope, the light does not get brighter
 
JBurch said:
I unplugged parking brake switch wire, ran it directly to earth as in jumpering around parking brake switch and no change of state
Click to expand...
Unplug both, the e-brake and proportioning valve sensor.
Leave them in the air, not grounded.
Test for voltage at wires
Then test for continuity to ground.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Disconnect wires at prop valve and e brake switch. Then test for voltage and short to ground.
Click to expand...

wires at prop valve, one side goes go to ground bk wire, no power on the other bk/wt; e-brake has no power and wire is not shorted to ground. My Haynes manual does not identify those circuits; gonna look for a regular FSM


The back of my hand has no skin on it from reaching up and removing wire to e-brake switch, as it gets thinner, it's an easier reach
 
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