Dash lights and gauges out

-
The cylinder thing is the condenser. After reading this, I'm REALLY glad I just bought a NOS voltage limiter and condenser from one of our fine members. I think that is what is possibly wrong with my lighting situation.

Sorry but the lower voltage is supplied to gauges only. It has nothing to do with illumination.

A link to my website is in my signature.
I dont use this forum to promote my wares like some ambulance chaser.
 

The round canister is a noise surpressor.

RedFish has the voltage limiter. He can also disable the mechanicle limiter in your gas gauge.

I had him do mine and I'm running his limiter with no issues.

I am as well. Nice unit and simple to install.

You know, NOS is fine, but keep in mind it will also not eliminate any
original design flaws. The technology we have today was not available then.
I am suspect of ANY electrical parts that have been stored for
40 years new or not.
 
After a stint in the Great White North with -26º ambient (-83º with wind chill), I learned to lube speedometer cable with powered graphite. (Good for lock cylinders, too.)

Most electrical shops sell contact cleaner. Radio Shack used to carry the stuff, but I think an old-school electronics shop would be a better source. Use this on the plug and pins on the cluster.

I think the only lights you might want to replace with a different color are those used to illuminate the gauges. (definitely not the turn signal indicators). I changed the gel glued to the back of the speedometer so that I have a blue high beam indicator lamp.

The speedometer head can be lubricated. A little graphite where the flex cable comes into the head. A drop of mineral oil can be put on the odometer gear.

While the cluster is apart, this is a great time to re-paint the gauge needles. I spray a little day-glow orange into the cap, place an index card between the gauge and the needle, then paint with Q-tip.

Looks like the Ammeter is fried judging by the discoloration of the PC board behind the instrument cluster. If car will start but dies when you let go of the key, the Ammeter is bad. By-pass the gauge (by putting both leads on the same post is one way) and the problem should be cured. I fried one by putting an 80 amp alternator on a gauge that was designed to only handle 40 amps. One night the battery had a low charge, I started the car, the ammeter pegged, and poof went the gauge.
 
Looks like the Ammeter is fried judging by the discoloration of the PC board behind the instrument cluster.

Actually, the ammeter was the only gauge that worked! It is by-passed now though.

I am going to buy a multi-meter today and then I'll let Redfish walk me through checking the gauges.
 
chances are good that, if the motor cranks and starts when the key is in start, but dies when the key is released to run position, you have a bad ballast resistor.
 
Where the heck did we get off track and start talking about ballast resistors and firing but not running?!?!? I just have no dash lights and no gauges. Starts and runs like a dream.

I just went and bought a cheap Craftsman multi-meter so I can test the gauges. Redfish, you have PM.
 
Red Fish, this is what I have on testing gauges out of the car.

This is based on trying to check for half scale and full scale based
on a resistance of 20 ohms.

Seem about right to you?

Hope this helps, gotta run for now.

Rallye Gauge Tester.jpg
 
Holy crap! Did I see the theory of relativity in there somewhere??? Someone is going to have to explain in dumbass terms how to check these gauges.
 
Holy crap! Did I see the theory of relativity in there somewhere??? Someone is going to have to explain in dumbass terms how to check these gauges.

LOL sorry. I kind of posted that for Red Fish.

If you want a cheap and dirty way to check and you have the gauges out
of the car, take two AA batteries and stack them up like you do in a
flashlight, take 2 wires that both ends are stripped on and run some
electrical tape around them so you have a wire fastened to the + side
and a wire fastened to the - side. Hook the + to the plus terminal on the
gauge and the minus to the - or ground side of the gauge. Give it a few
seconds and you should see the needle moving.

How's that sound
 
That sounds better, but I do have this brand new multi-meter, and I could probably use it to test the gauges if I just knew how.

And what about testing the voltage limiter? I don't want to spend another $40 on it if it's not bad.
 
The voltage limiter should take 12V in and only output 5V. I'd have to look at
my service manual as far as a different test, but if you put 12V in you should
only get 5V out.

The gauges should read 20 Ohms resistance across the legs so you
can check them with your Ohms meter and see what you get.
 
Did Red Fish get back to you at all on these?
I have a good gas gauge at home, I'll check tonight to see
what resistance I have across mine, but was thinking 20 Ohms was
what they were supposed to be.
 
UPDATE...

I got everything put back together last night. Broke one pin off of the multi-pin connector, and that only effects the right turn indicator light.

Bad news is, this didn't fix **** except I have all of my dash lights now. Temperature gauge just barely comes up to 120, and gas gauge is pegged on empty.

I thought I might have a bad temp sending unit because when I replaced the water pump, the hoses were clogged up with some crap, I don't know what it was. New sending unit didn't help much. Now it goes above 120, but not to the normal range. Thermostat has been replaced and car is getting up to temperature.

I checked the ground strap at the gas tank and even wiggled it back and forth to make sure it was making a good connection. Same with the sending unit wire. I didn't ground the wire or anything to see if the gauge moves. I can do that this afternoon.

HELP!!!!!!
 
I sent a pm, gave my email addy,and bumped.
Dont know what else I can do.
Good luck
 
Spent all day with a house full of friends. Didn't have time to work on the car.

I saved your PM and will send you an email. I appreciate all your help!
 
-
Back
Top Bottom