I have a 74 dodge dart swinger, 2 door, and i have been restoring it, but it is such a hassle because the dash lights dont work so i dont drive it at night...Me and my father have tried alot of different things to try and fix it or find out the problem, We have tried two different headlight switches, looked at some of the steering column wiring and other things, I really would love some advice on what the problem might be...the strange thing is...the check oil light works and the gauges all work and high-beam indicator also works and the turn signal indicators, the headlights are in working condition too, please help, I would love to have this problem fixed, any opinions help.
Dash Lights Problem! Help!
- Thread starter 74dart
- Start date
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Have you checked the bulbs behind the cluster? Indicator lamps (high beam, blinker, oil etc) and dash lights use dif bulbs. Does your lights on radio work? If they work then your switch is probably good. When you replace them use leds they wont blow again. superbrightleds.com
I beleive the bulbs are 194 style.
I would pull the cluster and check all the bulbs behind it. It is easier to pull if you lower the steering column.
I too have a dark dash...only one bulb works on mine...I replaced them a worked good for awhile and blew again....I just haven't gotten around to replacing again.. next time I will use leds. The bulbs get hot in the cluster.
Heat=Resistance=more heat=more resistance=blown
I would pull the cluster and check all the bulbs behind it. It is easier to pull if you lower the steering column.
I too have a dark dash...only one bulb works on mine...I replaced them a worked good for awhile and blew again....I just haven't gotten around to replacing again.. next time I will use leds. The bulbs get hot in the cluster.
Heat=Resistance=more heat=more resistance=blown
The problem may be lack of power. First you need a good 12 volt supply to the headlight switch. Then a good connection through that switch and on to the fusebox. Then through the fuse to the panel harness connecter. In a nut shell, its a cluttered current path with lots of places for voltage drop.
Bare with me. Coffee just now kicking in. C\_/
Take a test light to your fuse box and hunt a fuse that doesn't have power on either end unless the headlight switch is pulled on to atleast one click ( park lamp position ). Once the headlight switch is on that fuse should show power on both ends. If not, put in a new fuse. If the new fuse blows soon as the headlight switch is on again, we'll need to find whats blowing it. We will too, always do. Hope this helps
Take a test light to your fuse box and hunt a fuse that doesn't have power on either end unless the headlight switch is pulled on to atleast one click ( park lamp position ). Once the headlight switch is on that fuse should show power on both ends. If not, put in a new fuse. If the new fuse blows soon as the headlight switch is on again, we'll need to find whats blowing it. We will too, always do. Hope this helps
well, I have a fuse that burns out when i turn the headlight switch(to boost the brightness of the lights i do believe) but this blows the fuse and makes the amp gauge drop quite a bit...not sure if that has a connection with the lights, im thinking they are burnt out lights now
rp23g7
Well-Known Member
I had the same issue on the Scamp, Do your tail lights work? I think they are on the same circuit.
I had a bare wire for the radio that would short out on the dash untill i found it. it would blow the tail lights and the dash lights, but the signals, oil, high beam indicator would still work.
Check for a ground in the tail light circuit.
I had a bare wire for the radio that would short out on the dash untill i found it. it would blow the tail lights and the dash lights, but the signals, oil, high beam indicator would still work.
Check for a ground in the tail light circuit.
He had said he tried two different headlight switches. (in original post) I assumed he had already checked fuses and wiring. So I suggested bulbs.
But if you circuit is no good....then bulbs wont make a difference.
Let us know what you found.
what burns the fuse out is turning the domelight switch on...
The oil lamp light, highbeam light and turn signals are as bright as i could ask for, just my dash lights dont work...
all my pins are there on the back of the console
does anyone have a wiring diagram or tell me how to track down the wire if there is a short
also, my gear select indicator light doesnt work either...maybe this is hooked to it?
The oil lamp light, highbeam light and turn signals are as bright as i could ask for, just my dash lights dont work...
all my pins are there on the back of the console
does anyone have a wiring diagram or tell me how to track down the wire if there is a short
also, my gear select indicator light doesnt work either...maybe this is hooked to it?
ok so theoreticly you could remove the domelamp bulb and close the doors, and install a new fuse and have dash lights ?
The shift indicater lamp is on the same fuse. Thats why I asked about the ignition switch. There are a bunch of chineese aftermarket switches that are wired wrong. Thats why i asked about that switch first.
Now also on the same circuit are the climate contoller lamp, the ashtray lamp, the lamp in the original radio, glovebox lamp, and trunk lamp. Not all of them are wired through the dimmer reostat om the headlight switch.
Because there are so many ( mostly orange ) wires that can blow theat fuse we need to take a systematic approach.
If you are sure the problem isn't a chineese ignition switch the second place to go would be your aftermarket jukebox. We need to know what you did with the orange wire that went to the original radio.
The shift indicater lamp is on the same fuse. Thats why I asked about the ignition switch. There are a bunch of chineese aftermarket switches that are wired wrong. Thats why i asked about that switch first.
Now also on the same circuit are the climate contoller lamp, the ashtray lamp, the lamp in the original radio, glovebox lamp, and trunk lamp. Not all of them are wired through the dimmer reostat om the headlight switch.
Because there are so many ( mostly orange ) wires that can blow theat fuse we need to take a systematic approach.
If you are sure the problem isn't a chineese ignition switch the second place to go would be your aftermarket jukebox. We need to know what you did with the orange wire that went to the original radio.
cudajim
cudajim
If you're blowing a fuse you're pulling way too much current, probably due to a short to ground. You have to find that problem first. Get your schematic out and trace everything on that leg of the circuit. You'll probably find the radio light wire or some other lamp socket is not quite right.
So I checked it out today, this is what I found, I had a very strange wire connected to my ash trash wire
So the red plug thing right there was connected to the real ash tray wire and the outlet below was connected to my ash tray, when it should not have been...and this wire has no power at all, Im not sure what it even goes to or how it gets power.
and it looks like this pink wire goes to this below, that isnt the directional flasher or emergency flasher...i would love it if someone could explaine what it is.
So here(below) is the wiring all pulled down and we figured that it has to be the ignition switch because of alot of the wires not having power, which i will state later, and Im wondering if you all think its the same thing?
Ignition switch harness
Color of wire-- Key On-- Acc, on
white-------- no power-- no power
Brown------- no power-- no power
Dark Green--- no power-- no power
red------ power(flashes)- power(flashes)
Pink----- power(flashes)- power(flashes)
tan ----- no power------ no power
Lt. Green- no power----- no power
black(horn)- power ------- power
Harness From column to main harness
Color------- Key On----- Key off---- Acc on
Lrg Yellow--- none ------- none-------- none
Lrg Black --- power------- none-------- power
Lrg Blue ---- power -------none-------- none
Lrg Brown--- power -------none-------- none
Lrg Red----- power------- power------- power
Sml Orange-- none ------- none------- none(no power with Lt Switch on)
Sml Red -----none-------- none------- none
Sml Red----- none-------- none------- none
So the red plug thing right there was connected to the real ash tray wire and the outlet below was connected to my ash tray, when it should not have been...and this wire has no power at all, Im not sure what it even goes to or how it gets power.
and it looks like this pink wire goes to this below, that isnt the directional flasher or emergency flasher...i would love it if someone could explaine what it is.
So here(below) is the wiring all pulled down and we figured that it has to be the ignition switch because of alot of the wires not having power, which i will state later, and Im wondering if you all think its the same thing?
Ignition switch harness
Color of wire-- Key On-- Acc, on
white-------- no power-- no power
Brown------- no power-- no power
Dark Green--- no power-- no power
red------ power(flashes)- power(flashes)
Pink----- power(flashes)- power(flashes)
tan ----- no power------ no power
Lt. Green- no power----- no power
black(horn)- power ------- power
Harness From column to main harness
Color------- Key On----- Key off---- Acc on
Lrg Yellow--- none ------- none-------- none
Lrg Black --- power------- none-------- power
Lrg Blue ---- power -------none-------- none
Lrg Brown--- power -------none-------- none
Lrg Red----- power------- power------- power
Sml Orange-- none ------- none------- none(no power with Lt Switch on)
Sml Red -----none-------- none------- none
Sml Red----- none-------- none------- none
No astray wire but the large pink wire went to the cig lighter well.
There should be an orange there also if you have the ashtray lamp.
Anyway those pink wires should be hot at all times. The round can with 2 pinks and 2 yellows ? , Probably the hazard flasher.
" power (flashes) " in your report at red and pink ? That means blinking the test light or what ?
The orange wire comming down out of the column goes to the shifte indicater bub.
Yellow in the switch harness wasn't reported . Thats the start signal in the start position.
There should be an orange there also if you have the ashtray lamp.
Anyway those pink wires should be hot at all times. The round can with 2 pinks and 2 yellows ? , Probably the hazard flasher.
" power (flashes) " in your report at red and pink ? That means blinking the test light or what ?
The orange wire comming down out of the column goes to the shifte indicater bub.
Yellow in the switch harness wasn't reported . Thats the start signal in the start position.
The 74 model had a one year only seatbelt interlock also. It would prevent the car from starting . Can we all say GRRRRrrrrrrrrr
If somebody has been in there and hooked something crosseyed in there to bypass that interlock,
You may not get it sorted without the wiring diagrams. A 72 manual id close as I have.
If somebody has been in there and hooked something crosseyed in there to bypass that interlock,
You may not get it sorted without the wiring diagrams. A 72 manual id close as I have.
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