Dash paint - gloss level

-
E

E55D21

HOB230933
Joined
Dec 11, 2004
Messages
42
Reaction score
4
Location
SE. Michigan
Can anyone advise me on what is the proper gloss level of "black paint' for the dash in a 1970 Duster... It's due for a repaint and I don't know what gloss level of paint to get. Currently it's almost "flat" but that could be from years of sun bleaching... The drivers and passenger doors are currently a gloss black..

Any advise and or photo's would be appreciated...
 
I would go with semi-gloss for the black. I think that is what they used, flat black was possible too but would be harder to clean the dust off. Gloss just seems too shiney.
 
It's a flat suede finish on the dash. Gloss would glare on the windshield.
 
I use SEM trim black, Perfect color match. Wish it had a little more texture though.
 
AdamR said:
I use SEM trim black, Perfect color match. Wish it had a little more texture though.
Click to expand...

Same paint I used Adam.
To get the texture, I kept the HVLP gun about two feet from the dash, and just "misted" the paint on. Matched the original paint almost perfectly. I didn the steering column the same way.

The SEM trim black color is a DEAD ringer color wise.

George
 
E55D21 said:
Can anyone advise me on what is the proper gloss level of "black paint' for the dash in a 1970 Duster... It's due for a repaint and I don't know what gloss level of paint to get. Currently it's almost "flat" but that could be from years of sun bleaching... The drivers and passenger doors are currently a gloss black..

Any advise and or photo's would be appreciated...
Click to expand...

My Duster is original and the dash is flat .. door panels are gloss
 
Dennis, as in my PM the dash was done in satin black and the doors were done in gloss black. I forgot to mention that the steering column was done in a third color of black. It was more of a semigloss black. That's the way mine was delivered from the factory.

DSC00125 (Small).JPG
 
Personally, when I re-did mine I used good old Krylon semi-gloss sprayed on from a good distance to give it texture. For the amount of exposed sheet metal it looks great! And was very in-expensive to boot.
CarStuff072-vi.jpg


Of course, your finished top coat is only as good as your preparation. Sand smooth, prime, sand smooth, prime, sand smooth, paint.
Barracuda303-vi.jpg


I know it's low-rent, but it works....
Barracuda336-vi.jpg


No need to make things more difficult than they already are.... :-D
 
FASTBACK340 said:
Personally, when I re-did mine I used good old Krylon semi-gloss sprayed on from a good distance to give it texture. For the amount of exposed sheet metal it looks great! And was very in-expensive to boot.
When I bought some dash paint from Totally Auto yeas ago, this was the method they suggested to get the proper texture and to flatten up the paint. The same semi gloss can be used for a glossier appearance on grills and columns by spraying the paint closer and applying it wetter.
Click to expand...
 
I sprayed my steering column with the same paint, but at a closer distance for a nice satin sheen. Works for me!

Barracuda373-vi.jpg
 
FASTBACK340 said:
Of course, your finished top coat is only as good as your preparation. Sand smooth, prime, sand smooth, prime, sand smooth, paint.[/FONT]
Barracuda303-vi.jpg
Click to expand...

Where are you getting the rivets to replace the VIN tag? Is there a special tool used for them?

I haven't starting redoing my dash yet because I don't know where to get them.
 
Dusteriffic said:
Where are you getting the rivets to replace the VIN tag? Is there a special tool used for them?

I haven't starting redoing my dash yet because I don't know where to get them.
Click to expand...


Here's a piece of advice: Grind off the back of the rivets, restore the dash, and epoxy everything back together when your done.

I spent a LARGE chunk of cash last year on my car and the one purchase that really burned my tail (besides dropping $1,300 for a TTI exhaust.... WITHOUT mufflers.) was buying a pair of VIN rivets. Those 2 little correct rivets cost me $35 when I finally found a set for sale! They pop up from time to time and the prices vary greatly. The set I bought I found over at MoParts.Com. One of the board members there had some for sale.

Cut the buggers off from the back. Trust me...
 
FASTBACK340 said:
Here's a piece of advice: Grind off the back of the rivets, restore the dash, and epoxy everything back together when your done.

I spent a LARGE chunk of cash last year on my car and the one purchase that really burned my tail (besides dropping $1,300 for a TTI exhaust.... WITHOUT mufflers.) was buying a pair of VIN rivets. Those 2 little correct rivets cost me $35 when I finally found a set for sale! They pop up from time to time and the prices vary greatly. The set I bought I found over at MoParts.Com. One of the board members there had some for sale.

Cut the buggers off from the back. Trust me...
Click to expand...

These are the type of low-buck suggestions that are much appreciated.
 
Dusteriffic said:
These are the type of low-buck suggestions that are much appreciated.
Click to expand...


That $35 you save on VIN rivets your going to spend anyway. Might as well get the most for your money as you can! The $35 will more than cover the cost of paint stripper, sandable primer, sandpaper, and semi-gloss paint to do the dash!

Good luck Dude! 8)
 
Yea grind off from the back. The PO for my car trying to fixe/paint the dash while it was still in the car. ground off VIN plate from the top. Not sure what he used or even why he done it. Now I have to dash out and trying to get it back together before the sherriff comes to verify the VIN for my title.
 
hehe 35 bucks for 2 pop rivets. I make those from a round top rivet. I use a 6mm socket ground sharp and a hammer to cut them hex.
 
RedFish said:
hehe 35 bucks for 2 pop rivets. I make those from a round top rivet. I use a 6mm socket ground sharp and a hammer to cut them hex.
Click to expand...


Yeah, but it's not a hex, it's a rosette shape...similar to flower petals. And besides, there's enough people in this hobby just LOOKING for in-accuracies. My car IS an original P code 340-S and I don't want anyone disaggreeing that it's not because of the VIN rivets.

I'm all for spending as wisely as possible in this hobby, but something like the VIN rivets are hard to fake. ESPECIALLY with all the "experts" we have trolling message boards and shows these days.... although it annoyed me no end paying that much for rivets, it's the importance of those rivets that made me do it.
 
RedFish said:
hehe 35 bucks for 2 pop rivets. I make those from a round top rivet. I use a 6mm socket ground sharp and a hammer to cut them hex.
Click to expand...
Take a pic of your before n after Vin rivets you make.
I’m still searching for the manufacture that makes these Rosette Vin Rivets. I want to buy them by the box n pass them along to my Mopar friends
Happy Moparing
 
FASTBACK340 said:
That $35 you save on VIN rivets your going to spend anyway. Might as well get the most for your money as you can! The $35 will more than cover the cost of paint stripper, sandable primer, sandpaper, and semi-gloss paint to do the dash!

Good luck Dude! 8)
Click to expand...
The VIN Rosette rivets are now on Amazon $10 a pair
 
FASTBACK340 said:
Yeah, but it's not a hex, it's a rosette shape...similar to flower petals. And besides, there's enough people in this hobby just LOOKING for in-accuracies. My car IS an original P code 340-S and I don't want anyone disaggreeing that it's not because of the VIN rivets.

I'm all for spending as wisely as possible in this hobby, but something like the VIN rivets are hard to fake. ESPECIALLY with all the "experts" we have trolling message boards and shows these days.... although it annoyed me no end paying that much for rivets, it's the importance of those rivets that made me do it.
Click to expand...
with the numbers on the motor/radiator support / trunk lip/build sheet and fender tag makes rosette rivets for the vin tag moot. Id be more scrutinizing on the missing fender tag !!!! even those are being reproduced.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top