Don’t forget duct tape!
Oh goodness. lolChicken wire, fiberglass, and bondo.
That is what the PO would have done.Chicken wire, fiberglass, and bondo.
Watch out for late '90's Firechickens. My ex's mom had one. She got home from work one day, got out of the car, and couldn't figure out where the door skin went.That's the word on the street. New cars use it and I don't see sheet metal layin in the road from parts fallin off.
From what I remember when searching, it's pretty hard to get. I believe 72 is a one year only and they are not reproduced. The cost on the reproductions is Ridiculous anyway. I needed on because I had cut my opening just slightly larger for a cassette stereo back in the day and went back to a stock am/fm Mono. Good luck locating a nice one but I agree, that's your best option.How hard is it to find those parts?
And looking under the radio, I see metal that is wasted on mine.
You might..........Should I go look in my parts stash ?
This one sold, but it states the seller has relisted it.I can not find it on ebay.
Do you have a link?
CLICK ON THE HIGHLIGHTED AREA THAT READS RELIST.I can not find it on ebay.
Do you have a link?
I had to look and see if Mr. No-Weld was back.Chicken wire, fiberglass, and bondo.
Someone said this before. But mentioned you have to treat the metal first.Chicken wire, fiberglass, and bondo.
Hey, I rebuilt all the blown fuses with name brand Renolds Wrap foil. I could have used generic.That is what the PO would have done.
If he wasn't so lazy.
THAT ^^ is a proper fix. Only thing I’ll add is that you can use ceramic back up bar available at any welding supply house. Usually cheaper than copper.That is an easy fix. Buy a replacement plate if you can, and make one with the same gauge metal if you cant. Cut and trim metal until you have a nice fit with about a 1/32" gap all the way around. Then, using magnets (that is how I do it) to hold the patch in place, place a few tacks to hold the patch in place while holding a copper plate behind the weld. That will keep the weld flat on the backside. Weld will not stick to copper. Then, go around the patch welding a single tack about every 2". Every time you go all the way around, give the area time to cool off before placing more tacks. Eventually you will get it all done. Don't get anxious to finish and through in some stitch welds. Too much heat and a good chance of warping Plus, use the copper plate for all welds. That way the backside will be flat and no grinding will be required. You will have to grind the front side flat. The copper plate I am talking about is available at Harbor Freight. The copper part is about 3" x 4" and it has a handle. IT comes in very handy,
Yes it would cover most of the issue.All kidding aside won't the deluxe plastic panels cover the mess up, so just weld the dash back good and cosmetic cover it with the plastic wood grain to keep from doing body work?
Thanks Barney.This one sold, but it states the seller has relisted it.
Hi wolfie
JUST CLICK ON WHERE THE HIGHLIGHTED AREA THAT SHOWS RELIST. IT WILL TAKE YOU TO THE NEW LISTING
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This listing sold on Sun, Oct 12 at 6:40 PM. The seller has relisted this item or one like this.
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DIN to Shaft & Knob Style Radio Dash Panel Repair Restoration Plate or Faceplate
CLICK ON THE HIGHLIGHTED AREA THAT READS RELIST.
As it turns out, the copper welding spoons have tripled in price since I bought mine. Still very worthwhile to have. I use mine a lot. They are great for filling in small holes too. I'll have to look into the ceramic one. Thanks for the tip!THAT ^^ is a proper fix. Only thing I’ll add is that you can use ceramic back up bar available at any welding supply house. Usually cheaper than copper.