Dead stopped - steering couplier

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grassy

grassy

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Folks, we are dead in the water and I don't want to do the brut force thing..

The little chrome tube will not move as it is....we have used various intruments to try to punch the chrome tube through but it doesn't want to move...not sure if we are going in the right direction so here are some pics ..I home they are not too bad..we are so close to dropping the front suspension..

ian.

HPIM6987b-L.jpg


HPIM6986a-L.jpg


HPIM6989d-L.jpg


HPIM6988c-L.jpg
 
Try some PB Blaster over night and call me in the morning..LOL Try some heat on the pin location if that doesn't work. Be careful!!!
 
It's a split pin and it will move with the right diameter punch and a large hammer. The pins diameter changes slightly as its split opens and closes. It my have an attitude problem due to wear.
You could also turn the wheel 180 degrees and try driving it out the other direction. Just remember to bring it back to center before separating.
 
OK.

I have heat but not ox/acct..just a warmer version of the normal soldering torch. How much heat should apply ?

I am loath to wack it really hard but it sounds like that is what is required. Darn.

Thanks
ian.
 
Remember the Dodge commercial that said "HIT IT" ?
If that pin is broken bent, cracked, any damage at all , go to the hardware store and buy a new one.
 
It will move you do need the right size HD punch, and a big ball peen hammer
 
Yeah, it is a tapered roll pin. I used a punch on an air chisel... Work it one way, turn it over and work it the other way, repeat until it comes out. If it is damaged when it comes out, replace it.
 
Like everyone above has said, a good penetrating oil, the right size punch and someone holding the steering wheel.
 
wjaholic said:
Yeah, it is a tapered roll pin. I used a punch on an air chisel... Work it one way, turn it over and work it the other way, repeat until it comes out. If it is damaged when it comes out, replace it.
Click to expand...

Its not a tapered roll pin. That is a completely different animal. You'll find one of those through the upper end of the steering column iif its a locking column. Tapered pins are solid and will drive in/out only one way.
 
OK all good advice above...TRY this

SPRAY it with pb blaster OR really ANY penetrating oil they all work about the same ... soak it pretty good and leave it sit for a while......

then gather these tools a punch that is a lil larger than the pin another punch that is pretty much the same size... A pretty good sized ball peen hammer....and a propane torch....and at least two vice grips that will fit on the coupling at the steering shaft side.

turn the wheel one way so the pin is facing the sky...use the larger punch and give it a couple of stern whacks spray a lil more penetrating oil and turn the wheel 180 so the other side of the pin is facing the sky using the larger punch
give it a couple of stern whacks...

repeat this process a few times each time spraying the penetrating oil

now get out the punch that is the same size and the torch and the vice grips..... about midships up the coupling grip on a couple of vice grips all facing in different directions like a sunburst....

you shoud still be able to turn the wheel 180 with the grips in place... if not, its ok to remove them and re-install after the 180 turn. grab a couple of wet rags and a fire extinguisher ....light the torch have your hammer & same size punch close..... concentrate the heat right at the pin and the collar that it sits in......keep the torch on it for quite a few mins shut the torch off place the punch on the roll pin and give it a few seriously stern whacks.... I am guessing it will move...maybe not a bunch but some and that is a good start.....
spin the wheel 180 and do the same thing...get it pretty hot and give that pin a few seriously stern whacks .....likely it will move further than the first set....if it moves good keep hitting and see if you can drive out.......if it stops! this is not bad thing just a bump in the road.....spin the wheel 180 again and this time grab some emery cloth sand paper works too just a lil more foolin around with paper.....let the whole mess cool off 10 -15 mins so you can touch it wihtout burning the crap out of your fingers.......take the cloth or paper and super clean the part of the PIN that is stickin out clean it until it is brite silver....spraya gooly amount of penetrant and flip the wheel 180 give the penetrant a few mins to blot down....light the torch and concentrate the flam on the collar that the pin sits in....get it as hot as you can...turn off the torch and use the same size punch and start whackin...... this will likely take it out...is it does not.... repeat until it does...this DOES work!! but depending on how corroded the pin or the hole the difficulty goes up as does the repetitions of the above process......
good luck...this will remove the pin.....OH ya the vice grips act as a heat sink so you dont boil the grease inside or melt the rubber at the top!!
GO GET IT bro
 
If your unwilling to hit it hard with a hammer, drill it out the roll pin is a soft metal and will drill easy. Just keep the drill bit straight and a little smaller than the pins hole. The remaining peaces will just fall out or push out easily.
 
PS this is a ROLLPIN and it HAS NO TAPER!! so it can come out either side.... it is held in place because it is a "press fit" the pin is actually LARGER diameter than the hole but the split allows it to collapse enough to squeeze into the hole, the camphor ends help get it started....

again good luck
 
69BBDart said:
If your unwilling to hit it hard with a hammer, drill it out the roll pin is a soft metal and will drill easy. Just keep the drill bit straight and a little smaller than the pins hole. The remaining peaces will just fall out or push out easily.
Click to expand...

Uh, NO!! Roll pins are hard and do not drill well. They are "spring steel."

If you cannot get the pin out "no matter what" just pry the top of the coupler off and yank the column out. It's not that big 'a' deal.

I'm not sure heat will help. You need a BFH. (Big Freeking Hammer) If you cannot keep it from turning, clamp it some way, vise grips, clamp, etc.


Use a punch that "won't spring." That is a punch which tapers up into a much larger, heavier "handle."

And try turning it 180*. the pin is NOT tapered and will come out either direction.
 
I found I had really good luck with a roll pin punch. Got it from Lowe's.

No luck at all with a regular one. They are typically harder than hammered hell, so I wouldn't try drilling if you had any other options.

Steve
 
you have to push it out from the right side, the side thats recessed more is where you place yer punch and then smack it with a 2 lb sledge.

Thats how you do it, hit it harder and from the right side.....

the reason is age for one 'rust/corrosion built up around the exposed end, and for two...it was an interference fit to begin with, so the pin is already slightly memory'd from the original install, plus they do have starting end from what have seen-shaved on one edge to start it..

JMO and how I do it with success.
 
make sure you use a flat ended pin punch, not a tapered center punch. A center punch will just spread the end out and make it tighter in the hole. you have to have a punch the same size as the hole or REAL close to it.
 
69B-Cuda said:
make sure you use a flat ended pin punch, not a tapered center punch. A center punch will just spread the end out and make it tighter in the hole. you have to have a punch the same size as the hole or REAL close to it.
Click to expand...

exactly, not a punch to set the drill bit...but one to cover the pin diameter and not spread it.
 
You can also use a good hard (I think?) 5/16 bolt. Grind the end of the bolt "flat."
 
Folks..sorry about being off line..the computer has really been acting up and I down't want to rebuild it until it gets cold outside again.

I was following 66cuda's instructions but I couldn't find a punch that would fit. So after blasting the heck out of it with PB and letting it sit over night I took a spike and started grinding it down.

Got the blow torch our and readied the vise grips.

Then I took out my BFH with the spike and hit it with attitude and the bugger moved. The rest is history. My experience has been if you come at a part too hard, you tend to regret it.

I think redfish is right..sometimes ya just gotta 'hit it" ..or as for my truck..if ya cant dodge it, ram it..

here is a pick of my spike..

HPIM6997aa-L.jpg
 
im pretty sure the coupler has a stop in it, the pin only goes in and is removed from one side.
 
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