Demon Clone Project

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Very nice, looks great! i had the same problem with my sandblaster..i was very cranky too lol.
 
Here's the test fit with the frame secured with screws at the inner fenders. For unkown reason the rear frame had to be spaced up by 1/2 inch for all the other elevations to line up. This made me uncertain about the final fit but on the first try the fenders match up nicely.

I used measurements from the firewall just above the upper seam to each side of the front rad support in an x pattern and longitudinally to set the front to back position.

If I were doing it again I'd use points at the front and rear of the rockers rather than the closely spaced supports I have at the front of the rockers. I would not rely on the rear frame since what matters is alignment with the "cockpit". I would also cut wood angles to fit the rocker angles to make a level area for jack stand supports.
 

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Idaho said:
Might have to save that one good quarter before it goes to it's grave.
Click to expand...


Might want to save the trunk lid, bumper, taillights, and rear end also. Lot of good parts there, but like you said....costly to ship.
 
ive found a lot of oddities between the different year models of a-bodies. like floorpans that are different depths. just wierd stuff.

if it were me and my car, id line up the fenders. takke that 1,2 inch gap on the rear of the front subframe, and weld in a filler pamel there. tie the front and rear subframes together, and make it as strong as i could.
id also stitch weld the entire car while i was at it. somethinng i WISH i had done to mine when i was building it.

looking great, though. keep it up man.

michael
 
Thanks for the positive feedback. One thing that lurks in the back of my mind is reading stuff about how the A bodies bend and sag up front. I hope things still line up with the powertrain in place.

The gap will get filled in along with capping the front of the frame members. Not sure I'll stitch weld everything, but the frame will certainly be welded in better than factory. I think I've seen some other type of structural enhancements up front with gussets or whatever but not sure on that yet. I think I'll post a question in a new thread. I don't really want to get elaborate with the tubing type reinforcements.

Doing this project draws my attention to the structural nature of the inner fenders in support of the front frame. I'm not sure how the cars cut for headers stay straight.

One thing I forgot to mention, the Duster being a 340 car has the torque boxes. I had to remove the front ones for the install. Mostly done with a sawzall. They will be repaired and welded back in.
 
great work. that duster really took a hit. i think once you get it back on the ground and the engine in it, there will be plenty of room for adjustment when lining up your fenders and doors etc. i have found that these cars are pretty forgiving when it comes to making adjustments. keep up the great work
 
After the test fit the frame was removed and prepped by removal of primer from areas to be welded.

The rockers were damaged during frame removal since I could not get a spot weld cutter into the area. Patch panels were plug welded and partly perimeter welded. Since the rockers are structural I tried to limit long weld lines except on the lower edge along the rocker seam.

The frame was re-installed and another test fit performed, then welded in place. The welding to the rockers is partial (not shown), just enough to hold together on the rotisserie. It will all be sandblasted and then the welds completed in an easier welding position.
 

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Lookin' good. I am hoping not, but thinkin' I may have to do the same process. You are definitely doing a good job on your clone. :thumleft::thumleft:
 
That is the 340 car you are fixing right? I applaud your drive for fixing the car no matter what engine it came with. One more saved A-body out there now. Lovin the build so far. And by the way don't be affraid to post ALOT of pics. I know there is another member that is going to be doing this to his Cuda soon and pics could help him out a bunch. Plus I like to see pics while over here.
 
dusted72 said:
That is the 340 car you are fixing right? I applaud your drive for fixing the car no matter what engine it came with. One more saved A-body out there now. Lovin the build so far. And by the way don't be affraid to post ALOT of pics. I know there is another member that is going to be doing this to his Cuda soon and pics could help him out a bunch. Plus I like to see pics while over here.
Click to expand...

Yes, its a '73 340 4 speed car with folding rear seat. I considered restoring it to original but its just not what I wanted.

After a fair bit of work I'm about where most people start with a project but I'm having fun doing it and haven't spent a lot of money. I've seen a few start with worse.

I've read some of your posts on the other site when I was researching. Can't recall what they were about...

Gdrill, if you wind up doing this, talk to me as I could do it a lot faster the second time around. I spent a lot of time just looking at it and thinking...
Lining things up isn't as big a deal as I made it into.
 
I've only had bits of time for the project. Too much landscaping etc. I did get it almost sandblasted (rain stalled me). I built a pto driven compressor for my tractor, teed with my shop unit and the blasting goes MUCH faster.

Now I'm working on wheel & tire fitment and tubbing. After much obsession, I decided to go big - 20" rims, low and tucked. I have not yet seen a Duster or Demon on 20s. I borrowed a 20" truck wheel with 275/45/20 and was captivated by the test look so my mind was made up. I'll step down a little to 275/40 since I'm tight on the quarter front and back. Many will hate the big wheels but so be it.

The first pic is crammed down as far as it goes with the original wheelwell. Then I got out the plasma cutter. I want the wheel out as far as possible so the whole inner well had to go. As you can see I took it out in pieces to save the brace pieces. Theres some under there you can't see until you get cutting.

On the inside you can see before and after removing the folding seat support, and trunk support, and the tire resting on the metal that was attached to the well seam.

The last pic is in that position from the outside. It has about 7 1/2" ground clearance to the rear frame. I'd love to make that the final ride height but am not sure if that's enough ground clearance. I'm also not sure how much room I need for suspension travel. Maybe 3"? Hoping some who know will chime in here.

Perhaps a new thread with those questions is in order.
 

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Idaho, you were asking me before about how tall of wheel wells. I did not measure mine (factory height), but I would think that if you rounded the top of he wheel well where the factory tubs flatten out, it will probably be enough room. With those tubs I sold you, they will round out the top easily.

rjsjea, has his wheels tucked up there real nice and he only raised the tubs 2" (about the same as rounding out the top)
 
I think you are right. I'll likely try for a practical approach, make them as tall as I can without destroying the trunk lid spring and set up the rear suspension to make it work. The tubs are not wide enough to go from fender to frame rail but I can extend them.

rjsjea has a triangualted 4 link. I believe that would limit his rear travel to less that a leaf spring setup. Perhaps I will need to stiffen up the springs with an extra leaf or custom springs. Maybe a sway bar may help too.

I was reading about bump stops as well. They make progressive stops that could be used as well. I can't find anything specific about leaf spring travel. I think I'll use the Dart Sport I have for parts to get an idea, measuring distance between the diff and bump stops.

I'm leaving town for a short vacation to the Oregon coast so it'll have to wait.
 
Bad news: the Demon clone project is being moth-balled.
Good news: I've purchased a 69 Dart for a pro-touring style build (perhaps as others have done I should call it an amateur touring build.

The reason is described in this thread.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=196797

Basically I found I would need major frame work to get the rear down where I want, it's easier to do with the Dart, and my wife likes the Dart body better. Who am I to argue?

I could not just let the Duster rust so I finished sandblasting and coated it with epoxy primer. I doubt I'd get much trying to sell it so I'll just store it for now and perhaps do a project for my daughter down the road. Seems crazy I know, but all this car building stuff is kinda crazy when you think about it. I haven't spent much but time, and I've enjoyed the challenge of splicing a front clip.

I'll be starting a new thread for the Dart.

BTW: Ever smelled moth balls? (scroll down)
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If you have, how'd you get their little legs apart?
 

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dang, nice work.. might want to consider a "full tub".. if you want it to sit real low.. in order to fit my 325s and have it sit real low i went with full tubs.. i used a 32 inch tub and was able to keep my back seat.. the reason being the outer wheel house flares inward so soon that its hard to get a tire to fit and sit low..
 
The wheel wells were completely cut out for a full tub. When I get back to it I intend to put a U splice in the frame to get the rear down. Your pic look like you'll be molding the rear. Are you doing a back half?

JR, a thread on the dart is coming soon. Almost done putting Caddy CTS seats in it.
 
I am changing my car as well. I am picking up a 70 Dart on Saturday. Good luck on the Frog Princess, I will be watching.
 
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