Denso Alternator Installation

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mullinax95 said:
More than likely o1heavy that will be the case. One thing that I don't understand is if I remember correctly my stock mopar alt is a 75 amp. So how does the 60 amp Denso work better than a 75 amp... the sense wire?

Also I have March pulleys and I'm not sure how easy it will be press my pulley off the stock mopar and then install it on the Denso. I had to use Locktite press fit compound when I pressed the pully on. It is a long story but that's where I'm at on that. lol That's another thing against me is the March pulleys but I want serpentine belt system.


Update: yeah I think Im screwed having the March pulleys and expecting the pulley to fit the Denso alt.
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The denso reacts much better at idle...mine at idle with two fans and electric water pump reads about 12 volts at 900 rpm...here's my amp draws

Okay here we go with the amp readings...zero it out then 1 mv equals 1 amp

Amp tested HHR fan first....zeroed out...

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HHr fan....sixty bucks 2700 cfm and 14.1 amps

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Mezziere 35 gpm electric water pump they say 6 to 7 amps..I got 8.3 amps..may be because it was dead heading against the thermostat...
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IMG00457-20100717-1058.jpg


my little permacool fan on my tranny cooler...1.7 amps

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so I have the 78 big alternator now and it does not do the job at idle...two or three trips to the weekend meet and I had a dead battery...I am going to bypass the amp meter and a run an 8 guage wire straight to the battery with a fuse of course..
 
I've got the same kit, I bough a 140amp alt. for a '90 toyota. Then I bought the kit from somebody in washington state but I don't remember... haven't tried it out yet but I hope to soon. After I get the car up and running, I want to cover the harness with PowerBraid from painless wiring. Looks alot nicer than that plastic wire loom.

Glad to read this kit works...thanks for posting

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Well fellows I installed the Mopar "race only" voltage regulator yesterday.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690731/

I cranked the car up, ran it until the temperature got up to normal and cut the head lights on. I basically was trying to get the car in the same conditions as it was the other night when I noticed my tail lights, inside lights, etc.... was flickering.

No more flickering!!

I checked the voltage at the alternator and it never fell below 13.5 of course but it never was very stable at idle. I'm thinking because of the cam. I should have checked the voltage at the battery in which it is the trunk. I will next time to see what the difference is at the alt and the battery. I assume there will be some loss in voltage by the time it gets to the battery.
 
See thats the problem, The guys who have all these electrical upgrades, but old stock wiring like me. I have HIDS, MSD, Gauges and Im adding Electric fans. I want to get a better Alt. maybe even the denso since its smaller and lighter than the stock higher amp one, but I have to worry about the stock wiring dont I ? I have relays in the Hids and will in the Fans.
 
74Burntorange said:
See thats the problem, The guys who have all these electrical upgrades, but old stock wiring like me. I have HIDS, MSD, Gauges and Im adding Electric fans. I want to get a better Alt. maybe even the denso since its smaller and lighter than the stock higher amp one, but I have to worry about the stock wiring dont I ? I have relays in the Hids and will in the Fans.
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You need to have healthy wiring with the proper ga wire for each load. When I installed the later model mopar charging system (from 30a to 74a) I installed a 4 ga wire from the alt to the starter relay. The bulk head connector was always my fear until I did away with it completely... its there but has the wires push straight through... no connectors. As well as the "Amp gauge by-pass"

I saw that I was going to be installing upgraded items so I decided that I needed a new wiring harness altogether. So I went with the EZ-wiring harness. I didn't realize how bad the factory wiring was until I got in out and it was laying on the floor. EEwwww!

The relays are the life savers.... the old wiring lets say for your headlights just turns into a "trigger" wire instead of carrying the load. You're going down the right path... just keep doing what you're doing.
 
tubbedamx said:
After I get the car up and running, I want to cover the harness with PowerBraid from painless wiring. Looks alot nicer than that plastic wire loom.
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Man that does look like some good harness loom! I like it.... thanks for the tip!
 
mullinax95 said:
You need to have healthy wiring with the proper ga wire for each load. When I installed the later model mopar charging system (from 30a to 74a) I installed a 4 ga wire from the alt to the starter relay. The bulk head connector was always my fear until I did away with it completely... its there but has the wires push straight through... no connectors. As well as the "Amp gauge by-pass"

I saw that I was going to be installing upgraded items so I decided that I needed a new wiring harness altogether. So I went with the EZ-wiring harness. I didn't realize how bad the factory wiring was until I got in out and it was laying on the floor. EEwwww!

The relays are the life savers.... the old wiring lets say for your headlights just turns into a "trigger" wire instead of carrying the load. You're going down the right path... just keep doing what you're doing.
Click to expand...

So just keep using Relays in the Correct places? and if so is it a good idea to use relays when upgrading the ALT.?
 
74Burntorange said:
See thats the problem, The guys who have all these electrical upgrades, but old stock wiring like me. I have HIDS, MSD, Gauges and Im adding Electric fans. I want to get a better Alt. maybe even the denso since its smaller and lighter than the stock higher amp one, but I have to worry about the stock wiring dont I ? I have relays in the Hids and will in the Fans.
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Here is a good read for you using the factory wiring harness...

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
 
I got the 60 amp one on my car...lights were brighter than ever at warm idle..900 rpms...all fans on and headlights...ran at 13.5 vdc at idle until it got really hot..the alternator that is and then I could see the regulator turn on and off...12 volts then 13.5 volts...the maxi 50 amp fuse stayed intact...this is a big block 440...I gave up on the 60 amp one and found 120 amp brand new one at Spider Marine for $129.99...wow is it a handfull...

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I will let you know how it goes..
 
How heavy is it? I like the small 60 amp alt,compact and light.It "should " be enough for my mild bracket plan.
 
needsaresto said:
How heavy is it? I like the small 60 amp alt,compact and light.It "should " be enough for my mild bracket plan.
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Here ya go...

Okay good news..it fit and kept the voltage right with everything on...

Okay for those who bet it is time to cash in...remember that I have real bad pictures but you will get the picture...I went there today...No problem...I used the same belt and and shimed it out with one washer at each mounting location to get it to match up with the crankshaft pulley...it fit with about an 1/8" to spare on the backside...I ran it for 20 minutes and it kept the voltage at 13.5v for the whole time with all fans on and the headlights on...no flickering or such...

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Hmm.Well at least it charges more amps,and likely more efficient/less drag than older style alts. A worthy upgrade. I was trying to square it all up in my head and figure out how big an alt I need for mine.I doubt a 60 amp will cut it.I would rather absorb the weight penalty of the bigger alt for it's extra power and thus a bit more peace of mind knowing you can run multiple fans,etc.
 
needsaresto said:
Hmm.Well at least it charges more amps,and likely more efficient/less drag than older style alts. A worthy upgrade. I was trying to square it all up in my head and figure out how big an alt I need for mine.I doubt a 60 amp will cut it.I would rather absorb the weight penalty of the bigger alt for it's extra power and thus a bit more peace of mind knowing you can run multiple fans,etc.
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17 pounds is what was on the box...I am going to step up to 4 or 6 awg wire as the last thing to finish this project...on my recent 440 build thread you will get more wiring details..I only wanted to add to this thread and not hi jack it with all of my details..
 
Does the sense wire have to be fused?

Also I was reading and cant find it, but it talked about a "exciter diode" that was being used if you were going with MSD ignition, any info on the diode ?
 
i just bought a similar alternator and the circular plug for it, my question is do i have to use my voltage regulator still? i hear people hooking the sense wire directly to a constant hot (starter relay), if this is the case the green wire off the v/r is not being used, that gives me the impression this alt is internally regulated, but i didnt think it was.....? confused..

i have a newer style (vr)
 
You dummy out the voltage regulator. You have to turn it on with the ignition you can use the old blue wire of the old voltage regulator. The voltage sense wire can go to the battery or the big hot on the starter relay.
 
fcm42000 said:
i just bought a similar alternator and the circular plug for it, my question is do i have to use my voltage regulator still? i hear people hooking the sense wire directly to a constant hot (starter relay), if this is the case the green wire off the v/r is not being used, that gives me the impression this alt is internally regulated, but i didnt think it was.....? confused..

i have a newer style (vr)
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They are internally regulated. Re-read the original post. You REMOVE the old Mopar regulator

The new one has three wires

(in the original example)

1 BATTERY

2 voltage sense, yellow. Hooks to a "solid" battery connection, such as starter relay stud

3 energize, blue, hooks to your original blue Mopar field wire

I DO NOT know about these new Denso's but in the case of the older Delcos (which hook the same way) you MUST put a series diode in the energize wire (in place of the idiot light) to keep from occasionally blowing up diode trios

In the example below, of the older Delco, they "cheat" on the sense wire by hooking it to the alternator stud. SOME of the newer Delco regulators ("one wire) are indeed hooked up this way

http://www.gondtc.com/~blweltin/Bob/AlternatorHarness4.jpg
 
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