Denso Alternator Installation

-
The "one wire" setups all do that, and I'm not saying I exactly agree with it, but the thing is, if the charging line is as big as it should be, "it will be fine." LOL.

Also bear in mind that as the battery comes up, and the charge rate reduces, there will be less drop. This apparently is "acceptable" because some modern trucks and tractors come this way from the factory!!
 
I asked because through googling the subject i found someone that ran them together, i dont know the results, just saw his pictures and diagram and got confused, kinda makes you wonder though...where would the magic smoke escape from first
 
That amp fuse are you guys using with the 120 amp alternator.When i try to run a fuse it blows.Ti is charging at 13.7 and if I run the 8 gauge wire straight there is no problem.I went to a 60 amp fuse but it blow that to. Mark
 
dartcuda1 said:
That amp fuse are you guys using with the 120 amp alternator.When i try to run a fuse it blows.Ti is charging at 13.7 and if I run the 8 gauge wire straight there is no problem.I went to a 60 amp fuse but it blow that to. Mark
Click to expand...
Run two heavy reds with two seperate 60 amp fuses.
 
GM one wire to a constant 12 volt power source. My instalation harness is one 6 inch wire as seen. Mounting bracket is the power steering bracket. No wires running on top of the motor. No harness needs to be made. The easiest install you can do. 100 amp. Turns itself off and on with pulley rotation

dscf0093-1-jpg.1714628347


View attachment DSCF0093[1].jpg


dscf0167-1-jpg.1714628348

View attachment DSCF0167[1].jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Anyone know where I can get the pigtail plug for the back of the Denso Alternator?
 
NAPA or any parts store should have them. I'm in the process of adding an alternator on my drag race Dart. Using a Denso and making it a 1 wire alternator.
 
Just for everyone's knowledge here is how you hook up this plug.

The blue wire at the connector is the 12 vdc monitoring source (ie battery). The green wire ties to the ignition source to turn the alternator on. The red wire is not used.

attachment.php
 
If you need a two pulley a Denso one from a 88 Dodge van with a V6 also works well.
 
can you please post a simple wiring schematic of your upgrade including fuse size and location, awg sizes and interior wiring mods if any.
thanks
Jon
you can send it to APWU7029@msn.com if you like
 
bremereric said:
I got the 60 amp one on my car...lights were brighter than ever at warm idle..900 rpms...all fans on and headlights...ran at 13.5 vdc at idle until it got really hot..the alternator that is and then I could see the regulator turn on and off...12 volts then 13.5 volts...the maxi 50 amp fuse stayed intact...this is a big block 440...I gave up on the 60 amp one and found 120 amp brand new one at Spider Marine for $129.99...wow is it a handfull...

IMG00044-20110212-1841.jpg


I will let you know how it goes..
Click to expand...


They still have them at that price, just placed an order for one.
 
I'm running Edelbrock 6017 heads and with the Mancini bracket kit, the John Deere alt was a no-go. She bolted up, but the additional mass on the back interfered with the head and there was no room for tension adjustment. I just went to the parts store and picked up a 70amp for Hilux, oh well. Anybody want to buy this 120amp little guy??
image.jpg
 
Doing this now. My question is, why run the sense wire to the starter relay? Just keep it at the alt on the battery fees. As in diagram....go from sense to battery post. Please explain why that wouldn't work? It avoids running all that wire

FB_IMG_1497121614023.jpg
 
fcm42000 said:
hooking the sense wire up to the alt output is not smart, ever heard of voltage drop?

i am asking because people have run the v/r with the denso, at least advertised that, that is what confused me, it worked for them
Click to expand...

Explain this to me! Please! They say to run the sense wire to the starter stud. That's no different than just going to the alternator battery stud correct?
 
AlternatorHarness4.jpg


I do t see why not just run the sense wire like this. No different than going to the battery or relay stud.
 
^^Yes it is different.^^. The sense wire needs to "see" battery voltage exactly. Depending on how long and how small the charging wire is, with that setup you will have voltage drop. That is, the alternator stud will "see" the 13.8--14.2 setpoint of the VR, but the battery may be lower due to load/ voltage drop

This is essence is the entire problem with a "one wire" AND IS WHY with a one wire you need to have MUCH larger charging line
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top