depressing newbe question of the day

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lhearold said:
I'll bet all of you are off base. Bet its detonation (ping) due to over advanced timing and/or crappy fuel. Look at what he describes as symptoms and think for a moment.
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distributor is more modern than car, (i might be way off base in thinking that moots your timing point)

been using premium 91 oct fuel

i can rev the engine plenty without noise.... dont know if this helps,

I like your different view though


,,,, just went for my cruse and having her stall out on me when sitting there in gear gets me thinking you maybe on to something. I will change the fuel filter some day soon. always thought my stalling was carb. issues
 
Is the new bolt just too long and bottoming out? Those yoke bolts aren't very long. If that's not the problem loosen the other bolt and see if you can tap the U-joint cap in. it has a C-clip on it that is supposed to seat on the inside of the yoke then you can tighten the bolts that hold the strap down. That might also be why you have so much slop in the U-joint cause 1/8" play in the u-joint is terrible. You shouldn't be any play at all. Get that fixed and if you still have 1/8" slop you need a new U-joint. Also a note about the motor mounts. When the trans. is in drive and you torque it up the drivers side will raise and when you torque it up in reverse the pass. side will raise. It shouldn't raise much more than 1/2" but your mounts look old and worn so they'll probably give more. Might be time for a new set of mounts. Last time I bought some (3-4 yrs. ago) they only cost $11 each at NAPA.
 
fishy68 said:
Is the new bolt just too long and bottoming out? Those yoke bolts aren't very long. If that's not the problem loosen the other bolt and see if you can tap the U-joint cap in. it has a C-clip on it that is supposed to seat on the inside of the yoke then you can tighten the bolts that hold the strap down. That might also be why you have so much slop in the U-joint cause 1/8" play in the u-joint is terrible. You shouldn't be any play at all. Get that fixed and if you still have 1/8" slop you need a new U-joint. Also a note about the motor mounts. When the trans. is in drive and you torque it up the drivers side will raise and when you torque it up in reverse the pass. side will raise. It shouldn't raise much more than 1/2" but your mounts look old and worn so they'll probably give more. Might be time for a new set of mounts. Last time I bought some (3-4 yrs. ago) they only cost $11 each at NAPA.
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I took the old bolt out to go get a match, they are same size, new one is grade 8

:quote: see if you can tap the U-joint cap in. it has a C-clip on it that is supposed to seat on the inside of the yoke then you can tighten the bolts that hold the strap down. :quote:

losing me here 0.o
C-clip sounds like the thing that comes off when i remove both bolts.

I wish I could spend only 22 bucks to replace the mounts. replacing them sounds like a chore I may be able to do someday... now i'm too green

thanks
 
1969dodgedartgt said:
I took the old bolt out to go get a match, they are same size, new one is grade 8

Ok. Sounds like you need to run a tap in it and clean out the threads.
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:quote: see if you can tap the U-joint cap in. it has a C-clip on it that is supposed to seat on the inside of the yoke then you can tighten the bolts that hold the strap down. :quote:

losing me here 0.o
C-clip sounds like the thing that comes off when i remove both bolts.

No that's the U-joint retaining strap. The C-clip pops onto the U-joint caps and their purpose is to keep the U-joint centered.
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I wish I could spend only 22 bucks to replace the mounts. replacing them sounds like a chore I may be able to do someday... now i'm too green

thanks
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Mounts aren't hard to change but I can understand the learning curve. We've all been there. You might want to look around for a factory service manual (not one of them crap Haynes manuals Autozone sells). A good factory serv. manual will pay for itself in no time.
 
are the clips on the inside of the joint in place? I've never seen caps stick out that far.
IMG_2157.jpg
 
mac daddy mopar said:
are the clips on the inside of the joint in place? I've never seen caps stick out that far.
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mmm i sure dont know, thanks for pointing out

anyone know how much it would cost to have a tranny shop replace seals on the exit end and btwn pan and tranny? my guess from reading i've done/ or was it 'car talk' is couple hundred.
 
I know you said you are green,but it's really not that hard to replace the seal on the tail shaft.Just remove the driveshaft and pull out old seal,tap in new one being careful not to damage it.
 
This guy's obviously green & he admits it. Is there somebody close that can look at that u-joint? That thing worries me. I've never messed with a 7 1/4" rear. First time I broke a spider gear I swapped in an 8 3/4. Can the yoke be swapped without messing with the pinion depth? Sounds like another yoke is what it needs. If the u-joint goes he'll be stuck & probably end up with a bent drive shaft & a towing bill.

The seals & motor mounts are simple, just mainly labor. The u-joint could be done with a vise or even big sockets & a hammer. He just needs some guidance.
 
I went an bought a T-handle tap wrench and a tap of same size as previous thread (1/4"-28). I took apart ujoint in order get proper angle of attack. After numerous fairly careful efforts, I could not get tap to go in straight.

I guess i'll have to try and re-drill an tap a bigger hole. grrrr more stuff to buy...

on a positive note, i figured where some of the grease would go, and it looks greased up ok.
 
You might try drilling into the yoke just a small amount (1/8" to 3/16") to clean up the first part of the old screwed up threads then try again with your tap. Don't force it, go easy. If you force it it'll probably want to pull off center again. Take it easy and it should go in straight. Also after you get it started just turn the tap 3/4~1 turn at a time then back it out to remove the chips of metal otherwise you may bind up the tap and break it and believe me you never want to break a tap off in something cause there darn near impossible to remove.

When your done tapping it spray some brake cleaner or carb cleaner into the hole to clean it out. Be careful though as it'll want to come shooting back out high speed.
 
toolmanmike said:
Ouch! fix that missing bolt on the rear end yoke. Also check the flex plate for cracks between all bolt holes (crankshaft and torque convertor end. photo #3. Grey plate bolted to your orange torque convertor) Cracks can make some funky noises under load. toolmanmike
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Sorry to bump into someone else post like this but since cracks on the flex plate was brought up I got a question. Is it possible for the flex plate to be cracked but the cracks not really be visible with out removing it. Got a lot of noise in that area but can't narrow it down.
 
I might be wrong but that U joint looks shot to me. The center line doesn't look right. I'm guessing most of the journal under that cap is gone.

Back in 1978 The drive shaft fell out from under my cousins' 69 t-bird. It went under the right rear wheel. They lost control and went off the right side of the road backward. The fellow in the back seat died. Cousin lost his license and rode a moped for 5 years.
Bottom line... forget the "mash it" part of your post until that u joint is properly repaired.
 
64cuda is onto it guys. Let's consider what this site is truly about. Lots of good advice here on this thread but this is a newby to the hobby and he does need some hands on guidance. That's what we're here for. You can bet if he were close to West Plains, Mo. he'd have that thing here in my shop and we'd be on it like a pit bull on a T-bone. It's obvious that the caps on that u joint aint right. If it dont have nipples on it to hold the caps in place it will have the keeper rings. Maybe wrong u joint? How long have you owned the car? What year? Simple fix as is also the seal on the back of the tranny. I know we have some good members in his area and hope someone comes to the rescue. Where ya located in Cali gt? Trying to get ya some help long before you need a funeral home. Step up here guys and lets help this newby out. Guaranteed a good feeling you will get. Tell us where your located GT. Someone here lives in your back yard but we need to know where the backyard is.
Small Block
 
GT where are you located in Cali. I'm in san diego. If your close let me know I can help with basic stuff. This is an easy fix with little cash. If I cant help I know people who can. Let me know. I'm out of town till the 9th of Nov. if you can wait.
 
73Swinger318 said:
Sorry to bump into someone else post like this but since cracks on the flex plate was brought up I got a question. Is it possible for the flex plate to be cracked but the cracks not really be visible with out removing it. Got a lot of noise in that area but can't narrow it down.
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Yeah they can crack around the crank bolts. Had that happen once and it made all kinds of racket.
 
finally, after one cheap tap and die set and a cheep helicoil kit,
I finally got a 1/4-20 helicoil to go in and replace the 1/4-28 and every thing is tight now....
IMG_2174.jpg



The sound is still there, I'm thinking (again) that its transmission since after I add some fluid to it (when needed) I have a hard time getting the sound to come until 4-5 attempts through mashing. but the fluid old fluid looks, feels, and smells fine so I'm still confused... I'll reseal it someday soon and go from there....
 
RedFish said:
I might be wrong but that U joint looks shot to me. The center line doesn't look right. I'm guessing most of the journal under that cap is gone.

Back in 1978 The drive shaft fell out from under my cousins' 69 t-bird. It went under the right rear wheel. They lost control and went off the right side of the road backward. The fellow in the back seat died. Cousin lost his license and rode a moped for 5 years.
Bottom line... forget the "mash it" part of your post until that u joint is properly repaired.
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the front or back u joint looks shot? I see nothing about a journal under a cap for the ujoints in the service manual.... ???

scary story... it has worried me saftywise, I have AAA so towing is not a prob... I hope its safe now since I have replace the bolt
 
Small Block said:
64cuda is onto it guys. Let's consider what this site is truly about. Lots of good advice here on this thread but this is a newby to the hobby and he does need some hands on guidance. That's what we're here for. You can bet if he were close to West Plains, Mo. he'd have that thing here in my shop and we'd be on it like a pit bull on a T-bone. It's obvious that the caps on that u joint aint right. If it dont have nipples on it to hold the caps in place it will have the keeper rings. Maybe wrong u joint? How long have you owned the car? What year? Simple fix as is also the seal on the back of the tranny. I know we have some good members in his area and hope someone comes to the rescue. Where ya located in Cali gt? Trying to get ya some help long before you need a funeral home. Step up here guys and lets help this newby out. Guaranteed a good feeling you will get. Tell us where your located GT. Someone here lives in your back yard but we need to know where the backyard is.
Small Block
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back or front U joint? I've owned the car since August. I'm in Davis Cal, sometimes in bay area (livermore) (like now)

If there is more wrong with my U joint that you can see, I would definitely like to get some help on it before I die from it. theres more wrong??? as far as I can see from the service manual the ujoints look ok
 
I'm guessing the first video was shot before you repaired the u-joint strap as there's only one bolt holding it on and it's off centre.

It looks like the play inside the u-joint itself is causing your problem.The outside caps of the u-joint should'nt move separately from the inner cross piece when it's strapped in place.Plus after the way it was running out of true,it's very likely to have some kind of damage to it.

I'd start by replacing the u-joint and that will likely solve the problem.
 
The rearend video shows quite a bit of slop in the rearend gears but I have seen them that bad and not be noisy. Sometimes they are and sometimes their not.

The vid of you wiggling the U-joint is before you had the bolt fixed so it's hard to tell but it does look like the U-joint has a little play. I'd do what 67GT said and replace that U-joint.

I can hear a sound on the other video but can't really tell what it is but I will say it doesn't sound anything like bad gears sound. If it sounds like it's coming from the rearend replace the U-joint and see what happens.
 
Try squeezing the prop shaft u joint caps with a c clamp and see if they move. It looks like the c clips on the inside of the caps has fallen off.
I have a 7 1/4 axle and my caps don't stick out like that, there flush with the shaft.
 
67GTConvert said:
I'm guessing the first video was shot before you repaired the u-joint strap as there's only one bolt holding it on and it's off centre.

It looks like the play inside the u-joint itself is causing your problem.The outside caps of the u-joint should'nt move separately from the inner cross piece when it's strapped in place.Plus after the way it was running out of true,it's very likely to have some kind of damage to it.

I'd start by replacing the u-joint and that will likely solve the problem.
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fishy68 said:
The rearend video shows quite a bit of slop in the rearend gears but I have seen them that bad and not be noisy. Sometimes they are and sometimes their not.

The vid of you wiggling the U-joint is before you had the bolt fixed so it's hard to tell but it does look like the U-joint has a little play. I'd do what 67GT said and replace that U-joint.

I can hear a sound on the other video but can't really tell what it is but I will say it doesn't sound anything like bad gears sound. If it sounds like it's coming from the rearend replace the U-joint and see what happens.
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yes that first video was before the fix.. I'll check the play again.
I imagine it might be hard to find a shop where they can confidently tell me the condition of my ujoints and where they would know how to replace that joint. (excuse this question) what parts get replaced when replacing the ujoint? (do i have to replace the driveshaft and flange on the rear, or just all the little pieces that go on the cross?)

thanks
 
bobscuda67 said:
Try squeezing the prop shaft u joint caps with a c clamp and see if they move. It looks like the c clips on the inside of the caps has fallen off.
I have a 7 1/4 axle and my caps don't stick out like that, there flush with the shaft.
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I think your saying to squeeze the two parts of the drive shaft that the caps go into... I'll try this today and see what happens, I'll also take the whole joint apart, snap some pictures of what I find, compare with manual and post.

could someone post a picture of what the caps on the 7.25 rear should look like...

Thanks guys
 
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