Did I miss something?

-
Chris Martin

Chris Martin

Norton
Joined
May 7, 2006
Messages
54
Reaction score
0
Location
Goderich Ontario Canada
I just changed my 70 duster drums to a 73 duster set-up. All went fairly well until I took it down the road. My front tires are squealing, seems the calipers are holding on. The calipers, pads, UBJ, LBJ, and flex lines are all new. Is it possible the master cyl is wrong not allowing enough fluid back out of the calipers? I was hoping to take it to Thanksgiving supper tomorrow but that's a no go. Any suggestions would be great, thanks in advance.
 
if you jack the front end off the ground, do the wheels turn freely?
 
ir3333 said:
residual valve in the Master?
Click to expand...

That won't do it.

Did you change the master? If the stroke on the linkage is wrong, the master piston(s) won't return and will lock up the brakes
 
I got a master that was supposed to work but it didn't look any different which made me think of it being the issue. Is there an easy way to tell the difference between a drum/drum and a disc/drum master? Out of curiousity what makes them different?

If I jack the front up the wheels turn but not as well as they should and no the bearings aren't too tight.
 
The biggest difference between a disk cylinder is that it does not have residual valves in the drum side, and most have a larger "tank" on the disk side.

Neither of the above is the issue

What is the issue is whether the hole in the back matches the linkage properly so that when the pedal is up, the piston(s) return past the compensating ports. If they do not, the brakes will lock and stay locked, or at least drag severely

For example, I just converted my car to 4x brakes. I'm still using the original 67 drum master. All I did was to poke a nail into the master fittings to rupture the residual valves. The thing works just great. It just happened to be a good bore size to give me good pedal effort.
 
So if I take the line off the master that feeds the front and shove a nail or dental pick in it to rupture the valve i might be good? Everything worked prior to putting the disc parts on.
 
I took the master off and everything was lined up. I put a pick in the line hole and it felt resistance. So my guess is i was given the wrong master. I guess a trip to Napa in the A.M.
 
Sorry you missed my point. What I was trying to say is, you don't want residual valves in a disk system, BUT THAT THEY WILL NOT cause this problem.

See post 6


ir3333 said:
residual valve in the Master?
Click to expand...

67Dart273 said:
That won't do it.

Did you change the master? If the stroke on the linkage is wrong, the master piston(s) won't return and will lock up the brakes
Click to expand...
 
Hello everyone, let me introduce myself, I am moron. So as it turns out I had my 9 year old help bleed the brakes when I was finished this job and I totally forgot how much kids like switches. Yes, I have a roll control valve and the switch for it was inviting to those little fingers. It is hooked to switched power so thats why when the car is off the wheels turn. BUT...when i start the car and press the brakes then put it in gear guess what ](*,).
I appreciate everyone's input but this one comes down to me not thinking
 
So your roll control is NOT on a spring loaded switch?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top