Dies when hot, possibly boiling gas, exhaust flap stuck

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nick455440

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Have a few things going on with a 65 170 in a valiant, has a NOS carb that has only been on it a short time, has the pertronix 2 ignition on it, fuel line is ran over the valve cover and not close to exhaust manifold, car starts runs great, seems to be getting pretty hot after just a few miles of driving then it will just bog way down, have to feather the pedal just to keep it running at a crawl and still dies, then will fire up for a hundred yards or so then bogs/ dies, when it was real hot today after bogging down and dying several times, opened the carb by hand and there was a lot of white smoke coming out of the top, worked the throttle to watch what happens when a lot of gas is given and just a lot of white smoke and heard boiling in the carb. Not sure if timing could cause it to get hot enough to boild gas, the main thing I am worried about and think it may be is the flap in the exhaust is stuck not sure how open or how closed but will not budge, worried about separating the intake and exhaust manifold and then separating the exhaust at the flange as I am pretty sure non of this has ever been removed, low miles car that was old lady owed. looking for suggestions, also what is the factory timing? 5 before tdc? appreciate any and all info, thanks.
 
Not sure how the heatriser is positioned on a /6 but with you living in Florida, I would remove it all together.
Late timing can put a lot of heat into the exhaust, which in turn could heat up the intake again as a result.
Put timing at around 10-15 btdc and give it try.
 
I would make sure the timing is set like BBM suggested, but if your heat riser flapper is stuck closed you will continue to have problems. Lots of penetrating oil and playing with it until it breaks free. Stuck open would be fine, stuck closed could cause a problem like you are describing.
 
There is a specific lubricant and rust penetrant sold at the Mopar dealers for this purpose, and for other general stuck parts. It may help free the flapper. When I freed mine up on a '62, I just that an other penetrants for days. I eventually lightly tapped the shaft back and forth and back and forth (forwards and backwards on the car) a bit at a time while working in the Mopar penetrant and it slowly freed up and worked free enough so that I could start turning it some and eventually all freed up.
 
Thanks everyone, I reset the timing last night to 10/15 before top dead and still is getting very hot after a short time, was hoping that was it but about to tackle the exhaust flap
 
Is it possible you have a restriction in the exhaust? Something loose in the muffler that may be blocking flow?
 
Pulled the exhaust and intake, flap is stuck in a position that is blowing most of the air up at the intake, going to either cut it out or beat it open, I am thinking this will fix the issues I have been getting, also thinking about doing the wood spacer under the carb trick, thanks for all the info guys
 
A guy I know was having a problem with his /6 it was vaporizing fuel, I don't know what he did to solve it but I've heard that is a problem.
 
Try to keep the valve functional. It really helps the warm up on cold, or high-humidity mornings.

That special penetrating fluid is specifically designed for that valve, and I have seen it at the Ford dealer too, with a Ford logo on it no less. Take your time on it. Sometimes a day or two with multiple applications, just like member nm9 details. It just takes time.
 
Had a problem once upon a time where the flexible hose between the fuel pump and the steel line from the rear of the car would collapse after about an hour of highway driving. Cured it by replacing hose and making sure there was no sag and no sharp bends in it.
 
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