fuzzman
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info Dan I did order some of those LEDS this week when you posted the link and that did answer my question
Pat
Dim Dash Lights
- Thread starter 70orangeswinger
- Start date
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Pat
Darthomas
Ashamed to be seen in foreign cars
This is all basic ohms law.
I agree with those who eliminated the bulkhead connector for a straight wire for the heavy current to the ammeter.
I did that 35 yrs ago.
The MAD website just makes me cranky.
The engineers who designed these systems did NOT expect (engineer) us to be loving these cars some 50 years later.
In the rust belt cars died in 5-10 years, often not for collision, rust out or motor/transmission mechanical breakage, but for effing bulkhead connector resistance point overheating and subsequently oxidized connectors that just gave up.
Silver is good, dull gray is bad.
LEDs will reduce current, but major thumbs up to whoever pointed out the need to be ready to give the bulb socket a half turn if the LED does not light.
I agree with those who eliminated the bulkhead connector for a straight wire for the heavy current to the ammeter.
I did that 35 yrs ago.
The MAD website just makes me cranky.
The engineers who designed these systems did NOT expect (engineer) us to be loving these cars some 50 years later.
In the rust belt cars died in 5-10 years, often not for collision, rust out or motor/transmission mechanical breakage, but for effing bulkhead connector resistance point overheating and subsequently oxidized connectors that just gave up.
Silver is good, dull gray is bad.
LEDs will reduce current, but major thumbs up to whoever pointed out the need to be ready to give the bulb socket a half turn if the LED does not light.
fuzzman
Well-Known Member
I installed those LED dash lights that slantsixdan recommended and I didn't take the blue sockets out and it did the job those are the ticket when you dash lights are dim.
Thanks
Pat
Removing the blue tint diffusers does 2 things, Allows a much more harsh white light which makes eyes tired, allows a bulb to fall into the inst' panel.
And by the way... In some cases that lil' plastic half ball could be the most difficult part you ever tried to remove and/or reinstall.
And by the way... In some cases that lil' plastic half ball could be the most difficult part you ever tried to remove and/or reinstall.
slantsixdan
=..=
There's no basis for the idea that removing the blue balloons makes the dash light "harsher" or makes your eyes tired faster. Blue light is actually the hardest type for the human visual system to process, but that doesn't enter into the equation here because those balloons change the light colour only very slightly.
That said, if you specifically want to make the dash lights as eye-easy as possible, then use these instead of the previously-linked ones. Yellow-amber light without the blue balloons, or slightly greenish-yellow light with the balloons.
That said, if you specifically want to make the dash lights as eye-easy as possible, then use these instead of the previously-linked ones. Yellow-amber light without the blue balloons, or slightly greenish-yellow light with the balloons.
Alaskan_TA
Well-Known Member
The owners manuals recommend keeping the panel lights dim. Brighter the light, the more your pupils dilate, so best to have dim lights inside & bright lights outside for better night vision.
Darthomas
Ashamed to be seen in foreign cars
True in dark places, but in urban areas the existing light causes eyes pupils to close more, and the glare makes me keep them on full brightness.
I would not like to remove the blue bubbles.
bringing this back...don't suppose these are dimmable...
slantsixdan
=..=
I'm pretty sure they are, but since you ask it strikes me I'm not 100% fer sher.
maybe someone with these could give their knob a twist and let me know if the lights go out
you are spending way too much money on those. I still have the ones in my dash that I posted earlier. They are dimmable and work great!! I could barely see them before! I almost bought the blue ones only because my car is blue. I didn't remove any shields or modify the dash in any way. Just plug and play. As was mentioned earlier, make sure they are in the right way or they won't light. If that happens, just turn them around the other way. I also had plenty of spares when I was done!!
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Bookmaker
Well-Known Member
slantsixdan
=..=
Be very careful not to make your instrument panel too bright. Most people never touch the rheostat, and just run them at max intensity...not realizing this significantly degrades their critical seeing ability, even though there's no discomfort glare involved. Don't overlamp the gauges and use that rheostat! The gauges should be just bright enough to read quickly with one glance. No brighter. And it's better to have a color somewhere in the warm white/yellow/amber range, rather than blue/cold white, which screws up your night vision much more at any given brightness level.
slantsixdan
=..=
Checked and confirmed: Yes, the legitimate/good bulbs are dimmable. this is the white one, this is the amber one (I prefer these for max legibility with min glare) and this is the red one (for red warning lights). Relatively expensive compared to stock filament bulbs or cheap generic LEDs, but you'll never have to replace them again and your dash light rheostat, wires, circuit board, etc will run nice and cool.
thank's Dan. i ordered some from the link a couple weeks ago but haven't had the time to install them. hoping to do that and the headlights i got from you next weekend.
CaptRon
Well-Known Member
Got any recommendations for the dome light?
slantsixdan
=..=
There aren't any I really like. Interior lights are less safety-critical than exterior lights, so there's not much hazard to playing around with trinkets like what SuperBrightLeds (and a whole bunch of other vendors) sell. In place of 1004 dome lights I have tended to use this in "Warm White" . Don't recall if the white diffuser/lens fits over this bulb, though; it's been awhile.
CaptRon
Well-Known Member
slantsixdan
=..=
No, that one has a single + contact on the bottom and the -ground is the base shell. The doom light bulb has + and - contacts on the bottom and the base shell is electrically not active. If you cram this or any other single-contact bulb into the doom light socket, you'll create a short circuit.
(Yeah, I know. I just like saying 'doom light')
(Yeah, I know. I just like saying 'doom light')
slantsixdan
=..=
Not in an A-body Mopar, they don't. That started with the F-bodies.
d1970
TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO HAVE A GOOD DAY
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