disc swap into a 64 Barracuda

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Fstforward

Fstforward

Barracuda Freak
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I have the opportunity to get a complete disc brake setup from either a 73 or 74 Dart Sport at what I deem a reasonable price.

My Question, will this swap into my 1964 Barracuda in place of the old drum setup, with virtually no massaging, or a minimum of massaging? Or am I looking at a major headache trying to make it fit?????

I'd love to make this a disc front/drum back car, unless I can find a rear end to replace the 7-1/4 and upgrade it to rear discs, also, but for now.....

Thanks in advance

FF
 
Its a bolt in deal. just make sure you get eveything llike the master, prop. valve, upper arms, etc.
 
Yes it,s a bolt in,like Camd64 said.I did the swap on my 66 Dart,very easy job,don,t forget new flex lines.

trim 026.jpg


trim 029.jpg
 
Did the swap also. Simple. I put the calipers on the side where the brakeline was already. Left on th eright and right on the left.
 
Fstforward said:
I have the opportunity to get a complete disc brake setup from either a 73 or 74 Dart Sport at what I deem a reasonable price.

My Question, will this swap into my 1964 Barracuda in place of the old drum setup, with virtually no massaging, or a minimum of massaging? Or am I looking at a major headache trying to make it fit?????

I'd love to make this a disc front/drum back car, unless I can find a rear end to replace the 7-1/4 and upgrade it to rear discs, also, but for now.....

Thanks in advance

FF
Click to expand...


If you have the swaybar on the 64 then keep your LCAs (good time to replace the bushings though). Use the 73/74 spindles, UCA, and all the brake parts. Reverse the calipers to the rear (swap spindles) so that you don't have them hitting the swaybar. Since the 64 was a single MC all drum system you will need the porportioning valve from the 73/74 also otherwise don't hit the brakes hard or you will get massive rear wheel skid!! The older wheel cylinders didn't have the expansion cup & spring in them so there was a valve in the old MC to keep residual pressure in the lines so the wheel cylinder cups didn't collapse. Make sure when you buy new cylinders for the back that they have the cups & springs since the 73/74 MC doesn't have the residual valve. Some companies are still selling the cylinders without the springs believe it or not. Last ones I got were from carquest but went thru 3 sets before I got one with the springs. Naturally the rules of safety apply. Since they are old parts, replace all ball joints, tierod ends, seals, bearings, etc. Don't stake your life on unknown parts....

Larry
 
Looks like when I get the disc setup for the front, I'm also going to be able tto score an 8-3/4 rear SG, so the old crap in the 7-1/4 will go away. The brake setup includes the uca's, the spindles, the proportioning valve, etc.

I don't have a sway bar on the car, YET, but that is on my wish list for when it comes apart, add front and rear sway bar assy's.

FF
 
64dartwagon said:
Don't forget the difference in bolt pattern. 5x4 1/2
Click to expand...

Already thought of that, with the discs in the front, and the 8-3/4 rear swapped in, I'll have 5X4-1/2's all the way around, plus it opens up my selection of aftermarket wheels available.

FF
 
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