I found two spare mopar electronic distributers with vaccume advance and i took them apart and looked at the plates that the slots are in the thing the ignition rotor sits on top of. I read the numbers on the back of them and one says 15L on it and one says 13L. I was told that by reading these numbers you could tell how much mechanical advance they give in the distributer. Right now in the distributer i am running on my engine the mechanical advance is 28 degrees wich is too much, when i run 34 degrees of total timing on my 360 magnum it gives me an initial of 6 or 7 degrees. I am hoping one of these set of slots will allow me to run a higher initial timing. Does anyone know how much mechanical advance is in the 13L or 15L?
distributer plate with slots
- Thread starter pjc360
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I believe those are distributor degrees, IE 26 and 30 at the crank.
You could also get an idea by measuring the slots with a caliper. Someone came up with this chart, also in dist. degrees:
Modifying advance slots
degrees / slot size
6.............. .340
7................355
8................375
9................390
10...............405
11.5 ...........420
12...............435
13...............445
14...............460
15...............475
16...............490
17...............505
18...............520
You could also get an idea by measuring the slots with a caliper. Someone came up with this chart, also in dist. degrees:
Modifying advance slots
degrees / slot size
6.............. .340
7................355
8................375
9................390
10...............405
11.5 ...........420
12...............435
13...............445
14...............460
15...............475
16...............490
17...............505
18...............520
Ok so i just found out that the plate with the 15 stamped on it means 15 degrees at full advance providing 30 degrees at the crank (mechanical advance) so does that mean that the plate stamped with 13 is around 28 or 26 degrees at the crank?
so even with the plate that reads 13 that means 26 degrees of mecahnical advance wich means if i ran 34 degrees of total timing i'd end up with 8 degrees of initital timing wich isnt enough really. i think right now in my current distributer that i'm running i have a plate that would read 14 because when i run a total of 34 degrees timing my initial lands at 6 degrees.
does anybody know if mopar sells factory advance plates? like different ones i'm sure there is a way to get different advance plates that have 20 degrees of crankshaft degrees, if i could find one i'm sure it would read 10 on it and that would mean it has 20 degrees of mechanical advance. I have an advance plate that reads 15 and 13 i need to find one that reads at least 12 or 10 on it. I'm sure there is some company that sell factory advance plates for the mopar distributers. If anybody knows let me know.
ramcharger
Dismember
Get yourself an MP dizzy, under 200 bucks or weld up the slots on the weights..
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=67882&highlight=distributor
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=67882&highlight=distributor
why would i get a 200 dollar distributer when i can get a limiter plate from fbo for around 20 bucks? i can drop the limiter plate into my distributer and i can ether lock out the mechanical advance or set it at 10 14 and 18. That sounds like a better idea to me vs spending 200 bucks on a new distributer. And i thought i had heard from someone or somehwere that you can buy advance plates direct from mopar. Thats what im trying to find out right now.
ramcharger
Dismember
OK, then buy a new plate every time you make a change on your engine with an old *** wobbly shaft and plate?
Summit has the MP dizzy for well under 2 hundo. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690430/
If you're set on the plate, get it from FBO. BTW, how old is your diz?
Distributer is about 8 years old but it really does not have a ton of miles on it. the truck has sat for about half of the 8 years that the engine has been in the truck and the distributer was purchased brand new. This distributer i have proble has about 20 to 25 thousand miles on it max.
And another thing i am wondering is what would be the best rpm to have all my advance in by? This engine is in a 4x4 truck so should i have it com ing in around 3000 rpm? because thats where its coming in at now and it seems good. I was told after i install a limter plate i will need to change the springs because if i install the plate and set it to say 18 crankshaft degrees so i could run my initial timing at around 15 degrees and run my total timing at 32 to 34 degrees that it will make my mechanical advance come in a little sooner then it originally was. is this a good thing or a bad thing in a bigger four wheel drive truck? cause i can buy a spring kit along with it to keep my mechanical advance coming all in by 3000 rpm.
I cant believe mopar does not sell advance plates seperatly for the older mopar distributers that is really stupid that they dont because they could be easily changed out and case closed just dont make much sense why they didnt or dont do that?
How old are you?
They don't sell just the plate, because they sell a complete dizzy. If they sold just the plate they would have people blaming them when the plate didn't do exactly what the customer intended it to do. By selling a complete assembly they take the guesswork out of what the end user is going to do.
Do you realize that chrylser prollly hasn't made a mechanical advance dizzy since the late 70's. They have absolutely no reason to support a product that is that old. How many do you think they would sell a year? Maybe 5? Most people with old cars are going to do one of two things spend money or learn to do it so that they don't have to spend money. So you can buy a performance dizzy or learn to weld and grind slots, change advance springs. I remember the mopar "Engine" book from way back when covered all of the dizzy mods.
They don't sell just the plate, because they sell a complete dizzy. If they sold just the plate they would have people blaming them when the plate didn't do exactly what the customer intended it to do. By selling a complete assembly they take the guesswork out of what the end user is going to do.
Do you realize that chrylser prollly hasn't made a mechanical advance dizzy since the late 70's. They have absolutely no reason to support a product that is that old. How many do you think they would sell a year? Maybe 5? Most people with old cars are going to do one of two things spend money or learn to do it so that they don't have to spend money. So you can buy a performance dizzy or learn to weld and grind slots, change advance springs. I remember the mopar "Engine" book from way back when covered all of the dizzy mods.
This is such a drama, soap opera.
You got good info, here and at other sites. Sweat equity or money, pick which you want to spend. Make a decision and go with it.
Pay attention to the "L" on the plate, if the one in your distributor doesn't have it you might not want to use it.
You got good info, here and at other sites. Sweat equity or money, pick which you want to spend. Make a decision and go with it.
Pay attention to the "L" on the plate, if the one in your distributor doesn't have it you might not want to use it.
mopar quit selling the pick up coil and distributor cap/rotor for their race mechanical distributor....
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Do you read anything that anybody writes to you ?
Before you move on,answer this question.
I told you,what seems like months ago,that your 4x4 truck is a HEAVIER vehicle than an A-body. Which means you Do Not want your advance to come in as quick. You are trying to tune a distributor like its for a street car,and it's not. It's for a big *** 4x4 truck. Are you listening ? Are you picking up what I'm laying down ?
Then you go on to say that it's coming in around 3000 rpm's And it seems good.
Fabulous !!!!! That's perfect...3000 rpm is great...Lock it down and move on !!!!!
Your done....You did it !!!!!! :cheers:
I'm not trying to modify how fast my mechanical advance is ll in by lol I'm trying to get a higher initial timing. Right now my mechanical advance plate is 28 degrees so at 34 degrees total timing that lands me at 6 degrees initial timing. All i am trying to do is get a higher initial like 14 to 16 degrees while maintaining my total timing of 34 degrees. And that is why i mentioned buying the limiter plate from don at fbo, i can install the limiter plate to get a higher initial timing while keeping my total timing of 34 degrees. I am not trying to change the rate at wich my mechanical advance is all in by but i have been told if i had the limiter plate it will change it so i was just simply trying to find out what springs i'd have to run to keep it coming all in by 3000 rpm gees sorry didnt mean to ruffle up any feathers.
And my distributer is a mopar electronic vaccume advance distributer but its not the newer version with the adjustable mechanical advance. the distributer i have was purchased brand new in 2001. And it doesnt even have 25 thousand miles on it so i'd hate to throw it away and spend 200 bucks on the newer distributer that has the adjustable mechanical advance when i can buy a limiter plate for 20 bucks and get the initial timing i am looking for. I was just hoping i could find a factory advance plate that has a lower mechanical advance. One gentelman on this site offered to sell me a factory advance plate with 20 degrees of mechanical advance for 10 bucks, i private messaged him if i can get 20 degrees of mechanical advance for 10 bucks and take out my current advance plate for that plate i could run an initial timing of 14 degrees while maintaing 34 degrees of total timing. Sorry i am not trying to annoy anybody here just trying to learn about this stuff the best i can. Hopefully that gentelman will answer me and i can buy the factory advance plate with 20 degrees of mechanical advance from him and install it into my distributer. But i will have to buy a spring kit as well to maintain my mechanical advance coming all in by 3000 rpm.
Buy the plate from Steve for $10 and install it.
Thats what i'd like to do but unfortunetly he has not replied to any of messages??? guess i'll wait till tommarrow and if i dont hear from him i'll buy the limiter plate from fbo, although i'd rather buy the plate from the guy on here.
.........The # means how many *x2 is in ur vac adv........adjust the vac can with an allen wrench.........that changes the position of the plate, therefore limiting the vac adv, then u can up the initial adv.......kim.........
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