if it's something other than a mopar distributor you best check how the tang aligns with rotor tip. My MSD distributor required an install direction different than the way mopar describes (point toward the #1 intake port/bolt/etc.).
True the distributor doesn't matter where #1 is as long as it's wired correctly. I just like to keep things consistent and simple knowing the #1 terminal is near the front of my distributor.
Now THAT does not say much for MSD quality.
I always tell people to "check their timing marks"
1 Get / buy a piston stop like this:
http://www.jerrybramlett.net/images/pic_installation.jpg
Pull the no1 plug, make sure the piston is "down a ways" and install the stop. UNHOOK the battery ground for safety. You may have to play with the length of the device the first time you use it. You are NOT trying to stop the piston "at TDC", but rather, "down a ways."
Wrench the engine around until the piston stops on the device. Make a temporary mark on the balancer, under the TDC mark. Do the same, CCW. You will now have TWO marks, and true TDC will be halfway in between. If the original mark is correct, that is where it will be
2 You don't need no1 compression stroke to install the gear, just bring the engine to TDC on the marks and put it in as mentioned above, the slot pointing to the first bolt of the intake on the driver side. The gear teeth are coarse enough that this will be obvious.
3 There are two easy ways to determine compression. Either look at the no1 valves CAREFULLY, and determine if they ARE BOTH OPEN, or BOTH CLOSED. Compression = both closed.
GET OUT of the habit of setting the timing "at TDC" You actually want the marks to be "wherever you want the timing" That is, (my car) about 14-16* BTC initial.
SO the SECOND way of determing compression is to stick you finger in the no1 plug hole, and bump the starter until you START to feel compression. You may have to go 'round a couple of times the first time you do this
When you feel compression, turn your attention to the timing marks, and wrench / bump the engine until THE MARKS ARE WHERE you want initial timing, IE, my car, 15*.
Take the cap and carefully mark the dist. housing DIRECTLY under the no1 plug tower. I always put a LIGHT file mark on the top of the dist. case. Drop in the dist, rotor close to the no1 tower/ mark.
RETARD the dist -- CW for SB, CCW for B/RB. ADVANCE it back watching the points or reluctor. Bring the advance slowly around until the reluctor tip is centered in the pickup coil core, or with points, us a light/ ohmeter and advance until the points OPEN.
AT THAT POINT the timing should be close enough that it will start and run with no more fooling with the timing, until you get things ready to actually set timing with a lamp.
Once you learn this procedure, you can do it VERY quickly, and will never have to "fiddle" with a distributor again.
My neighbor was amazed. He put a 351C together for an old Ferd pickup, and was having trouble. I went over, stuck my finger in, spun the dist around 180 and set the timing, and then told him to "start it up." He thought I meant "see if it will start."
Brand new engine fired up just like it'd been parked overnight. "How'd you do that??" he says.
