distributor

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terryr

terryr

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I have pulled the distributor on my 225 ,and it seems to have two O rings ,one in the grooved slot and a large one at the bottom of the hold down plate ,I don't think the large one should be there ,as upon replacement the dizzy seems to be moving ,and I don't want to damage the nylon gear as the dizzy seems to be new,ive only just bought the car ,and I don't know too much about slantys
 
As I remember, only the one o-ring in the groove on the shaft. The other will not allow the plastic gear to seat properly. Dennis
 
No. There are (2). One in the groove and one against the plate. Look at the engine block where the distributor seats, it is recessed.
 
The nylon dist gear is very fragile.in fact the slanty is the only one that messes with me.i guess i just dont work on them very often.
 
Looks like only one in the factory service manual. Dennis

Slantdizzy_zpsa3103e29.png
 
Wouldn't be the first thing I have found missing from the FSM! I have been gathering /6 distributors for awhile now, trying to piece together the perfect HEI set-up, and all the ones I have come across have (2). One in the groove which really does not look like an O-Ring and one against the plate,that does look like a true O-Ring.
DSC03789_zps0c6a40b6.jpg
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I'm with you Danarchy,I've seen them with both.And yes the block has a recess for it. I got a NOS one coming this week.I will post if it has both O- rings.
 
:banghead: It came with no O rings. :protest:
 
Two o-rings as pictured are correct starting with the introduction of the slant 6 in 1960 model year. As some commenters have posted, most blocks have a 45 deg. chamfer to accept it. I say most because not all did. I've run across industrial blocks that did not have the relief cut in them. If your block does not have the chamfer, or relief cut, trying to use the upper larger o-ring will not allow the distributor to seat properly and would ultimately destroy the plastic drive gear as others have commented.
 
Danarchy I too am working on a HEI set up for the slant six dizzy. I have a distributor machine that I run them on. This allows me to re-curve them and make adjustments.

I have a couple different setups for adding the HEI to a mopar.
the easiest is an aluminum plate that I mount the HEI on then it is mounted to the bottom of the distributor. I also have the HEI mounted to the E-coil. I like this one best.

If the plastic gear is not set up properly on the distributor you wont have full gear mesh. I check this by using a black sharpy marker. Just remove the dizzy mark the gear teeth reinstall and run the car for a short time. Pull the dizzy a look at the pattern on the gear. If the pattern is low on the teeth the dizzy needs to be lowered. If the pattern is high the teeth the dizzy will need to be raised. This can be accomplished by adding or deleting shims between the gear and body.
 
Cheers guys.i have the both rings fitted..good idea with the marker .i will give it a go
 
the easiest is an aluminum plate that I mount the HEI on then it is mounted to the bottom of the distributor.
Click to expand...
This won't work with a Slant 6, will it?(V8 only) I have a Coil/Heatsink/Module mount, but just haven't had the time yet!
 
have fitted it all back in and it still wobbles and leaks oil,you only need rest your hand on the cap and it stops the movement ,,,maybe the hold down plate is bent ,starting to be a pain in the back side now
 
i think the original question has been answered, but i have to wonder why more people, on stock slants, don't run the Mopar electronic setup instead on the HEI G M setup?i see so many on here going to all the trouble with that, .... i realize the HEI puts out more spark, but is it needed on stock motor? and some years ( don't remember whicH) the Mopar electronic distributor had inherient problems inc spark shatter? i like keeping the old car as much stock as i can without being " a purist extemist!"... LOL
 
barbee6043,

I suspect that most who use the GM HEI module are converting from points. It is a little easier to wire than the Mopar electronic ignition if you don't already have a harness for that. It is also a little better in that you eliminate the ballast resistor, plus easier to find parts.

If your car already has e-ignition (71+?), easiest to stay with the Mopar ECU. Good ECU's are getting harder to find, so some have taken to gutting the case and installing a GM HEI under the cover, to keep the connectors and factory look.
 
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