So I think I have decided to do my own rebuild on my 318 in my 74 Valiant. I have absolutely no experience though and neither does the person that will be helping me. I have a chilton, and a book on "hotrodding" mopar small blocks and I am ordering the Haynes manual. I want to add soem HP while doing this but I need to keep it as simple as possible. So with that said, any pointers on the standard stuff? Any pointers on the HP part? I already know that I need to send the machining stuff out.
DIY Rebuild
- Thread starter xempirex
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omahamoparguy
Well-Known Member
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where to start... U need to find some pistons that will get you some compression (example: Keith Black 167 pistons.) then you can get a set of 360 heads (like on an '85 dodge 1 ton van) they are good and are not prone to cracking. then a small cam will suffice, say for eg., a comp cams high energy about 252 duration ~.460 lift. (I dont know the exact numers off the top of my head) GRab the intake and carb off the van also for a cheap 4 barrel set up. set of cheap (or expensive if U prefer) 1 5/8" diameter tubes Hedders. (stock manifolds would work if cam is not too big).
Standard: get the block bored .030 WITH hone plates installed. (ask the machinist)
get your rods resized and install new bolts in them.
THis will get you started, concentrate on building a good short block first.
Standard: get the block bored .030 WITH hone plates installed. (ask the machinist)
get your rods resized and install new bolts in them.
THis will get you started, concentrate on building a good short block first.
Badart
Senior Member
One thing that you could do if you want to be involved and save a few bucks is take it apart yourself, so you can see the internals of an engine. I am all for doing things myself, but most machine ships will assemble the short block with a warranty for around $250 if they do all of the machine work too.
Valvebounce
Well-Known Member
I'd strongly reccommend you try and aquire a copy of "How to rebuild your small block mopar" by Don taylor and Larry Hofer, if you can find one.
Give it a good read before you even pull the engine down. It'll tell you what to look for at each stage of dissassembly, and might even help you to not damage parts which may be reusable. It doesn't talk about hotting up the motor, but offers a comprehensive guide while is ideal for people with little or no experience with motors.
Give it a good read before you even pull the engine down. It'll tell you what to look for at each stage of dissassembly, and might even help you to not damage parts which may be reusable. It doesn't talk about hotting up the motor, but offers a comprehensive guide while is ideal for people with little or no experience with motors.
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
Yes, they will fit!
They have larger cc's and larger valves but the fitment is the same.
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
That's not dumb at all..
If you don't ask, you will never learn.
The advantage is larger intake runners and larger valves for increased flow.
They will lower compression on a stock 318, so what you would gain in flow would be lost in compression.
A 360 head on a 318 needs to be shaved or the pistons need to be changed in order to gain compression for decent performance.
jaimus
Old School ASE Gold
Once who have everything apart, cataloged, and inspected for cracks, wear, etc, start cleaning to prep for the rebuild. Spend a couple of bucks and have the block professionally hot tanked and inspected by a reputable machine or hot rod shop. Get to know these guys, (buy em a box of doughnuts every now and again), Its nice to have someone local to call when you have a question. When you get the block home clean It completely and blow It dry with compressed air,....then clean It again....Most of the rebuild you can do yourself,..You'll save a ton of cash, plus you'll learn alot,...and don't be afraid to ask questions,...I'm sure anyone on this site will be more than happy to help you out as well...good luck.
jaimus
Old School ASE Gold
Clean all your parts well, then clean em again,...good luck
DusterKrazy
Well-Known Member
Clean is the key!
Keep the area you will be working in C L E A N !!
1.Be sure to lube the bearing surfaces up real good before start up. Believe it or not, Vaseline works great if there is no lube available. Make sure the cam is coated nicely as well. The lifters should spin free in the lifter bores.
2.Clean the parts and clean them again. Especially the oil pump pickup!
3.It is a good idea to get an oil pump primer that goes into a drill because they are not that expensive. It it will also make sure there is some oil being distributed before firing.
4. A distributor wrench is a great thing to have and makes life easier since LA distributors are in the back.
5.When removing the rods and pistons- when you take the nuts and rod caps off, it is never a bad idea to take some 3/8(or 5/16?) rubber fuel line hose and put it over the threaded part of the rod bolt; this way when you hammer the rod and piston out, you won't have to worry about scratching the cylinder wall.
6.After the heads are off and you are ready to remove the pistons/etc, you can take 4 head bolts or so and place them right across from each other(next to the cylinder you are removing the piston from) then slap two rubber bands(thick=best) together and cross them to make an "X"; this will serve as a catch for the rod and piston so that it does not land on the floor or get damaged.
7.Before you even think about firing it, check the fluid levels again- sometimes we rush and mistakes are made.
Good luck and have fun..:cheers:
Keep the area you will be working in C L E A N !!
1.Be sure to lube the bearing surfaces up real good before start up. Believe it or not, Vaseline works great if there is no lube available. Make sure the cam is coated nicely as well. The lifters should spin free in the lifter bores.
2.Clean the parts and clean them again. Especially the oil pump pickup!
3.It is a good idea to get an oil pump primer that goes into a drill because they are not that expensive. It it will also make sure there is some oil being distributed before firing.
4. A distributor wrench is a great thing to have and makes life easier since LA distributors are in the back.
5.When removing the rods and pistons- when you take the nuts and rod caps off, it is never a bad idea to take some 3/8(or 5/16?) rubber fuel line hose and put it over the threaded part of the rod bolt; this way when you hammer the rod and piston out, you won't have to worry about scratching the cylinder wall.
6.After the heads are off and you are ready to remove the pistons/etc, you can take 4 head bolts or so and place them right across from each other(next to the cylinder you are removing the piston from) then slap two rubber bands(thick=best) together and cross them to make an "X"; this will serve as a catch for the rod and piston so that it does not land on the floor or get damaged.
7.Before you even think about firing it, check the fluid levels again- sometimes we rush and mistakes are made.
Good luck and have fun..:cheers:
longarm
Car sold back to original owners
i have used this company many times- good service,
price and parts
northern auto parts- 1-800-831-0884
www.northernautoparts.com
order thier catalog
all thier rebuild kit are upgradable
they also have hp kits
for a cheap rebuild use what you have
if the engine was running fine ie:
no knoxs, cylinder scrathes, cracks, crank is ok
ridge ream if nessasary
deglaze the cylinder bores
clean the block well
rering with cast iron rings
new bearings
new oil pump
new timing set
i always use a new cam & lifters
don't go overboard on the cam
degree the cam if you can
replace springs- a must
regrind valve seats
guides if nessassary
milling the heads will add compression
these motors usually cost less than $500.00
to refresh and run very well
carburation, distributor, exhaust still must be addressed
add a cheap stall convertor around 2200-2400 rpm if you can
you don't have to buy the best name brands to build an
engine that screams
attention to parts that work together will get you to torque
i've refreshed many engines like this and they tear ***
good luck
longarm
price and parts
northern auto parts- 1-800-831-0884
www.northernautoparts.com
order thier catalog
all thier rebuild kit are upgradable
they also have hp kits
for a cheap rebuild use what you have
if the engine was running fine ie:
no knoxs, cylinder scrathes, cracks, crank is ok
ridge ream if nessasary
deglaze the cylinder bores
clean the block well
rering with cast iron rings
new bearings
new oil pump
new timing set
i always use a new cam & lifters
don't go overboard on the cam
degree the cam if you can
replace springs- a must
regrind valve seats
guides if nessassary
milling the heads will add compression
these motors usually cost less than $500.00
to refresh and run very well
carburation, distributor, exhaust still must be addressed
add a cheap stall convertor around 2200-2400 rpm if you can
you don't have to buy the best name brands to build an
engine that screams
attention to parts that work together will get you to torque
i've refreshed many engines like this and they tear ***
good luck
longarm
19cummins92
Member
In my opinion if your only putting a mild cam in and swapping to a four barrel stick with the 318 heads. The amount of machine work to make the 360 heads usefull outweighs the advantages. i would say have your 318 heads resurfaced, grind the valves and seats, and replace the seals. Then down the road if you want more power buy some aluminum heads. Just my opinion.
Late comer to the thread.
This question and many more can be answer with a book or two which I highly recomend you get in your rebuild effort. They are;
"How to rebuild your small block MoPar"
"How to hot rod your small block MoPar"
MoPar also has there "Engines" book just for the small block.
From these books, I have built my first and umteenth engine with great results.
Also, 19cummings92 makes excellent sense. The 318 heads will do very well.
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