dizzy problems

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jonesscamp1973

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Well i just changed out my distributo . And think i didnt put in in place woth number one plug .so i put it in line with plug one and brought it to tdc bit the markings on balancer and timing cover r not aligned. Pleaze help 1973 plymouth scamp slant 6
 
Aftermarket distributor?

Sometimes you have to pull the oil pump drive gear and shaft up and turn it until you can get the alignment you want.

Unless it's a Briggs Stratton you are working on, because they don't have distributors. :D
 
Your dizzy only goes in two ways.
The right way.
And the wrong way.
 
tekslk said:
Your dizzy only goes in two ways.
The right way.
And the wrong way.
Click to expand...

Yep, for a factory distributor that's the only two choices.
Now I hesitate to tell about the gear, as you might just get into wrong deeper.
 
TrailBeast said:
Yep, for a factory distributor that's the only two choices.
Now I hesitate to tell about the gear, as you might just get into wrong deeper.
Click to expand...

We are not talking about a small block, we are talking about a slant.
The distributor drive gear is on the camshaft.
 
jonesscamp1973 said:
Well i just changed out my distributo . And think i didnt put in in place woth number one plug .so i put it in line with plug one and brought it to tdc bit the markings on balancer and timing cover r not aligned. Pleaze help 1973 plymouth scamp slant 6
Click to expand...

First you need to find true tdc on the compression stroke.
Use a tdc tool to do this.

Once you find tdc, install the distributor (not dizzy) so the rotor lines up with the no.1 wire in the distributor cap. Usually you have to clock the rotor back a bit, so when you install the dist, it rotates to the no.1 wire.
Trial and error, or practice, and you will get it.

Tip: Take an old distributor cap and cut the no.1 tower of it. Basically so there is a 1/2" hole on no.1
This way, when you drop the distributor in, you can see the rotor through the no.1 hole.
Again, practice makes perfect.
 
jonesscamp1973 said:
Well i just changed out my distributo . And think i didnt put in in place woth number one plug .so i put it in line with plug one and brought it to tdc bit the markings on balancer and timing cover r not aligned. Pleaze help 1973 plymouth scamp slant 6
Click to expand...

Does yours have a plastic distributor gear? You must be careful with it. What you may be fighting is, the helix on the gears causes it to turn as you set it in there. This can "move things" and cause the oil pump drive to "not line up."

The other thing "you fight" with slants is the adjustment. Look at the adjustment bracket. There's a slot in the bracket at the engine bolt and there is ANOTHER slot and bolt up under the dist.

BE GENTLE!!

Loosen the bolt under the dist so you can move the bracket some

Don't be afraid to turn / bump the engine to line up the oil shaft if it won't "set down in." Be careful not to force the thing.

You don't "static time" it by looking at only the rotor, you look at rotor position and then turn so the points just open (or reluctor position on electronic)

==========================================

How I did them:

Replace the dist hopefully same as old one. If the thing drops clear in and engages the oil pump, set the timing marks to where you want the timing NOT at TDC, and "see where you are"

If points, rotate the dist CW (retard) the back CCW (advanced) until the points just open. Use a test lamp. With electronic, rotate dist. body so that reluctor tip is centered in pickup coil.

See where the rotor ends up. or if you cannot get the distributor "into" a correct position above^

Then note which way it has to go and simply lift it out, and estimate, and move it. The gear helix will cause things to move. The oil pump probably won't engage.

Simply GENTLY bump the engine until the pump engages, and the dist goes down. Bring the timing marks around again to where you want timing, and reset. If you did this right, "this time" the rotor will be where you want.

Finally set timing. You can even pre-set timing "on the starter"
 
Sorry been working alot . Its. Not points its electric ignition. How will i know if the oil pump gear lines up. This is driving crazy she started first time befor the dist. Got replaced .
 
jonesscamp1973 said:
Sorry been working alot . Its. Not points its electric ignition. How will i know if the oil pump gear lines up. This is driving crazy she started first time befor the dist. Got replaced .
Click to expand...

You get the gear as close as you can and GENTLY push down GENTLY on the distributor

Once you get the dist. 'all the way down' you recheck the rotor is "right" and then last, adjust the dist timing via looking at the reluctor/ pickup coil.

If you do this right it should fire right up.

EDIT I'd forgotten slants dont drive the pump off the distributor, a "Chiffy moment"
 
I have a spare distributor cap with a slot cut out of the side under number one so I can see the rotor. With the engine at top dead center, firing stroke on number one, the rotor tip must be just a bit ahead of plug wire tower number one. Use a dremel tool cut off wheel to cut the slot.

Without this, there is a lot of guessing and hoping things will line up because of the helical cut to the distributor gear.

Another helpful hint: mark the plug wires for cylinder numbers before taking anything apart, and leave the wires in the and cap, remove the wires from the plugs, and set cap and wires aside, out of your way when playing around with a slant distributor.

Sam
 
LMAO. You don't need all that fancy nonsense. Just take a marker and set the cap on there and mark the side of the dist in the center of the no1 tower. If you want, you can make a light file / scribe mark so you don't "lose" it.

I will admit, I never looked forwards to screwin with slant distributors "down there"
 
I have never heard of bumping the starter to pop a slant distributor in. Sounds like a great way to grind the, already brittle, plastic dist gear into junk. I would not advise this. Plus you are bumping the motor off TDC, making it next to impossible to drop it in the right spot.

Get the motor on TDC.
Drop the distributor in, so the rotor faces the no.1 tower on the cap.
Its really that simple.
 
Laugh if you want, but I have been fooling with these slants since 1972, and that spare cap with the slot in it saves a lot of time, and completely eliminates one source of possible trouble. It takes ten minutes to make. Save your old cap next time you tune it up.

Another tip: if you can find a late model distributor, the hold down plate on those is a ring like the V8s, that gives complete freedom of movement when timing. Be sure to get the hold down clamp too. You should find them in 80s trucks and vans.

Sam
 
Ok did all that . No i am not getting fire to my coil . She has old brittle wiring . Thank every one for their help.
 
jonesscamp1973 said:
Ok did all that . No i am not getting fire to my coil . She has old brittle wiring . Thank every one for their help.
Click to expand...

Fire to,or out of?No voltage to it could be simply the ballast resistor,no spark
out could be anything including that.But there are threads about checking that in this and the
elec. forum on this site.
The pump gear is entirely irrelevent,other than it is driven by the same cam
gear.I know I'm now the umpteenth to give you install timing advice,but I'll give it anyway.

1)find #1 compression by pressure method,best done w/ a compression test hose w/o
the gauge, or the watch the valves method. With the valve cover off,the valves will cycle
exh./int.,after the intake closes the next tdc will be the comp. one-simple enuff?
2)set the timing marks at the initial timing you want,lets say 7deg. Look at the dist.
post for #1, follow it to the dist body and mark the body,then put the cap aside.
3)the dist shaft will turn as you drop it home when the gears engage,I honestly forget
which direction,but it doesn't matter as you will see on a test drop.Simply fudge the rotor
the opposite direction so it turns towards your mark as you drop it in.Once seated look at
the reluctor wheel tooth closest to the pick-up core bar,you should be able to swing the
dist. to move the pick-up to either side of the tooth.
4)once you're there,turn the dist clockwise of the tooth,then bring it back to just past
(a tick counter-clockwise)of the tooth and lock 'er down.
5)I have initial timed just about every new eng. build I've ever done like this and never
have been more than 3-4deg off. Excessive cranking being the death of new cams, I've
used this and primed full carbs to ensure immediate starts.....every time.
Hope this helps and good luck!!:coffee2:
 
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