Dodge Dart Lite

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Deb taped up the new grill turn signal lamp lenses while I kept wire brushing the under carriage
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I think her tape job was money.
Old one in the center.
 
Brake work.
I thought I knew how to do drum brakes.
But now not so sure.
I ordered a hardware set from Classic MN8026.
My shoes came from NAPA.
So the FSM says you might have shoes that take the pin-wavy washer-horseshoe clip for parking brake.
Or a rectangular hole in the shoe web.
I have the rectangular hole.
Notice the spring hole.
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Neither shoe has a spring hole that would work with this short black spring for the primary shoe.
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So I cleaned and painted a couple of the old springs I took off.
The longer red one.
FSM shows a 9 inch and 10 inch assembly.
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9 inch short, 10 inch long.
So lets move to the self adjuster.
The adjuster in the kit and matching the old one, does not really line up with adjustment slot.
Maybe just a corner, that is it, so how is that supposed to work.
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Then the adjuster cam spring, the one in the kit hit the body of the star wheel body.
Here is the new beside the old.
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See the big bend in the new red one, no worky.
So am I the first one having these issues?
Anyway I think I have it all together, but I see no way that they will "self adjust"
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Hard to see the Adjuster Overload Spring and Cable but they are there.
I understand they adjust when you go in reverse.
But I don't see how the cam gets to the bottom of the star wheel.
I don't see that much motion.
 
pull on the cable towards the shoe and that should show the movement and give you a "click", one click only Mr.Tulley.
 
As for tires you could run 235/60R15 on 7" wheels on the front and 245/60R15 on 8" wheels on the rear no problem .
 
Of course the drivers side had issues also.
I could not get the secondary spring to sit right and hold the cable guide down flat.
The spring was hitting the parking brake cam/lever.
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So a little grinding was needed.
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And I got my second leanto completed!
This is where the Lite will sit after I get the doors back on and the rear back in.
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pull on the cable towards the shoe and that should show the movement and give you a "click", one click only Mr.Tulley.
I hear you, but pulling the cable makes it lift up above center and nothing happens.
It has to be below the star wheel to make it turn out.
It's like the cable is too short.
 
I had this problem back when, does the lever have a "lip" on it?
Seems it should sit below the center line of the adjuster. I looked in an 83 Chiltons manual in the "universal" brake section. Not a good enough drawing. The two brake component catalogs I have do not include any pictures/diagrams. The one thing I did notice was there was a spring to the cable from the shoe. Is that on yours or maybe a different year design?
 
Yes it has a spring, it's called an Overload Spring.
You can see it on the FSM picture.
 
Not a reference restoration, but here is the body fuel line routing if anyone needs it.
I forgot to say, the starting point needs to be right at the bench seat support bracket.
There is a small clip that goes there and you can not get it in if you start at the back and work forward.
Fuel Line Route (2).jpg
Fuel Line Route (3).jpg
Fuel Line Route (4).jpg
Fuel Line Route (5).jpg
Fuel Line Route (6).jpg
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Fuel Line Route (7).jpg
 
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So there is an 8 3/4 living where the 7 and nothing lived before.
Feels good to getting back to putting things in and not taking them out!
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Anyway I think I have it all together, but I see no way that they will "self adjust
The 69 up self adjuster pull up on the star wheel where the 68 and older pushed down.

The spring in the 69 up adjuster cable prevents excess adjustment while the 68 down would stop adjusting when the adjuster stopped hitting the star wheel ( or at least that's how I understand it)
 
The 69 up self adjuster pull up on the star wheel where the 68 and older pushed down.

The spring in the 69 up adjuster cable prevents excess adjustment while the 68 down would stop adjusting when the adjuster stopped hitting the star wheel ( or at least that's how I understand it)
Thanks for the explanation, seems to fit how it all installed.
 
The brake shoe manufacturers assigned a id number to identify the various brake shoes.
333 and 445 are the industry numbers for Chrysler 10 inch brakes.
333 shoes were used from the 60's thru 75.
445 shoes were from 77-89 passenger cars.
1976 was a transition year so either one could be found in 76.
The problem is they take different hardware kits as you found out with the return springs.

445 shoes use hardware kit for Volare Aspen Diplomat etc.
333 shoes from 70-75 use hardware kit for Valiant Dart Duster.
For 76 you will have to find out which shoe you have and buy the appropriate kit.
You can use either shoes with the right kit but it is simpler to match you're original shoes and hardware.
Raybestos still has both number shoes.

Sounds like you have solved your issue but thought this might help some people.
 
Got the front end adjusted from when the PO hit the drivers front.
It's not perfect but good enough.
Started fitting the grill and had to add one bracket to the 76 drinkers side fender.
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Been working on my son's ferd suv.
Nothing but water leaks.

I got some more floor pans cleaned.
Mounted 2 tires and played with some more junk.
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Bunch of little stuff.
I purchased a 73 Duster Bench seat locally in Dallas.
It had headrests.
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After getting it home it wasn't what I thought it would be.
Duster seat much different from my 76 Dart seat.
Someone had made the headrest slides from aluminum.
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So I am going to use the headrest because they are correct, but the slides are weird.
I had found the side catches on facebook.
I could not get the knobs off till today.
If you clamp them in a vice you can hit them with a rubber mallet from the rear they will come off.
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I also fixed a cracked mount bracket on the heater control panel I got from Rat Rod Al.
JB Weld and a little piece of aluminum.
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Finally I started looking at the engine harness, but I can't find this on the schematic, any ideas?
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Gas tank day.
OER pickup from Classic.
It does not fit so I called them, are you guys seeing complaints from customers?
Response, well someone said in the comments, "you have to bend the tube to get it to fit"
Ok, I guess that is your QA process.
In this picture you can see it's at the bottom of the tank, but the flange is at a big angle.
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This is where it has to be bent to raise the sock.
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This is after a couple of trial fits.
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So that sucks, but it can be fixed with effort.
Gas Tank Mat
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Installed
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And does this make the tank better?
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