Does this belong in the garbage?

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Joined
Jun 28, 2022
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Monterey, CA
Found this in my trunk. Looks pretty rough.

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FWIW, I had one just like that that I pirated the splined steel center from to make my reproduction Tuff Wheel adaptor.
 

Swap meet guys will ask $125 and take $100. Looks like early A or B with a center button and no horn ring.
 
$75 ? Heck I scrap better ones than that. I would repair that before I paid $75 for one in that shape..
 
Maybe a rally wheel, but not a standard wheel. Might find someone who needs it all cracked up for $25.
 
No, IMO it's worth at least $75 USD.
Like I posted, in my opinion!
Keep in mind, restoration is expensive., but come a day you'll be happy to get one in that shape.

I sell parts, that is where I'd start out at, probably take $40-50 for it, especially if it was a repeat customer. You have to start at a price somewhere. Stop thinking it's the 80's and 90's. Those prices are long gone. Hell, I've seen them listed here for $400, abiet in better shape.
 
Right on this forum. Try searching......and good luck cause the search function leaves a lot to be desired.
Yeah. Gotta use the + sign to string words together and get close to what forum or thread to search, otherwise you end up with endless amounts is random results....

Oh, and go to the advanced search and change the sort to "By Date" .. so you don't end up with a bunch of necro-posts.
 
It's the ribbed portion of the spokes that's the pain to try to repair and make look good. The other cracks aren't bad at all to fill and smooth out. I repaired the same wheel off my '66 Dart and just filled those ribbed scallops with epoxy. Made for a cleaner look anyway in my opinion.
 
Dang, I have a 67-69 standard 3 spoke that looks just like that, I was going to toss it, they make repos of it, so I thought it was worthless.
 
Buy a kit of the two-part epoxy that is the consistency of putty. Then you start out by beveling the edges of each crack with about 120 grit sandpaper. Then I wrap two layers of masking tape on each side of the crack. Place the tape right up to the edge of the bevel. That way the epoxy putty will fill the crack and the bevel but not go beyond the bevel. Then you cut off equal amounts of the epoxy and knead them together thoroughly. Then fill in the crack. Press the epoxy in firmly. You don't want any air bubbles. Make sure you fill the crack, but don't overfill it; the epoxy isn't really easy to sand. It's kind of like body filler. Don't slop on too much, or you will be sanding all day. Then sand the epoxy until its surface is flush with the surface on each side of the crack. I'd start with 120 and end with 320. Then I'd use a skim coat of filler of a spot putty to smooth it out and fill sanding scratches. Then sand, prime and paint the wheel. Eastwood sells a steering wheel repair kit. I haven't used it, but Eastwood stuff is usually pretty good.
 
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