Door is starting to sag, what to get and where?

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moparfreak77

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I just noticed the past 2 days that the drivers door is starting to sag. The thing that sucks is that it was rubbing on the trim between the door and the quarter window. I took the trim off to save it from more damage but I would really like to get the door problem fixed. It looks like just the lower hinge has play in it. Is there a kit to fix this? where is a good place? thanks
 
You can get new pins and bushings kits from any Mopar supplier or even just the bushings from any parts store. Happens all the time, especially on the more often used driver side.
 
The parts store (HELP section) will have a pin/bushing kit. It will have extra parts that you won't use. Most likely the top hinge is all you'll need to fix. If you'd like, scribe around the hinges on the door side for re-alignment later. Remove the door leaving the hinges attached to the body. Drive the old pin out with a hammer and remove bushing. Reverse the process with new parts to reassemble.
 
Got mine from Napa last month for my 74 Duster. I havn't put them in yet but plan to this weekend.
If you'd like, scribe around the hinges on the door side for re-alignment later. Remove the door leaving the hinges attached to the body. Drive the old pin out with a hammer and remove bushing. Reverse the process with new parts to reassemble

It seems pretty straighforward.
 
even tracing the outline of the hinges, they were totally off. I didnt replace the top because there was no slack in it. I had to replace the bottom only. It took me one solid day to get the door "locked-in" to posititon. I still need to tweek the striker. But wow, what a difference. The door closes much nicer, and I don't have to pick up on the handle to close it.
 
moparfreak77, Here's where I screwed up. I took the whole door off the car. That was easy since I thought both hinges had to come off. Not true, only the lower hinge was replaced. I did trace the hinges, but that didn't work for me either. I had 2 sets of hinges. I bought a pair off e-bay and had them dropped off at a shop to be rebuilt. I did see a door alignment tool in eastwood and thought about that, but never used it. Looking back I wish I did buy it. Any way, take your time, and only adjust one hinge at a time. Try with the lower hinge first. Then if you want try the top. Most of the time it's the lower hinge anyway. Put a floor jack under the door, make sure to use a lot of padding.
 

so you think it would be easier to take just one hinge off and fix it, put it back on before I take the other one off? thanks a lot
 
Yes try that. Use a jack and position it under the door so it dosnt move. Make sure you have plenty of padding to protect your door. Replace the lower hinge (scribe it's location) replace the hinge. Then try the door. If it needs to be adjusted, place the jack under the door and ajust one hinge at a time until the door fits.
 
I have a better trick, it works great for retaining factory alignment. I use this anytime I take a body panel off and want to keep factory alignment. I agree with Mick, do one hinge at a time. Before you lossen and bolts, drill a small hole (1/8" to 3/16") directly through the hinge base into the door jamb plate. Next screw a self tapping screw into the hole, then you can take the hinge off. When you put the hinge back on, run the screw through the holes, then pop the bolts back in. It might not be perfect, but it will be damn close!

Also a second possibility might be removing the front fender and repairing the hinge from the door jamb while the door is latched. This should be a lot easier.
 
Stupid question maybe but i have to learn somehow...is it possible to pound out the pin from the bottom, separate the lower hinge, pound out the old bushings and replace with new ones and install the pin? that would save adjusting the door. or if i cant would it be worth taking the time to take the fender off and do it that way? hopefully get them tomorrow and put them in. thanks a lot guys.
 
I've done this many times on A and B bodies. I agree with several of the suggestions about doing the lower hinge only, jacking the door and the pilot hole.. BUT. Especially if you are doing this as a one man project, Try to avoid taking the fender off to eliminate risking chipped paint. plus realinging the fender can be a real pain. In any case a couple layors of masking tape on door and fender edges will help some. If you can, remove the splash shield in the fender well. Sometimes the bolts are rusted and you cant. If you can get it off, you will have access to the door hinge from there. First open the door and remove the 2 closest lower door bolts, the third you will get off thru the wheel well with the door closed. Drill your pilot hole from the interior, remove the interior hinge bolts and close the door. Go in the wheel well and remove the remaining bolts. When you reinstall repaired hinge, use a drill bit to locate the pilot hole. Lightly bolt the hinge to cowl and place 1 bolt in the door thru the hole in hinge, snug this one first, then the tighten hinge to cowl making sure you get the bit out.. Open door carefully and replace cowl bolts and door bolts. From there it is a matter of adjusting till you get a good fit.
 
About 20 years ago my lower door hinge had slack in it causing the door to sag. I loosened the body to hinge bolts, closed the door, and with the kick panel off applied pressure to push the hing bolt toward the rear of the car and they tightened it. Then open the door and and tighten the other bolts. Greased it up and it still opens and closes perfectly to this day. If your hinge is really bad it will need new bushing but I would slide that hinge back in the mean time so you don't have to slam the door and end up breaking the stiker.
 
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