daredevil
Well-Known Member
Cop wheels are 15,s bbp for big brakes.
Drilling axels and drums from SBP to LBP ??
- Thread starter pettybludart
- Start date
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72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Hmm ok I thought they were a about thing as my scamp had one on it when I got it
I did my axles myself on a mill. If you are going to thread them for threaded studs use a fixture to make sure they are threaded straight or your studs will be crooked. I didn't think there was enough room for pressed in studs , but there is with the correct studs. I just bought an old race car with pressed studs used in them.
The problem you will run into is on the later axles there is ballance holes opposite of the access holes for bearing retainer placement. I made a tranfer plate to locate the holes in the center of the SB hole and these balance holes. The earlier axles do not have these holes and are better to use.
The reason I drilled mine was to keep the same width rear flange to flange. and to use my same brakes and backing plates. After-market axles and C-bodies you will gain 1 inch width.
As far as strength, The studs are closer to the outside edge. But for them to move out the others have to move in. With all five lugs on you won't have a problem. A center bushing should also be used to enlarge the axle center if your concerned. But with Drag-lites and other wheels the center is larger then the axle flange anyway. Even with big bolt.
I have seen many SB 4spd drag cars back in the day with slicks launch hard without a problem. I never had a problem with mine. One thing I can tell you is if you do go this route you will have to use 1/4 inch spacers to keep most 4 1/2 bolt factory wheels off the spring. But spacing your wheels out is not a problem. Try and move them in with the rear to wide.
I always had these big tires in the pic below and never had a problem .Over 3000 lbs. 800+ at the crank at 8000. I have seen guys switch axles from one side to another. when replacing there axles. Don't ever do this they will twist the splines off . They are already flexed in one dirrection going the other way makes them weak. Also make sure the rear is straight in the car. In most all cars beside HP. 4spd cars they are not. You can shim the front mounts. If your car wants to turn in the bleach box you need to address this first. The spring mount on the chassis should be the same distance from the hole in the frame rail dirrectly in front of it. This will get you close. If this is not correct you may break an axle. Chassis set up is critical even on a factory body. Do not assume yours is correct. 90% are not.
If you do the front you may need spacers with factory steelies. some wheels may fit without a problem. I have a set of axles from a car I bought with the drums. They spin true I had them in my lathe to check them. make an offer.
The problem you will run into is on the later axles there is ballance holes opposite of the access holes for bearing retainer placement. I made a tranfer plate to locate the holes in the center of the SB hole and these balance holes. The earlier axles do not have these holes and are better to use.
The reason I drilled mine was to keep the same width rear flange to flange. and to use my same brakes and backing plates. After-market axles and C-bodies you will gain 1 inch width.
As far as strength, The studs are closer to the outside edge. But for them to move out the others have to move in. With all five lugs on you won't have a problem. A center bushing should also be used to enlarge the axle center if your concerned. But with Drag-lites and other wheels the center is larger then the axle flange anyway. Even with big bolt.
I have seen many SB 4spd drag cars back in the day with slicks launch hard without a problem. I never had a problem with mine. One thing I can tell you is if you do go this route you will have to use 1/4 inch spacers to keep most 4 1/2 bolt factory wheels off the spring. But spacing your wheels out is not a problem. Try and move them in with the rear to wide.
I always had these big tires in the pic below and never had a problem .Over 3000 lbs. 800+ at the crank at 8000. I have seen guys switch axles from one side to another. when replacing there axles. Don't ever do this they will twist the splines off . They are already flexed in one dirrection going the other way makes them weak. Also make sure the rear is straight in the car. In most all cars beside HP. 4spd cars they are not. You can shim the front mounts. If your car wants to turn in the bleach box you need to address this first. The spring mount on the chassis should be the same distance from the hole in the frame rail dirrectly in front of it. This will get you close. If this is not correct you may break an axle. Chassis set up is critical even on a factory body. Do not assume yours is correct. 90% are not.
If you do the front you may need spacers with factory steelies. some wheels may fit without a problem. I have a set of axles from a car I bought with the drums. They spin true I had them in my lathe to check them. make an offer.
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