Drilling axels and drums from SBP to LBP ??

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pettybludart

pettybludart

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I,d like to maintain my power drum brakes(5x4 sbp)on my 68 Barracuda.I have some(5x4.5)Cop rims I,d like to put on the car.Who has drilled the front drums,rear axels and drums?Was it an easy job doing the fronts?Removing the axels to be drilled isn,t hard for me,but have never seen the front drums done.Any help or pics of anybody doing this conversion would help.Thanks
 
my front drums are drilled been 7.40 with them no problems..back axles drilled on brother in law car been 6.20 no problem....i'll get you some pics tomm. since i already have the wheels off..also i plan to remove the front drums soon (real) soon if you are not in a hurry i'll sell you my stuff..lol will get pics tomm. mike:D
 
Hey Scott

I had Forest & Forest in Ayr do my front drum brakes and rear brakes and axles in a 71 Duster I used to have. Price was very reasonable I thought too :thumbrig:

Cheers
Derrick
 
I drilled mine out on a drill press. Used a 4 to 4.5 adapter and knocked out the 4.5 studs. Then nutted the adapter down to the hub and drum and used adapter for a guide. Added a washer on the stud so they wouldnt pull thru since the hub is a little thinner there as insurance.
 
63Belvedere said:
Hey Scott

I had Forest & Forest in Ayr do my front drum brakes and rear brakes and axles in a 71 Duster I used to have. Price was very reasonable I thought too :thumbrig:

Cheers
Derrick
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Thanks for the tips guys.Derrick,can you PM me a number for Forest&Forest?
Earthmover,I,m not racing the 68 Cuda I,d like to do a Pro-Mod with the car
 
oh no i didnt mean you was going to race them i was just saying i had race my junk with no problems with it.. cool.
 
heres a couple pics
 

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Those studs get a bit too close to the edge of the hub for me to feel comfortable.
 
cudamark said:
Those studs get a bit too close to the edge of the hub for me to feel comfortable.
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Sure is less meat left on some edges of the studs then others from looking at the picture.

I have always thought about steel wheel adapters instead of alunimun. I would have them made them hub centric.
 
looks great ...just like my drums i have i think 3" studs as well..raced and drove it on the street that way.....
 
If all my power drum brakes were,nt new,I,d just switch all to LBP(I have UCA,spindles for LBP)I,d also like the option to switch back to SBP if I ever wanted to maintain stock.Decisions,decisions:banghead:
 
Go Lrg bolt pattern now Scott. You'll be glad you did. I wish I did sooner. Buying rims is a nightmare with Sm bolt pattern, and they are not near as strong.
 
MtNemoMopar said:
Go Lrg bolt pattern now Scott. You'll be glad you did. I wish I did sooner. Buying rims is a nightmare with Sm bolt pattern, and they are not near as strong.
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Hey CurlySue.I,ve already got the 15 inch LBP Cop rims,just need to have drums and axels drilled.I got a phone # from Derrick(Henry J)for a place up in Ayre(Forest and Forest)says he had his done for under $200.This is cheaper than buying new axels,discs,calipers,pads,drums,hoses(front and rear).Plus this will give me something to do over the winder months.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Sure is less meat left on some edges of the studs then others from looking at the picture.

I have always thought about steel wheel adapters instead of alunimun. I would have them made them hub centric.
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Its only the pic. I was told to do this by my friend Bruce. He has a duster thats a low 10 bracket car. He,s been running this setup for 10 years leaving at 5k on a trans brake lifting the tires a foot every pass. If they would break he would have broke them.An aluminum rim or et spoke wheel would break before you pulled these studs out.
 
i dont think that most take in to acc. that the head of the stud is larger then the stud and that's what make it look like its really close to the edge.... but like you said people have been running cars like this for years.....i have a set of small bolt axles that is for sell,but everybody wants big bolt so i may just drill them and sell them..:prayer:
 
daredevil said:
Its only the pic. I was told to do this by my friend Bruce. He has a duster thats a low 10 bracket car. He,s been running this setup for 10 years leaving at 5k on a trans brake lifting the tires a foot every pass. If they would break he would have broke them.An aluminum rim or et spoke wheel would break before you pulled these studs out.
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i am glad to find this thread.i bought some cast aluminum 4 to 4.5 wheel adaptors from transdapt(through summit) and i will tell you they are pieces of sh#t.dont ever use these or run them. after using them for ONE day, i pulled my front wheels off and they were cracked (summit gave me a full refund).they are way more dangerous than redrilling the drums and axles (imo). so i am going to drill mine out,besides being cost effective and having the option of going back to a 4" pattern,i dont like the way that extra 1 inch makes the wheels stick out(i know call me picky) my question is would it hurt to weld the studs to the front drums from the back for extra insurance or is it really necessary? i to will use a 4 to 4.5 adaptor as a template and just go for it . i read somewhere that a guy says there is not enough meat on the rear axles and warned against it but ive read where there is plenty and people are doing it all the time. does anyone know someone who has actually broken a redrilled axle or drum? i wont be racing with this setup but i will run my 4.5 centerlines lol
 
pettybludart said:
Hey CurlySue.I,ve already got the 15 inch LBP Cop rims,just need to have drums and axels drilled.I got a phone # from Derrick(Henry J)for a place up in Ayre(Forest and Forest)says he had his done for under $200.This is cheaper than buying new axels,discs,calipers,pads,drums,hoses(front and rear).Plus this will give me something to do over the winder months.
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LOL...yer an ***. Don't be so cheap. Get the good stuff. Plus, the center receiver is probably smaller, and thats where all the strength is.
 
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