drilling vs reamer

[abdywgn]

In another post, is the question about drilling out a ball joint from 1/2" to 9/16". IF you had a drill press with the capacity for a 9/16" drill bit, would that be the best to use or a straight ( not tappered ) reamer? Pardon me if I am not using the correct terminology. I know there are some that are stepped, so if one was available that was 1/2" at the tip and then 9/16" after, would that be easier to use or make a opening? not doing it, just curious and want to pick the brains out there. Thanks!

 

[dano]

The ball joint stud is tapered and you want the spindle hole to match. From my understanding a ream can cut to a tighter and more consistent tolerance than a drill bit.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You use both when you need precision. You drill to an undersize and then ream to the final size. Much like a valve guide, but of course in your situation you need a taper.

 

[mopar head]

You`d have to use a tapered reamer.

 

[4spdragtop]

Are you talking drilling/reaming mount holes? Those arent tapered I believe?
Tie rod mount hole is.

In another post, is the question about drilling out a ball joint from 1/2" to 9/16". IF you had a drill press with the capacity for a 9/16" drill bit, would that be the best to use or a straight ( not tappered ) reamer? Pardon me if I am not using the correct terminology. I know there are some that are stepped, so if one was available that was 1/2" at the tip and then 9/16" after, would that be easier to use or make a opening? not doing it, just curious and want to pick the brains out there. Thanks!

 

[mopar head]

the question about drilling out a ball joint from 1/2" to 9/16".

You`d have to use a tapered reamer.

Are you talking drilling/reaming mount holes?

 

[67Dart273]

I think he's referring to the mount holes, but even though not tapered, those are fairly precision holes, not the 'ol 'waller the 1/4" drill around until it's about 9/16.'

So drilling undersize and then reaming to size is likely a good idea. I do NOT know, however, what you want for a starting hole. Might depend on the reamer.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You`d have to use a tapered reamer.

Yeah I said he needed the taper.

 

[mopar head]

Yeah I said he needed the taper.

I don`t know why my post shows 3 minutes apart while yours showed up as I was typing mine.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don`t know why my post shows 3 minutes apart while yours showed up as I was typing mine.

It's the internet. No biggie.

 

[4spdragtop]

Agreed Del no taper required, but a reamer would be required.

I think he's referring to the mount holes, but even though not tapered, those are fairly precision holes, not the 'ol 'waller the 1/4" drill around until it's about 9/16.'

So drilling undersize and then reaming to size is likely a good idea. I do NOT know, however, what you want for a starting hole. Might depend on the reamer.

 

[ch1ll]

The tapered hole that a ball joint fits in is I believe a locking tapered, less than 3 degrees included angle. To ream it to a larger size like noted is not only alot of stock to take out, the reamer must run against the stop on the drill press taking out a little at a time or it will grab the reamer and break it. Work piece must also be clamped to the table. Using a negative rake twisted flute tapered reamer will work best. It's best to have an experienced machinist do the work.

 

[crackedback]

I think he's asking about the 2 bolt holes that hold the ball joint assembly to the spindle,

not the ball joint pin to the spindle

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

i used a straight reamer. They are usually chamfered on the end to get you started. Do index the part in a mill or very rigid drill press if you have access to one. Make sure to use moderate speed, heavy feed and some cutting or honing oil.

i assume wea are drilling drum brake ball joints for a disc brake application.

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

A drill bit is a terribly imprecise way to drill a hole if you want precision because they wobble around. Drill presses are to sloppy in the quill to drill a nice round hole.

Using a Bridgeport, or similar mill will allow a pretty precise hole because the quill is more robust. I lock the quill and crank the knee up into the bit and you can get a pretty round hole.

When I made dies we drilled and reamed all the holes. More precise hole we would use a boring bar and bore them in and then ream. Some die parts were made with .0002" tolerance.

Unless you have a way to hold the part rock solid and keep the reamer rigid you won't get a really round hole, but it all depends on the lever lof precision you need or want.

Tom

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

Here's an Opal GT spindle I ream the top side ball joint hole larger so it will take a VW Beetle ball joint. The bottom fits fine and doesn't need any reaming.

I make the cups to press the ball joints in and fabricate the upper and lower control arms for race car front suspensions using this setup.

The Opal spindles are forged steel and use the same size bearings as an Anglia, so it's easy to get spindle mount wheels for this setup.

Don't laugh at the radial drill, but it's the only thing we have that holds the Morse taper reamers we have in the correct 7 degrees taper angle needed.

So if you've got a hole that needs reamed I can take care of it. Oh and I do machine work on the side.

Tom

 

[Jeremiah (jd)]

I treeeeeed you lol.

That's a neat old eadial drill press!

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

In another post, is the question about drilling out a ball joint from 1/2" to 9/16". IF you had a drill press with the capacity for a 9/16" drill bit, would that be the best to use or a straight ( not tapered ) reamer?

If you need to drill a hole over the 1/2" size you can buy Silver & Deming drill bit that maintains a 1/2" shank, but allows you to get a bit all the way up to 1" in size.

You can buy them in set like this set, or you can buy individual bits. They are actually very reasonably price for what they allow a guy to do at home.

Using a reamer in my opinion requires a good rigid setup because those reamers will eat the metal out really fast even if you have it at the wrong angle.

Tom

https://www.amazon.com/EFFICERE-Silver-Deming-Bit-Set/dp/B074GYFPL4?tag=fabo03-20 $32.85

 

[abdywgn]

thank-you all for your replies/insight. and yes, it would be the two lower mounting holes that would be enlarged.
ProStockTom, that is one neat looking piece of machinery! what is the spindle going to be used on?

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

thank-you all for your replies/insight. and yes, it would be the two lower mounting holes that would be enlarged.
ProStockTom, that is one neat looking piece of machinery! what is the spindle going to be used on?

It(they) will be going on the frontend of a top secret AMC Hornet Hatchback project. LOL

Tom