Drive shaft thoughts

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MOPARMAGA

MOPARMAGA

" The other hard member"
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I know a guy that is selling drive shafts from dodge 3/4 and 1 tons, same from c word and f word hd trucks, I believe most are aluminum.
I was wondering if it would be okay- wize to get 1 with 1350 u-joints & have it cut down, welded & balanced. I believe they are mostly 4 & 5 inch diameter.
2nd question can a stock floor pan fit a 5 inch.
3rd question will they handle mid 600 hp and torque, 2 step & foot brake
 
Those are really big drive shafts. Don’t know if you can find a yoke for a 1350.
 
jaws said:
Those are really big drive shafts. Don’t know if you can find a yoke for a 1350.
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My thoughts are build it to handle more than I can throw at it.
I think there are slip yokes for 727 I know there are for my dana 60
 
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I had 1 aluminum shaft.....lasted the burn out and then grenaded at the launch. A custom steel job is only like 300 at my local driveshaft shop. A Mark Williams shaft is like 500 plus freight
 
Why so big? RPM is a killer for large diameter driveshafts. Mark Williams has a neat matrix regarding critical DS speeds. Might take a peek at it.

Most cars are fine with a 3-4 inch unit.

I've used Tattons drive line in Utah.
 
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crackedback said:
Why so big? RPM is a killer for large diameter driveshafts. Mark Williams has a neat matrix regarding critical DS speeds. Might take a peek at it.

Most cars are fine with a 3-4 inch unit.

I've used Tattons drive line in Utah.
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Cool, I'll take a look, I was just throwing that 5 inch number out there. As it turns out most of the drive lines were a bit to scratch & dent for me.
 
Rat Bastid said:
3.5 inch 4130 DOM tubing with 1350 joints and you can launch the space shuttle off of that.
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Oh cool. I suppose that's what I'll do then.
There goes my tens on 5k budget, lol.
($10,000) dollars ago
 
66Valiant528 said:
I had 1 aluminum shaft.....lasted the burn out and then grenaded at the launch. A custom steel job is only like 300 at my local driveshaft shop. A Mark Williams shaft is like 500 plus freight
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Had nothing to do with being an aluminum driveshaft.......one would have to look at either who built it for you and or operator extreme error.
 
Just bought a 3 1/2” aluminum PST shaft with 1350 front and 7290 rear joints for my 904 project. 7 lbs difference from my 3” mild steel with the same joints that I was running with the 727. That is even though the aluminum one is 4” longer? I have been “prepping” a new set of tires with no issues so far.
 
'68cuda416 said:
Had nothing to do with being an aluminum driveshaft.......one would have to look at either who built it for you and or operator extreme error.
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This. I ran a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft on my nitrous Nova for years. 2 stages. 940hp. 1st stage hit at 0.50 seconds. Had it balanced at the beginning of every season and no issues ever. That car took a beating too.

I found that most driveshaft/tailshaft failures with A Bodies are because the axle is not correctly offset for the additional 1-3/16" on the drivers side. That, combined with incorrect pinion angle, can cause a tremendous amount of strain and vibration and lead to failure. Carbon fiber driveshafts are more forgiving. Aluminum will crack lengthwise. I've never used chromoly
 
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I upgraded to a 5" by .125, 6051 aluminum drive shaft with 1480 u-joints that is nearly 72 inches long for my 3/4 ton 4wd truck. The shop that built it said they have customers spinning over 1300 hp and 2400+ foot pound of torque through virtually identical units, so aluminum drive shafts can be very strong.

It is amazing how much lighter the aluminum drive shaft is than the stock one that came out of the truck.
 
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