Hello everyone, how are things? Well i am about ready to bring out the cutting torch to this door. It WILL not open from the inside or out, the door acts like its not closed all the way. The door panels are off on both doors, i cant see any reason why this is happening when comparing to the passenger door. I have wasted so much time trying, i had a buddy try and the poor guy had veins popping out of his head he got so mad! Any advice would be great. I feel like i am more than capable of figuring this out, i built the 360 and the 727 that are in the car. How in the heck is this dang door punishing me so bad? Please help!!!
Drivers door wont open inside or out!
- Thread starter chris17
- Start date
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That sucks....but no torch!! All I can think of is one of mine had come out of adjustment. Are you able to function the latch by reaching into the door and it still doesn't open? Or is just with the handles? I remember having to reach back in there and then once I had it open I had to adjust the linkage somehow. Does it seem like it is sort of open but wont swing out? If that is more like it maybe the striker has broken or come loose and is too far forward and jamming in the latch.
belmateo
Well-Known Member
I have a similar problem and know exactly what you are talking about. Mine was the door hinges were sagging and I had to lift the door to get it to come open. On some other cars you have to push the door in and up as you are pushing the outside button to open in and it should release for you.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Yeah, we have tried all the finess methods, one guy operating linkage manually through door frame, one guy pulling out, pushing in, lifting up. I can tell that the hinges are most likely causing sag, but like you said lifting up will help that, i just want to open the door one time and fix it...lol. Since i have had the car it has not been open....
belmateo
Well-Known Member
I hear ya and totally understand your frustration, about the only thing left I can suggest is to pry the door up from the inside with a bar with someone of the outside pushing in to get it to open for you....
I will give it a go after work. On a better note i did pull the transmission back out, did my first 727 rebuild, and she works great, ran the lokar T.V. cable, and Lokar universal throttle cable. Will let you know if and what it took to get the door open. GRrrrrr.
goldfish65
Well-Known Member
Kick it hard while pulling back on the handle. Worked for me when all else failed.
belmateo
Well-Known Member
omfg
belmateo
Well-Known Member
I thought of that too but the latch is in the way for you to be able to do that I think.
I was going to say, kick it at the far rear center where the sticker is from the back seat and have some one outside to open the door but I would be afraid
some one would or could get hurt :coffee2:
Yep
Ihad to unlodge a few this way myself Have you tried pushing in from the outside with the door handle Then! push the button :coffee2: Good luck and sounds like you are moving forward :cheers:
harleydartguy
Dana R
When you said you had someone operate the linkage did you mean the rod that runs from the latch? If so...the plastic retainers that hold the linkage to the latch mechanism could be worn or gone. Reach in and get a hold on the release lever right at the latch.
The metal around the striker post has fatigued and broken so the door is jammed.
When I drove my 68 from CA to Ohio, I got pulled over near Sacramento. (one of 3 times in 3 states during the trip but that's for another post...nice pun there) The cop walked over to the passenger door and opened it. When he SLAMMED it closed, it apparently broke and wouldn't open again. That was one of the first things I repaired when I got it home. Fixed both striker posts...permanently.
Anyway, I remember removing the rear seat side panels to access the back side of the door pillar. I can't tell you exactly how I did it but I managed to finally get the door open. I may have drilled out the spot welds holding the nut capture cage thingy. Once it was open I rewelded the broken out piece of door pillar metal, and welded an additional overlapping backing plate on the back. Once the front was ground down smooth and painted, it was invisible.
That's a good sign that the door hinges need rebuilding.
When I drove my 68 from CA to Ohio, I got pulled over near Sacramento. (one of 3 times in 3 states during the trip but that's for another post...nice pun there) The cop walked over to the passenger door and opened it. When he SLAMMED it closed, it apparently broke and wouldn't open again. That was one of the first things I repaired when I got it home. Fixed both striker posts...permanently.
Anyway, I remember removing the rear seat side panels to access the back side of the door pillar. I can't tell you exactly how I did it but I managed to finally get the door open. I may have drilled out the spot welds holding the nut capture cage thingy. Once it was open I rewelded the broken out piece of door pillar metal, and welded an additional overlapping backing plate on the back. Once the front was ground down smooth and painted, it was invisible.
That's a good sign that the door hinges need rebuilding.
Technical term??? LOL
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