Driveshaft length. Is there a solid answer?

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Mopar92

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So I'm planning to do a slant swap on my 73 Duster. I have everything for the swap now but the driveshaft. My good friend and I want to do the transplant fairly soon. I'd rather not be down for weeks waiting on the driveshaft. Since everything is 100% factory, I should be able to just have a standard DS built. However I've found 3 charts online on Mopar forums and they all give a different length. Is there a factual number ??? 360 LA, 833, 8 3/4 rear.
 
There are many posts on driveshaft lengths and the end result seems to always be - measure once everything is assembled to be 100% sure.
Better to wait than to waste money.
 
Measure it yourself. Then measure again before you buy one. Or have one made if you have a slip yoke. If you are having one made get the measurement that the shop requires. They usually give you a chart with how the car is to be sitting at time of measurement.
 
There are many posts on driveshaft lengths and the end result seems to always be - measure once everything is assembled to be 100% sure.
Better to wait than to waste money.
THIS---------- With it all together, sitting on the ground. take measurements to driveshaft builder w/ info on how u measured it. do it once-do it right. If in doubt on how to measure it, ask the guy that will be building it, how to measure it.
 
Measure measure measure.

That said, it should be around 49.25". Should being the key word there. That is the factory spec, and it's actually the length of the driveshaft in my '74 Duster with a 340/833/8.75. But just because that's the factory spec doesn't mean that's what yours will need to be, gotta measure to be sure.
 
I'll measure it. Just figured it wouldn't be rocket science. After all they mass produced them.
 
I'll measure it. Just figured it wouldn't be rocket science. After all they mass produced them.

That is true. But not everything that rolled off the factory line was as it should have been, lots of it was just "close enough", and some of it wasn't even that really. As soon as you start throwing aftermarket parts into the mix the factory spec might not be close enough anymore. Add horsepower, change the ride height, different springs, tire heights etc
 
I'll measure it. Just figured it wouldn't be rocket science. After all they mass produced them.
True. They did mass produce them and they all (or mostly all) worked OK. But think about a few things. First, If you got ten answers from ten people on the right driveshaft length, you'd probably get ten different answers. Hard to tell which cars have prior accident damage that might not have been straightened out properly. Hard to tell how a motor is mounted (or if the motor mounts were off a bit due to poor Chinese quality. There are probably a lot of other factors that could cause measurements to vary from car to car today, but 50 years ago, on the assembly line, Ma Mopar had the advantage of having brand new cars rolling down the assembly line that pretty much had to be straight and true.
 
These cars were built to something like 1/4in. +/- tolerance. One might be built a little short, the next a little long. They just didn't build them as tight as they do today. Tolerance stack up. Just really need to measure yours.
 
IMG_5166.JPG
Thought this might be of help.
 
I'm having wiles build me one. Supporting a TN company. They've always built great race shafts for my cars in the past.
 
These cars were built to something like 1/4in. +/- tolerance. One might be built a little short, the next a little long. They just didn't build them as tight as they do today. Tolerance stack up. Just really need to measure yours.
Wouldn`t these cars be kick *** if they had been computer controlled and designed , when built ??
 
--- measure once everything is assembled to be 100% sure. Better to wait than to waste money. --
-- The key is, that the front yoke / tube must be into the transmission, with enough end clearance to prevent the drive shaft from binding, as the suspension moves. -- The info below is from The Denny's Drive Shaft website.
drive Shaft - Info.JPG
 
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Wouldn`t these cars be kick *** if they had been computer controlled and designed , when built ??
Lol, yeah. Doing collision work on late models with Car-O-Liner frame and measuring equipment that's accurate to +/- 1mm. On cars with no door or hood hinge adjustments, and no alignment adjustments other then toe where everything has to be spot on, and always chasing that zero on the measurements. Then go out there and work on mine and the right apron is welded on 3/16's longer then the left, the core support is welded on the frame rails 3/16 or so over to the left, the A pillars seem to be off 1/4 side to side. Good thing thing the square adjustment holes are big enough to move the door east to west coast. The under cab measurements are not square. Length is good but I think the right rear rail is in the car a touch toward centerline. The front mounts for the leafs are off side to side. I stopped measuring it was making me nuts. Still chasing the zero on the measurements lol I wouldn't have been a bodyman very long building stuff like that.
 
Lol, yeah. Doing collision work on late models with Car-O-Liner frame and measuring equipment that's accurate to +/- 1mm. On cars with no door or hood hinge adjustments, and no alignment adjustments other then toe where everything has to be spot on, and always chasing that zero on the measurements. Then go out there and work on mine and the right apron is welded on 3/16's longer then the left, the core support is welded on the frame rails 3/16 or so over to the left, the A pillars seem to be off 1/4 side to side. Good thing thing the square adjustment holes are big enough to move the door east to west coast. The under cab measurements are not square. Length is good but I think the right rear rail is in the car a touch toward centerline. The front mounts for the leafs are off side to side. I stopped measuring it was making me nuts. Still chasing the zero on the measurements lol I wouldn't have been a bodyman very long building stuff like that.
Mine is really close everywhere, but had to shim the rearend 1/8" on one side to get it square. all body gaps are closer than the new one I bought in 1968. WHO knows ?
 
there is a list of every mopar combination ...model,engine, transmission and rear axle with driveshaft lengths.Try googling Mopar driveshaft length or it may be found on" moparts"
 
there is a list of every mopar combination ...model,engine, transmission and rear axle with driveshaft lengths.Try googling Mopar driveshaft length or it may be found on" moparts"
THE SOLID ANSWER IS: PUT IT TOGETHER AND W/ IT SETTING ON THE TIRES, MEASURE IT, AND HAVE ONE BUILT !
 
You can certainly measure and have a new one made and it will be upwards of $450 in our area.But if you find that your combination is the same length as a 68 satellite or barracuda or whatever then a decent used one can be an economical choice.
Mine was a free..it came with some other parts i bought and needed but used ones around here can be $75 - $100
 
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