Dual Master cylinders with balance bar ?

[one mile]

What I have is a '65 barracuda with rebuilt K/H disc up front ,Ceramic pads, 7/8 rear wheel cyl.and premium shoes on rear, all new pre bent hard stainless lines , braided steel Flex lines, (all 3) Prop. Valve off of 70's Duster. I have Synthetic Fluid. The Master Cylinder I need it to be manual and able to stop easy enough for my Daughters D.D. and Alot of my SCCA and Auto X friends say this is the way to go...... 3/4 bore M/C for the front with residual valve and 7/8 bore for the rear with Balance Bar for adjustment. All of the Fab. "stuff" is not really an issue. Would the Wilwood 7/8 dual resivior single M/C do just as well or close to it ? Yes, the Car will see a Auto X or 2 and maybe a Track day @ Road Atlanta but I need to focus on D.D. first for my Girl. Any POSITIVE input welcome. Thanks, TIM

 

[BillGrissom]

I can only make a few sporadic comments:

1. All brake fluid is synthetic. Did you fall for Valvoline's marketing?

2. I understand you don't need a residual valve today. They solved that problem of leaking cylinders 30 yrs ago by better cups in the wheel cylinders. If yours have springs with metal caps or tight-wound ends, that serves to seal them with no hydraulic pressure. All rebuild kits I have seen for decades have those.

3. Not sure what the balance bar is. It sounds like 2 separate MC's in parallel with a linkage bar to the pedal. If you just use an adjustable proportioning valve (Jegs $30) instead of the fixed 70's Duster one, you can use a simple dual MC and dial it in (until rear wheels skid first on wet asphalt then back off so fronts always skid first).

4. For manual disk brakes, most people like ~7/8"D MC bore. Many posts on this. Not sure you can get any smaller if your daughter has a weak leg. She can always use 2 feet in an emergency.

 

[kursplat]

mounting dual MC's in an otherwise stock car can be....annoying. an adjustable portioning valve is much easyer on a daily driver.

 

[one mile]

Well Bill ,I did fall for it....on the Fluid. The Residual Valve is out, and the Parallel Bar allows 2 master Cyl side by side (small like Tilton) one dedicated to the Front and one for the back and the Bar can be adjusted inside the Car with a Dash mounted Knob if you want for brake Bias for Track or Street conditions. Its an older Racers trick that some of my friends still use. It allows very little Pedal effort on the Drivers part. I am looking into just the 1 smaller master cyl. and can always try the 2 later. We were sitting around "Bench Racing" one night and I wanted to bounce this stuff off of you all to see what came up. Kursplat, thanks for your input also but it will end up far from being an otherwise "Stock" car. My thought process is to make it STOP and STEER before I make it FAST. I have a "PLAN" not much of one at the moment but a Plan for sure. Thanks Guys , Tim

 

[one mile]

Well ,I still have some die hard Solo I & II & Auto X friends insist the dual Master Cyl. with Bar is the way to go.(see above) I hate having to "RE-Do" somthing. anybody else have any more input? I would be glad to hear from you. Thanks , Tim

 

[inkjunkie]

I think for a street car there is absolutely no reason to reinvent the wheel, conventional inline m/c have worked for decades. If you have a space problem, say from putting a 2G HEMI in your car that would be different. I do know that Bill Reilly, owner of RMS has pictures of a dual setup he has in his car, perhaps contact him.....

 

[one mile]

Thanks inkjunkie ! That is just what kind of info I need. I understand what you a saying but I and looking for easy pedal pressure and still stay Mechanical. And YES a Gun in Hand is better than a Cop on the Phone ! LOL !

 

[inkjunkie]

Thanks inkjunkie ! That is just what kind of info I need. I understand what you a saying but I and looking for easy pedal pressure and still stay Mechanical. And YES a Gun in Hand is better than a Cop on the Phone ! LOL !

From past experience you will probably have better luck getting a hold of Bill with a phone call.....