Dual quads versus big hammer!!!...

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PRH said:
What about if you “roll into it” instead of punch it?

Maybe all that has to happen is a little more drivers finesse.

Sounds like they’re pretty close.
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This is also why I say I see a lot of signs of Glory. It really does respond well and open up great... it's just that little situation that I put it in that I would like it to act basically LOL like fuel injection or something and stop that. I reckon if it was an automatic it would already kick down and kick the RPM's up...
 
PRH said:
Frankly, if they’re that close....... I’d be working on getting the wot jetting dialed in.
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I noticed at wide open throttle one time I was getting about a 12-1 on the O2 sensor. Again I didn't have the O2 sensor shorted out at that time. But I do believe I have it now. if that's the case then I would like those secondary doors to open a little more and allow a little more air. Again I called the Holley tech line this morning and then again going to send me a a set and they usually take about a week so probably next Thursday again...
 
Thinking it over...had you drilled the air valves you would at least know if that was an issue at this point.

It's snowing here. Heard it was snowing on I-5 in Wilsonville and out in Newberg.

And they cancelled the swap meet.

Just throwing that out there for your consideration.
 
j par said:
View attachment 1715486188 View attachment 1715486189
I can see it's some kind of divider plate down in the secondary witch does me no good...
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Then look like fuel baffles, in the fuel bowl........do you think you are dealing with fuel slash?.
I know you said it would launch just fine. but you said something about leaning idle mixture screw and a.......rough idle when stopping or something like that.

Just wondering if you might want to keep them. One of your carbs may not have had them installed from the factory...............

don't think this would have anything to do with you cruising/tip in stumble.
 
Cudafever said:
Then look like fuel baffles, in the fuel bowl........do you think you are dealing with fuel slash?.
I know you said it would launch just fine. but you said something about leaning idle mixture screw and a.......rough idle when stopping or something like that.

Just wondering if you might want to keep them. One of your carbs may not have had them installed from the factory...............

don't think this would have anything to do with you cruising/tip in stumble.
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When I talk to the Holley techline kid this morning he said the reason the last guy probably sent the wrong part was he didn't look into the blueprints of the carburetor. He just seen what looked like an air baffle. The guy took a lot longer and had me on hold for quite a few minutes searching for the correct part. So yeah that are baffle has nothing to do with what I'm looking to try. I'll post another picture here real quick and maybe the link if I can find it to get you up to speed but it's probably in the first page or two of this thread..
Screenshot_20200304-075024.png
 
I'm too lazy to read the whole post, but did you ever try removing the springs?
I think some Thermo-quad drag racers did something similar.
I'll go back and read the rest:)
 
Jets just got here. I swear I could completely cover every last inch of my car with these summit stickers LOL..
IMG_20200313_155047.jpg
 
sccachallenger said:
I'm too lazy to read the whole post, but did you ever try removing the springs?
I think some Thermo-quad drag racers did something similar.
I'll go back and read the rest:)
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Thermoquads have 1 spring on the "T" plunger that holds the metering rods. But yes, basically the same function. The plunger was pulled down by vacuum at start up. The difference is, the TQ "plunger" could be adjusted in height (raising or lowering the metering rods) with a Allen wrench. That was a nice feature.
 
sccachallenger said:
Right, take em out and see if the rods drop in the jet.
I think the TQ racers used a modified rod, dubbed the "club-foot" rod too.
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Are you suggesting a drag race only calibration?... I'm not quite sure how having the rods permanently dropped into the Jets is going to help my drivability?..
 
Well, you've got a point, on a TQ there's a cam that moves the rod hangar up as throttle is opened.
I guess that helps speed up the rods moving to the rich position.
maybe the Demon doesn't do this?
j par said:
Are you suggesting a drag race only calibration?... I'm not quite sure how having the rods permanently dropped into the Jets is going to help my drivability?..
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Although might try it to see if it improves idle quality. Yeah probably wouldn't help overall drive ability.
 
The spring on this,...... and the power valve on a regular holley do the same thing.
Its like blocking the power valve(removing the metering rod spring)and not adding 8-10 jet size. It going to run lean lean lean under full throttle.

The club foot, on the TQ, in the direct connection book???.............. i would have to pull out and re read but. Yes it was a race calibration.
 
Is this so called stumb when you first try to accelerate from a steady state(Cruise) or is it when you just break in to the secondays?
 
j par said:
Also I forgot to say that I did verify by not connecting the two carburetors together that the secondary flap door smacks open when activating one carburetor at a time....Maybe there will be something to drilling...
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some clarification
Did the secondary air door flap snap one in neutral or going down the road. when you were running one carb.??
 
Screenshot_20200314-072808.png

I was noticing on this new Edelbrock with a spring-loaded secondary door it had a big rectangle hole in it...
 
Cudafever said:
some clarification
Did the secondary air door flap snap one in neutral or going down the road. when you were running one carb.??
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Definitely at idle when I rev them individually it would make the door snap.. I only gave it that one short run with Progressive linkage and didn't like it... It didn't seem to cure anything..
 
Screenshot_20200314-162114.png

Some interesting stuff here I was reading on tuning the Edelbrock dual quads. The front carburetor had a smaller diameter on the power mode of the front metering rods..
 
This is just my opinion.
But. That secondary air door flap should NOT open under no load. In gear going down the road Yes. not in neutral.
Tighten that air door spring down. so that it moves but won't open under a neutral full throttle blip, and take it for a drive.
 
Cudafever said:
This is just my opinion.
But. That secondary air door flap should NOT open under no load. In gear going down the road Yes. not in neutral.
Tighten that air door spring down. so that it moves but won't open under a neutral full throttle blip, and take it for a drive.
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The best I've got them to do under full throttle is bobble a little bit, never flip open...
Monday is my day for test-driving I hope. It snowed today pretty hard LOL on Monday is my day off I hope...
 
j par said:
The best I've got them to do under full throttle is bobble a little bit, never flip open...
Monday is my day for test-driving I hope. It snowed today pretty hard LOL on Monday is my day off I hope...
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With the snow flying I figured you had the sleds out. They say (the they is never right so take that for what it's worth) it's going to snow some more tonight and then again tomorrow.

We had an inch or so, but the 40 MPH winds blew it all away. And probably some more of my roof. I'll go look later.
 
I would mess with the air door spring tension LONG before i stated drilling holes in the air door itself.
 
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