Duster sub-frame connectors

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Captainkirk

Captainkirk

Old School Mopar Warrior
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Hey all, any preferences and/or recommendations for street car subframe connectors? Are there any decent bolt-ons, or is that a myth? I'm sure welding is better, but I'm not much of a welder. I would appreciate any product links and recommendations you'd have
This is a street/strip car, small block under 400 HP w/4 speed
 
FWIW, I bought the bolt in MoPar units, and had them welded in. Do a search on Subframe connectors, there are several available types, and even more opinions!
 
Bolting in the connectors helps a little.

To do it right you MUST have them welded.

US car tool makes some nice ones.
I've used .125 - 2x3 rect tube with success.
 
The only thing I don't like about the article above is that they have the car on blocks with the suspension just hanging. Wouldn't you want to weld the connectors in with the weight of the car on the suspension? I would think the car needs to be standing on it's own weight to make sure they don't have any bind once the car is back on the ground.
 
63dartman said:
The only thing I don't like about the article above is that they have the car on blocks with the suspension just hanging. Wouldn't you want to weld the connectors in with the weight of the car on the suspension? I would think the car needs to be standing on it's own weight to make sure they don't have any bind once the car is back on the ground.
Click to expand...

When I did mine, I put the front on ramps and the rear on jackstands under the rear axle as far out as I could. Leveled the car to simulate the suspension loaded.
 
I did mine on a drive on lift, suspension loaded. They were bolt ons, but my buddy did a real nice job welding them in.

You could bolt them on, and then drive to a muffler shop and they could finish the job by welding them in for you. Shouldn't be too expensive.
 
Right now, in case you haven't seen the pix in my resto thread, the front suspension, K-frame and engine/drive train are out of the car and it's two feet up in the air. Maybe it might be a good idea to fit and trim the s/f connectors and bolt them up now, and have'em welded in after I'm done? Thanks for the info BTW- I hadn't even thought about that aspect. As usual, you guys are great!:toothy10:

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63dartman said:
The only thing I don't like about the article above is that they have the car on blocks with the suspension just hanging. Wouldn't you want to weld the connectors in with the weight of the car on the suspension? I would think the car needs to be standing on it's own weight to make sure they don't have any bind once the car is back on the ground.
Click to expand...
This is a good question for me too as I'm ignorant to this whole proceedure.

Can anyone please elaborate the pros and cons of installing while the vehicle is suspended?

Thanks for your time!
 
IMO, the idea is to get the body as straight and level as possible. As far as loaded/unloaded, the concept is that the connectors will help stop flex. If the car is unloaded, then the connectors will prevent the body from flexing to its normal flexed position when dropped. Loading the stress prior to installation will minimize the body from flexing from its already flexed position.

If the connectors were factory installed, they would have been put on at the same time as the rails, therefore unloaded. To that end, if the amount of body flex is so substantail between loaded and unloaded on your vehicle, I would presume that the trueness of your body is out of whack when loaded. I would check your door/window gaps unloaded, and if they are true, then weld them at that time. To me, welding in a bar on a crooked/stressed body makes little sense.

Grant
 
OneOfMany said:
IMO, the idea is to get the body as straight and level as possible. As far as loaded/unloaded, the concept is that the connectors will help stop flex. If the car is unloaded, then the connectors will prevent the body from flexing to its normal flexed position when dropped. Loading the stress prior to installation will minimize the body from flexing from its already flexed position.

If the connectors were factory installed, they would have been put on at the same time as the rails, therefore unloaded. To that end, if the amount of body flex is so substantail between loaded and unloaded on your vehicle, I would presume that the trueness of your body is out of whack when loaded. I would check your door/window gaps unloaded, and if they are true, then weld them at that time. To me, welding in a bar on a crooked/stressed body makes little sense.

Grant
Click to expand...
Thanks Grant, that's my thinking is on this too.

I know USTool, who makes connectors, recommends the ideal installation would done while on a rotiserie when stress is at it's absolute minimum.
 
Use Mancini Racing as your supplier. Best product and best price. Weld 'em in--takes 15 minutes per side. Quit goofing off on this thread and get busy.

BTW, have the car loaded.
 
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