Dynamat / Peal n Seal... yes or no

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DA69RT GT

DA69RT GT

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Did some research on past threads in regards to Dynamat and I was going to put it down until I saw the price and decided to buy the Peal n Seal from Lowes (due to Member suggestions)... but prior to install, I had a few people tell me not to use it.
They said if any water/moisture gets under it: youre screwed... also that if you ever need to take it up... its a nasty job, and lastly in a hot climate like FLA... it could melt and cause a smell.
I got some samples of B-Quiet from a buddy and they look very similar to Peal n Seal. The B-Quiet Extreme sample says it consists of rubberized asphalt.

Being that I live in FL (heat) and have a convertible that has occ leak issues... its made me reluctant. I purchased the sound deadner kit and was gonna install that instead due to the fact that it doesnt adhere to the floor. Figured that along with the mass backing on the carpet should help with the heat/noise levels.

Any updated feedback/opinions? I still have some time to install it.
... see my Carpet problem Mass Backing issue thread.

Thanks
 
DO NOT use an asphalt based material in the heat, it MUST be Butyl based or it will melt and will have not "Chosen Wisely". Try a roofing supply house and specifically ask for a Butyl based product.
Andrew
 
Anyone of the materials that go under the carpet, even jute, have the potential to trap moisture so I would be looking to fix the leaks before putting down a noise deadener.

That being said I used a rubber like material that goes down under roofing for the first few feet that acts as a water barrier, it has a sticky backing. Not sure if it's asphalt based or not but it has been out in 90+ degree days for several years and has not melted or smelled. The stuff is quite dense and has done a good job of quieting down the car. Don't know how it compares to Dynamat or one of the other car specific materials but $40 for a 50 foot roll seemed to be to good a price not to give it a try. I also have a layer of jute under the carpet, back seat and under the mat in the trunk.
 
I was the one who suggested the dyna mat. I got mine at the local hardware store.I used duct tape and contact spray cement to hold it down.
 
One orther thing that carpet with the thick backing is probably gonna cause problems.By the time you get the sound deadner and carpet down you will be like a inch or more thick!My carpet just had the jute backing and then the sound deadner and you couldnt tell any difference height wise.
 
I called the manufacturer of Peel and Seal and spoke with Techinal support person and he said as long as the tempature of the car doesn't go over 200 degrees it will not melt.

He said there are companies who buy and market his product to use in automotive applications.

Use this information as you like!

http://www.mfmbp.com/Contact.htm
 
clutch said:
I was the one who suggested the dyna mat. I got mine at the local hardware store.I used duct tape and contact spray cement to hold it down.
Click to expand...


I thought it was self adhesive?
 
No not the stuff i was talking about.I bought it at my local hardware store.Comes in a roll and you can either duct tape it down or use contact spray cement, I used both and the carpet looked great you couldn't tell anything was under the carpet.
 
Where is the best place to but Dynamat or B-Quiet? I see it on Ebay and know you can buy direct... but does anybody have a good source or discount code for a killer deal?

DGC- your suggestion is my main concern right now- need to make sure leaks are ALL found. I think the cowl vent by the windshield as well as the seal around the wipers may be main culprit. I know the drain for the back window is rusted- but that affects just the trunk. Gonna pop a few beers tomorrow and hit her with the hose... and hopefully rectify all issues promptly.
Has anyone ever just sealed up the cowl vent by the windshield?

Good info Scuba- it was causing some concern. I was reading a study where they say on a typical 95° F day, the air temperature in a car that has been previously air conditioned can exceed 120° F in just 20 minutes! And it jumps to 149° F IN JUST 40 MINUTES! Your dashboard can heat up to more than 181° F to the touch, the steering wheel can exceed 159° F, and a car seat can reach 162° F and more.

Im not worried about thickness combining sound deadner and mass backing as each are only about 1/8" and I dont think 1/4" will make a big difference. Worse case scenario... I may have to bend the gas pedal slightly to give me a little more acceleration gratification!

Thanks to all for advice... any other input is welcome.
 
Dynamat is like gold, not many people will give you a killer deal on it but I'd like to be proven wrong for your sake.

I used Dynamat, I got mine from Year-None on an impulse buy while picking up my carpet.

Glad I did it, made the cokpit much more quiet so I only have to yell when the windows are open now.LOL.

If you get it, buy that little roller thingy, it makes life easier but you can still rub it down with your hands but it is a lot more owrk.
 
Regarding interior temps in south Florida. When I lived in Miami, (late 90s) I would use the back of my station wagon to post heat cure my composites.
I regularly got to 170 degs in the back.
Just a thought.
Andrew
 
Was just looking at B-Quiet product samples...

B-Quiet Extreme says "is a sound dampening material that consists of rubberized asphalt coated with an aluminum top layer".
Same as Peal & Seal.

If it had issues w/melting and smell... why would they continue to use it?

The B-Quiet Ultimate, however, is pure butyl rubber.
 
Ken- I see where that product, Low-E, is alum on both sides...
does it form to floorboards or do you have to use an adhesive?
Thanks
 
Is Dynamat heavy? If I were to install it in the doors, under the carpet, quarters, trunk, roof - how much weight are we talking? I put some under the rug in my Charger and if memory serves, it's a foil-backed tar-type material that's pretty dense and heavy.

Also, if I were to stick the stuff on the inside roof - above the headliner, do you think I'd have adhesion issues with the hot sun beating on the roof of the car?
 
For under the headliner, use something light. I like the foil/bubble wrap insulation from Home Depot. I install it with spray adhesive. If it does fall, it won't bring down the headliner.

I used dynamat before. The only thing I didn't like is, the carpet slides around like snot on a glass doorknob on the foil backing. Expensive, heavy, but it works.
 
Dynamat is a trade name.What most people use is what HVAC installers have been using for years to wrap and insulate AC/and heat ducts.It is an insulating product that comes in a roll ,shiney silver in color and sold at any hardware store in America.There is no glue on either side you simply use duct tape to seam it together and hold it down.It is flexible enough to use any where in the car.I used it in my car and I was amazed at how much it quieted the car down and kept it cool.All for less then 30 bucks a roll.
 
I picked up a roll of this at the HD and might give it a try inside the doors and see how it goes.

2db3de0d-4f75-436f-bf93-1e603b289f81_400.jpg
 
I just installed the B-quiet Extreme in my Dart. Stuff went in very smoothly.
I noticed a big improvement in reduced heat inside. For reduced noise it was just a little better than without the B-quiet. The saleperson did say add double layers of the extreme to get better reduction in noise. One roll of the extreme was $64 if you buy two rolls it was around $50.00 per roll. It only took one roll to do the floor board from the firewall to the rear seat.
 
Don't let the alarmist's talk you out of your money 170 is not 200 and if it's real hot crack a window , that said yes look for a butyl based product I used a peel and stick moisture barrier that is readily available here , It is about 2/3 the thickness of auto products but cost me $16 for a 18" x 50' =75sq' roll so for 32 bucks I did the inside of the doors , quarters and trunk area of my fastback once and the passenger area twice . If you use a spray adhesive or the contact primer we use with it in construction and do it on a hot day so it molds easier you can get it in with little or no air behind it and the lack of a foil layer is a non issue and may even be a blessing electrically with older cars like ours . Don't let the Canadian address fool you it gets just as hot here on the west coast as anywhere else I've lived in North America and I've never smelled any "hot tar smell " and as for sound well with TTi headers and a 2.5" H pipe exhaust I couldn't hear myself think before , now I can here the gal beside me talking .

Just my 2cents it's easy to spend other peoples money and even easier when you wasted your own eh, misery sure loves company
 
I found a decent deal on Dynamat from Summit. I was able to do my entire floor with one box. f you get a promotion coupon then you can save a little more. I think I paid $125 3 years ago.

Sounds like there are some good alternatives out there for less $$$. I may put the other stuff inside my doors.

I did use the bubble foil from Lowe's for the firewall. Really easy to copy/trace the old fiberglass padding and the plastic OEM plugs still work too :)
 
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