Early Abody Doug’s 450 header install BEFORE engine going in

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nick455440

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Doing a /6 to 340 swap in a 65 Valiant, have everything ready to go in the car.I know there are a lot of threads and great info about how to install these headers with the engine in the car. The engine is not in the car, steering columns is out, torsion bars are slid back. Wondering if anyone has or would it be easier to put the headers together as far as the slip tubes and flanges etc. lay them in the engine bay set the motor down between them then bolt them up. Was worried about putting them together and it not working then having to deal with the sealer and the used (at that point) flange gaskets if the install like this won’t work.
 
If the headers are the under-chassis type, I would certainly try it. I have used this method many times on the 67 up A's, always with good success. But, I install removable studs, in the end holes, of each head to hang the headers on, and hold them in alignment, while I struggle with the bolts. And I cut the gasket so that I can drop it between the header and the head AFTER the header is hanging there and in it's semi-final position.
I use a really THICK header gasket, so I can reuse it several times..I use no flange-sealer.
But sometimes I do not install the studs into the holes closest to the firewall cuz it may happen that it becomes impossible to be able to get the header up and over it. In this case I hang the rad end, and then install whatever bolt is easiest, enough turns to support the weight, then install the firewall end stud or bolt, then go back and remove that center one in preparation for installing the gasket.
Those four end holes go into the water jackets of factory iron heads, so whatever you put in those holes, that's where I use the sealer.

Happy HotRodding

Edit,
do not cut your gasket until the header is hanging on the EndStuds. Some gaskets come pre-cut for this.
 
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I've done it with my Patriots and the 340 Duster and I've done them on a big block and a Coronet and a small block and a satellite I just hang them up in there with some wire drop the motor in and then hook it up. And of course anytime you're dropping a meal in especially if the transmission's attached to it it's awesome to have an extra set of hands or so! However I've never tried them in an early age with the type of headers you're talking about
 
AJ, those early A headers have slip joints and flanges.

I think you'll be fine putting them together laying them in, just like you would manifolds. As long as the steering column and torsion bars are out/slid back.

AJ, here's a pic when I was painting mine. Which lasted about 10 minutes. I wrapped them after that.

IMG_20191224_145057.jpg
 
66fyssh said:
AJ, those early A headers have slip joints and flanges.

I think you'll be fine putting them together laying them in, just like you would manifolds. As long as the steering column and torsion bars are out/slid back.

AJ, here's a pic when I was painting mine. Which lasted about 10 minutes. I wrapped them after that.

View attachment 1716092880
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Doesn't it just PISS you OFF when you spend a lot of time doing a class A job even if with spray cans only for it to burn off that quick? The headers on the 400 I just got running in Gladys did the same thing. And it wasn't because I had the timing retarded, either. Soon as it fired, I pulled 36 degrees in at 3000 RPM. Dammit I was MAD. lol
 
The torsion bars have to go between the tubes on both sides of the D450's, so OP's plan should work just fine since his torsion bars are already slid back. As a follow-up question for @66fyssh and others that have them, would it be a good idea to go ahead and cut the headers flanges before putting them on the first time? My D450's are all intact, but the flanges are cut about half in two between 1 and 3, 5 and 7...and 2 and 4 and 6 and 8 on the other side.
 
JDMopar said:
would it be a good idea to go ahead and cut the headers flanges before putting them on the first time?
Click to expand...

Hey JD. I cut mine before installing. I'm not sure the drivers side could be installed without cutting. Man, it's tight in there, especially with a dual master cylinder and power steering.

Here's my driver's side when I still had the Commando valve covers. Sure wish I would have kept them!!

IMG_20200221_213720.jpg
 
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You will need an oil filter adapter. Here is how I installed the 273 in my 66 Barracuda.
Kframe up it is tight leave the rubber mount nuts loose so you can push the engine over left or right as you lower the car on the assembly. It has worked a 100% easier than dropping them in from the top. Both ways work but if the engine is out of the car with the k frame then do it like the factory did. Syleng1
 
Thanks. I have a 90 degree adapter and even scored one from an early A. My motor and stuff is new and I could lay the headers in before the motor, but I may install the headers from the bottom just for the experience in case I ever need to do it again. I'll leave the steering linkage and torsion bars out until I get them in and situated. My 65 Barracuda is going to be a 4 speed in this next version of its life, so I gotta try to either make the Z bar from Brewers and a brake proportioning valve share some space, or make it easier with a hydro clutch.

Thanks @66fyssh . As bad as I hate having to cut those shiny new ceramic coated flanges the rest of the way thru, I know it's for the best and will just paint the half inch of raw metal created by the cuts. Can't see it anyway...lol.
 
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