eBay replacement 2bbl carbs

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bozvaliant

bozvaliant

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Hi,

My friend up the street is looking to replace his carb on his 67 Barracuda. He was looking at one of the Chinese ones on eBay. Any thoughts on them. He doesn't want to spend a lot of money on it and doesn't want to deal with rebuilding it. Thanks in advance.
 
I bought one to convert my slant six from 1bbl to 2bbl. It worked fine right out of the box. I just had to swap the choke arm to the right shape for the six. I assume this is for a V8.
 
It seems like a good value. Better idea than a rebuilt due to new parts. Putting a kit in an old carb may not always work 100%, old carbs have wear in metering rod piston bore, throttle shaft, and top distortion.

Looks like carb is for 66-73, you will need to block a few ports for early applications, or add evaporative control parts.
 
bozvaliant said:
Hi,

My friend up the street is looking to replace his carb on his 67 Barracuda. He was looking at one of the Chinese ones on eBay. Any thoughts on them. He doesn't want to spend a lot of money on it and doesn't want to deal with rebuilding it. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

How 'bout posting a link? I've never heard of them. I will tell you this. I bought what should have been a very simple (ebay chineseoationized) carb for a Briggs about 8hp or so on a generator. The damn thing was frought with problems. You are talking, here, to a guy, who in earlier times, has had his hands into HUNDREDS of carburetors.

This was a simple 1bbl, with an adjustable main jet, and a "doughnut" shaped float. The problems are these:

1...The float and carb bowl are made slightly different than original. The result is the float either stuck open or would not open

2....The main jet needle would "jam" up inside the main jet, and as you tried to unscrew the needle, the needle would act as a wrench and unscrew the main jet!!! The upshot is, "no fuel flow.

I tried to clean the original but the internal idle passage is AFU
 
KitCarlson said:
It seems like a good value. Better idea than a rebuilt due to new parts. Putting a kit in an old carb may not always work 100%, old carbs have wear in metering rod piston bore, throttle shaft, and top distortion.

Looks like carb is for 66-73, you will need to block a few ports for early applications, or add evaporative control parts.
Click to expand...
Metering rod piston can be replaced with a new one. The throttle shaft can be re-bushed. And "top distortion" you mean where the top of the carb mates to the fuel bowl, the surface can be sanded down on a belt sander. I have not done this on my BBD yet (resurface)...but I may need to. As long as you have all the tools, all of these should be able to be done for around $10 in parts.
New parts on a new carb doesn't mean "Better." Your better off rebuilding an old one.
 
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exoJL said:
Metering rod piston can be replaced with a new one. The throttle shaft can be re-bushed. And "top distortion" you mean where the top of the carb mates to the fuel bowl, the surface can be sanded down on a belt sander. I have not done this on my BBD yet (resurface)...but I may need to. As long as you have all the tools, all of these should be able to be done for around $10 in parts.
New parts on a new carb doesn't mean "Better." Your better off rebuilding an old one.
Click to expand...
Yes, much you say is true. But far beyond most for kitting carb. Have you ever re impregnated the main casting to stop porosity leaks? 50 years and modern fuels eats away at the original impregnation sealant. Estimates to get that done is a few hundred $.

Never tried the Chinese carb, but for the price, it makes a cheap test.
 
Mazda wanted 1495.00 for this new carb (seriously!) and the same knockoff is $40.00 online...when you buy 50...I bought a new Ebay 50cc Walbro 'style' carb for a pitbike for $6 shipped that never started...new carb started and ran great on the first pull. Give it a shot.
 
I bought one and it had a massive vacuum leak. The screws that held the butterfly plate on weren't tight. They seemed to have loctite on them but when turned they turned in about two turns before they fully seated...something to look for.
 
lomchivok said:
I bought one and it had a massive vacuum leak. The screws that held the butterfly plate on weren't tight. They seemed to have loctite on them but when turned they turned in about two turns before they fully seated...something to look for.
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Absolutely no reason why locktight should be on the choke valve screws (choke plate as you call it). These are small screws and when installing them they are down at an angle and can easily be cross threaded. Someone took a shortcut after stripping the threads and used lock-tite. They thought it would be a permanent fix. "Something to look for?" Means, do not use whoever rebuilt that Carb... Please post this rebuilder...I wouldn't use these idiots.
 
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pishta said:
Mazda wanted 1495.00 for this new carb (seriously!) and the same knockoff is $40.00 online...when you buy 50...I bought a new Ebay 50cc Walbro 'style' carb for a pitbike for $6 shipped that never started...new carb started and ran great on the first pull. Give it a shot.
Click to expand...
Theres absolutely no way anyone could charge slightly less than $1500 for a new carburetor and get away with it.
 
exoJL said:
Absolutely no reason why locktight should be on the choke valve screws (choke plate as you call it). These are small screws and when installing them they are down at an angle and can easily be cross threaded. Someone took a shortcut after stripping the threads and used lock-tite. They thought it would be a permanent fix. "Something to look for?" Means, do not use whoever rebuilt that Carb... Please post this rebuilder...I wouldn't use these idiots.
Click to expand...
We need to start threads for idiot ideas not to copy. 1, Darius I, to not invade a region of land that your enemy can not equally enjoy and conqear on sea.
 
Well, my friends carb showed up the other day. I installed it yesterday. The carb looks almost original except that it has a few more vacuum ports on it that we had to cap off. The only issue that we had is the choke was different and made his choke stat useless. I had to make an adapter plate to make it work properly. The carb seems to work fine. It started up and I only had to adjust the idle screw a little. My friend is very happy that he doesn't have any leaks anymore. Thanks for all the replies.
 
Thank you for posting the good news!

It may be helpful for others, to post details of the choke adapter.
 
exoJL said:
Absolutely no reason why locktight should be on the choke valve screws (choke plate as you call it). These are small screws and when installing them they are down at an angle and can easily be cross threaded. Someone took a shortcut after stripping the threads and used lock-tite. They thought it would be a permanent fix. "Something to look for?" Means, do not use whoever rebuilt that Carb... Please post this rebuilder...I wouldn't use these idiots.
Click to expand...
Bought it off of ebay brand new. It wasn't the choke plate it was the throttle butterfly base plate where the screws were loose. took the throttle plate off to inspect for gasket issues...there were none. reassembled with small screw loctite to avoid screws coming loose and finding their way to the valves. just crappy qc on the part of the Chinese but works great now that the vacuum leak is fixed.
 
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