"Eddie" AFB carb issues..

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Pateras

Pateras

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Now don't laugh, but I've got an issue with my Edelbrock Carb..

History: Eddie 650 on a 360, carb was gummed up, sat forever (carb, not engine, new marriage) , so i recently rebuilt it. I was meticulous during the rebuild, took my time, and feel everything is perfect. Proud of it in fact. Immediately after, the engine roars to life, runs great, but only after you prime the carbs with gas first. As long as the engines warm, the engine runs like brand new. All day. After it cools down, you can crank for 3 hours, and nothing. doesn't even try. In fact, it takes several times of pouring a little gas in the carb (both bowls and throat) to even get it to start. I'm thinking dry bowls, but why?
Here goes the checklist:
1. great fuel pressure from manual pump.
2. nice, clean fresh gas, with new in-line filter.
3. fresh fuel lines start to finish, tight clamps.

I'm guessing that with my pouring gas in the bowls, AND pouring (dripping) gas down the throat, I'm getting enough to get it to run. after it runs, its somehow drawing just enough fuel to stay running. Once it cools for any period of time, my guess is that the line empties of the little gas it had, then flat wont fill the bowls again.

What am i missing here? Thanks.
 
where are you checking pressure? got a picture
 
After running it, before starting it up the next day, remove the top and check for fuel.

If there is no fuel, heat is evaporating the fuel. (Thick carb gasket under the carb?)
Fuel pressure gauge?

Next would be carb settings along with distributor settings. Which should work together. How far open are the butterflies on the primary's? The idle slot should show as a recangle, close to a square. Not uncovered.

Idle trim screws 2 turns out? (Or so....)
 
If you got fuel pressure the bowls have to be full or the needles are stuck. You wont have pressure while they are filling, that's why I ask were you got pressure and when.
 
What does your oil smell like? If it smells like gas, find out where its coming from

Make sure you are not sucking air in the fuel line......given that you said you can crank for 3 hours and have nothing.....after an extended crank you should have gas, so somethings wrong there......get gas to the carb reliably when its cold........as rumblefish stated, put a thick gasket under the carb to thermally isolate from the intake when its warm

Good luck!
 
My 600 Eddie, 74 Swinger, will backfire if I try to drive the 440 when it is cold, before aluminum heads heat up.
The float levels need to be reset so they don't dribble gas into secondaries.
Always use an anti Ethanol fighter in the fuel tank.
ddume
 
Check to see if accelerator pump shoots gas in the carb. If not means no fuel in the bowl. Have someone crank engine with fuel line disconnected at carb and check for fuel, but be careful and have a can to get fuel from the line.
 
Check valves in manual fuel pump. Should be 2. 1 in and 1 for the out.
Both came unseated in my Holley pump. Had to seat them and re peen the spots that hold them in.
 
Hey guys,
Sorry for the delay, it's been snowing non-stop, and had to dig the car out. Literally a foot on the hood.
So after finally getting the hood open, I pulled the top of the carb off. Had plenty of fuel in the bowls. surprised me actually. dug around some more, and realized that the damn accel. pump gasket/plunger had come disconnected from the shaft! I was pissed. its a brand new Edelbrock 1470, DONT buy this thing. the four tabs holding the gasket in place are insufficient. my gasket loosened up a little slipped right off during acceleration.
edl-1470_ml.jpg

Sidenote: I was at work during my original post, and forgot to mention that I have no choke in place. in fact, the ports to the choke are open, as I haven't bought an electric choke yet.

Anyway, new accel. pump, and gas is squirting properly now. thing is, is doesn't want to run right. or is still harder than hell to start rather. It tries to start now, but never really get going. after a few cranks, it will "pop" and puff white smoke indicating that its still running lean ( to my knowledge.) I haven't tried starter fluid, but with fresh gas, it shouldn't be starved. With the Accel. pump now fixed, is this poor starting issue just a factor of the ice cold weather and no choke now? Thank you.
 
With no choke, and snow on the ground , it's going to be a crank and pump ***** to start until you get some heat in the engine. Even if you have to hook up a manual choke cable, do it.
 
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Pateras, perhaps, a fully assembled carb would work correctly. Bitching about something that is out of wack with a "Don't buy this carb." Is a bit premature don't ya think?!!!

A choke is needed in cold weather. Just as much as air is good for you to breath.
 
GeorgeH said:
With no choke, and snow on the ground , it's going to be a crank and pump ***** to start until you get some heat in the engine. Even if you have to hook up a manual choke cable.
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rumblefish360 said:
Pateras, perhaps, a fully assembled carb would work correctly. Bitching about something that is out of wack with a "Don't buy this carb." Is a bit premature don't ya think?!!!

A choke is needed in cold weather. Just as much as air is good for you to breath.
Click to expand...
Read the post. It states to not buy this Accel. pump, not the carb.; quite a difference. After I fixed the Accel. pump, my question was in reference to how truly important the choke is during the winter. Guess we can't all be as smart as the red-bearded clam.
 
philcollins said:
Running the same carb on my 360. Won't start when cold without a choke. Start within a revolution with the choke.
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Thanks. Exactly what i was looking for. Got a cable and adapter in route from Jegs. I'll post the progress.
 
Yep, that's your best bet, I like to be able to adjust the choke as needed and you need it in the cold.
 
Pateras said:
dug around some more, and realized that the damn accel. pump gasket/plunger had come disconnected from the shaft! I was pissed. its a brand new Edelbrock 1470, DONT buy this thing. the four tabs holding the gasket in place are insufficient. my gasket loosened up a little slipped right off during acceleration.

Sidenote: I was at work during my original post, and forgot to mention that I have no choke in place. in fact, the ports to the choke are open, as I haven't bought an electric choke yet.

Anyway, new accel. pump, and gas is squirting properly now. thing is, is doesn't want to run right. or is still harder than hell to start rather. It tries to start now, but never really get going. after a few cranks, it will "pop" and puff white smoke indicating that its still running lean ( to my knowledge.) I haven't tried starter fluid, but with fresh gas, it shouldn't be starved. With the Accel. pump now fixed, is this poor starting issue just a factor of the ice cold weather and no choke now? Thank you.
Click to expand...

OK, I read it again. And It still reads your carb is not fully assembled, I read "Don't buy this" as in the carb and not the plunger, and you bust my balls? But yet your here for help and know nothing about carbs?

Ummmmm, yeaaaaaa, OK! Go smoke another!
 
He says NOT to buy the 1470, but doesn't bother to say what TO buy. What's the supposed "good" pump?
 
brian6pac said:
Rumblefish360, I'm not here to bust anybody's balls but your wrong. He say's Edelbrock 1470. Don't buy this thing.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1470
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Why sure you are and I'm not wrong in the way I understood it. It's the way I read it. I read it wrong? OK, perhaps he needed to be clearer.

He corrected how he felt and I'm OK with it in his way of seeing it.

Your two cents not needed.
I am all so very sure he can and will defend himself as he sees fit.

Now what is wrong with that part?
Why were his gaskets going places?
I no longer really give two craps. He is in good hands here. He'll get his car up and running as soon as he starts with "A complete carb properly operating & set."
 
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Pateras said:
Read the post. It states to not buy this Accel. pump, not the carb.; quite a difference. After I fixed the Accel. pump, my question was in reference to how truly important the choke is during the winter. Guess we can't all be as smart as the red-bearded clam.
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I did read the post , gave you an answer, and it would seem you followed my advice. I didn't realize that your delicate and needed it sugar coated and spoon fed. My bad.
 
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GeorgeH said:
I did read the post , gave you an answer, and it would seem you followed my advice. I didn't realize that your delicate and needed it sugar coated and spoon fed. My bad.
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I was replying to Rumble, not you George, not sure why it replied to your post. but thank you. This is problem with these forums, you catch someone in a bad mood, and the conversation goes sideways, people interpret things differently, then dig in.
I'm here asking questions because I'm no expert. I (you) solved the Accel pump issue, but ultimately am just trying to get my carb running perfectly. Trolling peoples comments solves nothing and leaves a bad taste in everyone's mouth.
Thanks to everyone giving sincere advice, as I believe I'm very close to accomplishing the goal I set out to achieve by posting.

Were all a community here, Let's be agreeable.
 
Pateras said:
After I fixed the Accel. pump, my question was in reference to how truly important the choke is during the winter. Guess we can't all be as smart as the red-bearded clam.
Click to expand...
Pateras said:
Were all a community here, Let's be agreeable.
Click to expand...
And so I did answer that.
But wonder about the last sentence.
I would love to know the thought pattern. It goes against the second quote all so very well.
I didn't throw a stone.
It seems like you did and first.
You mentioned, how people read, assume, bad moods, etc...
Seems you assumed first.
LMAO
 
Were all a community here, Let's be agreeable.
This makes no sense, we can't all agree there would not be a conversation or forum. Let's say lets try to be civil!!
I know sometimes I'm not, but I never starts out that way.
 
He's proving my "Digging in" point.

Their are remains of an electric choke on my carb. specifically, the housing is attached to the carb itself, sans any functional choke parts. There's 2 open ports (vacuum?) that open to the inside of the electric choke; do they dell a plug kit for those ports, or do you just find something to plug them with?
 
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Pateras said:
He's proving my "Digging in" point.

Their are remains of an electric choke on my carb. specifically, the housing is attached to the carb itself, sans any functional choke parts. There's 2 open ports (vacuum?) that open to the inside of the electric choke; do they dell a plug kit for those ports, or do you just find something to plug them with?
Click to expand...
The Dorman Choke delete kits I see don't contain the plugs I would expect to see, that's all.
 
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