Edelbrock heads...Am I crazy?

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KevinB

KevinB

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A refresher on what I've got and what:

66 Dart. /6 to 318 conversion. 318 is torn down awaiting a rebuild. 904 tranny, planned 8.8 Ford axle.

Goal is 318hp, anywhere from 300-325hp is ok. Plans for the 318 include Edelbrock Performer intake, 650cfm carb, Keith black dome pistons to add compression, comp cam (tbd), flat tappet lifters, electric fan, tti headers.

My question is regarding the heads. I had planned on using the stock heads and having a valve job done and get the heads milled for straightness and cleanup, not for compression. I planned on buying a timing set from summit that includes new valve springs, cam, lifters, gears, etc.

However...the cost of the head work is going to be around $500+ most likely. On summit an edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum head is $650. Hardly seems worth it to get the old restrictive heads redone when I can have shiny new aluminum better flowing heads for $150 more.

So my questions are:

1. Considering my HP goal, are the edelbrock heads "too much" in terms of air/fuel being pumped through?

2. Will the TTI headers for the 318 bolt up to these heads?

3. The summit page for these heads says that a valve job is required to match the valve size...is this true? Is this avoidable if I buy new valves that are listed as the right size to match the heads?

4. The combustion chamber volume on the edelbrock heads is 63cc, how does that compare to the standard chamber size for a 68 318 head?

Below is a link to the heads in question. Thanks for your advice!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60769/overview/make/chrysler
 
1. The Eddy heads are not "too much" but might be more than you really need for your goal. You may end up with a little extra power.

2. Yes

3. These heads are available assembled, why buy bare castings?

4. The factory 318 heads were somewhere around 67 give-or-take. So you're likely to see a slight compression increase. Without knowing the assembled deck height it's pretty hard to know what the final number would be.

There are other (iron) aftermarket heads out there that would meet your needs for less $$$.
 
C130 Chief said:
1. The Eddy heads are not "too much" but might be more than you really need for your goal. You may end up with a little extra power.

2. Yes

3. These heads are available assembled, why buy bare castings?

4. The factory 318 heads were somewhere around 67 give-or-take. So you're likely to see a slight compression increase. Without knowing the assembled deck height it's pretty hard to know what the final number would be.

There are other (iron) aftermarket heads out there that would meet your needs for less $$$.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info...if the factory heads are 4cc larger then that would be a compression decrease...but of how much?

You're point about the assembled heads is valid, at $800 that's not terrible, and I wouldn't have to buy springs.

I'm leaning towards the aluminum heads for the weight savings and cool factor
 
FJ5 said:
That's $650.00 each.
Click to expand...

Yeah.. Your work is $500/pr. For the level you want I would spend to have the guides and spring seats cut, and a back cut put on the intake valve while they are in there.

RPMS are $650 each, and then really should be checked out by a shop at bare minimum, be treated to a good valve job, push rod holes clearanced, and springs changed depending on the cam is best.
 
moper said:
Yeah.. Your work is $500/pr. For the level you want I would spend to have the guides and spring seats cut, and a back cut put on the intake valve while they are in there.

RPMS are $650 each, and then really should be checked out by a shop at bare minimum, be treated to a good valve job, push rod holes clearanced, and springs changed depending on the cam is best.
Click to expand...

Oh well I missed that fine point didn't I? Well that's an easy decision then! Thanks!
 
FJ5 said:
That's $650.00 each.
Click to expand...

^^^This.......To the OP, I don't think you realize that it is not going to be $150 more than the $500 to recondition your current heads...it is $650 each ($1300 for the pair) PLUS valves, springs, retainers, locks, etc. You will be in those heads over a 1000 bucks more than your current setup, just sayn. If you have the money I think it is a great investment, but for your power goal you don't need them.

Edit...........apparently I type REALLY SLOW! I got tree'ed by everyone on the board, LOL. Carry on :-D
 
Peyote, stick with the stock heads. The HP goal is doable with them.
At worst, they'll need a bowl porting for better flow to meet the goal.
What cam are you going to use?
 
kbduster said:
Did you research some new "magnum" heads?
Click to expand...

I did, but with all of the complications from an engine swap, and a rear end swap, I didn't want to be doing much swapping on the engine. I'd like to use all LA parts on it
 
flyfish said:
^^^This.......To the OP, I don't think you realize that it is not going to be $150 more than the $500 to recondition your current heads...it is $650 each ($1300 for the pair) PLUS valves, springs, retainers, locks, etc. You will be in those heads over a 1000 bucks more than your current setup, just sayn. If you have the money I think it is a great investment, but for your power goal you don't need them
Click to expand...

Took the words out of my mouth..lol carry on..:D
 
Aerohead cylinder heads good stock replacement I've had them on my car for 3 years no problems cheap too.
 
Have you considered bare Speed Master (aka ProComp) or Engine Quest Magnum Heads?
 
OK, I would use the XE268. IMO, this will crest the 300HP mark and give the broadest torque curve and best breathing since it is a split duration cam with stock heads. I don't know if domed pistons are the best choice. The KB flat tops should be able to give you a good ratio. I would look to no higher than 10-1. (And thats pushing it!)

IF there is any work to be done to the heads beyond a good valve job & spring replacement, look into porting the bowl area. (Right under the valve.) There is more to gain from air flow than compression.
IF it is in the budget, purchase 360 sized valves @ 1.88 int. & 1.60 exhaust and then have the bowls ported.

Look into the types of valves available.
Find a on line compression ratio calculator.
Go to the KB web site and get the info on the piston. They also have a side bar with general compression ratio results with various head cc's and a gasket thickness that they list. (IIRC, it is .039.)
 
kingvern said:
Do not use there springs or valves. buy the bare castings. you will be much happier in the long run. Don't ask me how I know.
Click to expand...

Really been running Edelbrocks for 6 years on 2 different motors with the installed springs and valves..not one single issue..
 
Back to the original question..no your not crazy for considering the Edelbrocks especially if your planning upgrades in the future i love mine and will never be using steel heads again..unless they're W-2's:D:D
 
stroked340 said:
Really been running Edelbrocks for 6 years on 2 different motors with the installed springs and valves..not one single issue..
Click to expand...

stroked340 said:
Back to the original question..no your not crazy for considering the Edelbrocks especially if your planning upgrades in the future i love mine and will never be using steel heads again..unless they're W-2's:D:D
Click to expand...

Ditto on both. But his budget is still yet to be revealed.
I've have my Edelbrock heads for over 15 years now and I have no issues with them . OOTB and on the engine. On a third engine now.
 
thesiren74 said:
Aerohead cylinder heads good stock replacement I've had them on my car for 3 years no problems cheap too.
Click to expand...

You weren't' kidding….$400 for the pair is a great deal.

I think these are the way to go for my budget and goals…I see they have an option for larger valves for $50…should I do it? what kind of performance change would that give?

Hardened seats are $80. I plan on driving the car under 100 miles a week. Is it a good idea to spring for that as well?


Using the KB 167 flat top pistons gives a piston head volume of +5cc. Plugging in the following numbers into the KB calculator I get a CR of roughly 8:1. What am I doing wrong here?

Cylinder head volume: 69 (arrowhead says 67-70)
piston head volume: 5.0
gasket thickness: .039
Gasket bore: 3.92
Cylinder bore: 3.91
Deck Clearance: .06
Stroke: 3.31

Obviously I want more compression than that…my goal was 9.5 to 9.8:1
 
Yes remember that article i also remember they also blew it up!!!
 
rumblefish360 said:
OK, I would use the XE268. IMO, this will crest the 300HP mark and give the broadest torque curve and best breathing since it is a split duration cam with stock heads. I don't know if domed pistons are the best choice. The KB flat tops should be able to give you a good ratio. I would look to no higher than 10-1. (And thats pushing it!)

IF there is any work to be done to the heads beyond a good valve job & spring replacement, look into porting the bowl area. (Right under the valve.) There is more to gain from air flow than compression.
IF it is in the budget, purchase 360 sized valves @ 1.88 int. & 1.60 exhaust and then have the bowls ported.

Look into the types of valves available.
Find a on line compression ratio calculator.
Go to the KB web site and get the info on the piston. They also have a side bar with general compression ratio results with various head cc's and a gasket thickness that they list. (IIRC, it is .039.)
Click to expand...


This camshaft kit I think includes the cam you mentioned:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k20-223-3/overview/make/dodge

Seems like it is what I'm looking for….I'm not building a race engine here, just something fast and reliable.

See my other post in this thread about the compression ratio calculator.
 
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