Edelbrock heads with OEM manifolds

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Kenflo

Kenflo

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Does anyone have any experience with using OEM cast iron manifolds with edelbrock aluminum heads? Apparently, according to edelbrock installation manual the 2863553 (68-70) drivers side manifold will not work. Will the 71-73 year drivers side work? Also would the exit port be the same size on a 71-73 vs the 68-70?
 
Your not specific about which Edelbrock heads that you're referring to but I found this.
 
The heads are the Performer RPM and their install notes read:
1695845251256.png
 
I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with using any OEM stock manifolds with the edelbrock heads on a small block 340 a body
 
Kenflo said:
Does anyone have any experience with using OEM cast iron manifolds with edelbrock aluminum heads? Apparently, according to edelbrock installation manual the 2863553 (68-70) drivers side manifold will not work. Will the 71-73 year drivers side work? Also would the exit port be the same size on a 71-73 vs the 68-70?
Click to expand...

So they hit on the left with 66 manifold’s. I ground a bit off the head corner and bought a header flange to space it out 3/8”. Toth heads and ‘73 manifolds same story but Bruce knew where the water jackets were in his heads and I was able to take enough off the head to install the ‘73 OEM manifold.
 
This is where the interference is:
1695854066989.png

The downleg of the exhaust manifold is designed to closely hug the factory head and block in order to give the maximum amount of steering column clearance. The early manifolds did not have to contend with the enlarged exhaust port pad introduced on later heads to accommodate air injection ports. The Eddies seem to have carried this design feature to an extreme, in addition to also beefing up the bottom edge of the head along the head bolt bosses.
1695854995308.png

The later 340/360 manifolds will clear the later factory heads, but I'm pretty sure you're still going to have issues with them on the edelbrock heads.
The solution is exactly what @Jim Kueneman laid out- use a bare header flange to space the manifold out a bit, along with a slight bit of judicious grinding.
1695855369324.png

You'll only need to use one on the driver's side.
DO NOT be tempted to simply grind enough clearance entirely off the head. There are water jackets in there just under the surface, and I have hit them on stock heads- I don't imagine the Eddies are much different. Play it safe and use the flange.
 
We ground some off the manifold. And used thick header gaskets.
 
Did you already purchase the cylinder heads?

Personally I don’t see a point of using exhaust manifolds for a head described as a street strip head when very similar performance (and air flow) and be found with the OEM head with some porting. It would more than likely be cheaper and certainly for sure if you do most of not all the work yourself.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Did you already purchase the cylinder heads?

Personally I don’t see a point of using exhaust manifolds for a head described as a street strip head when very similar performance (and air flow) and be found with the OEM head with some porting. It would more than likely be cheaper and certainly for sure if you do most of not all the work yourself.
Click to expand...

Mine were cars for my daughters in the desert. I wanted no chance of detonation and cooler running. The Edelbrock and Toth heads both did wonders for that.
 
Jim Kueneman said:
Mine were cars for my daughters in the desert. I wanted no chance of detonation and cooler running. The Edelbrock and Toth heads both did wonders for that.
Click to expand...
Sounds awesome except, you want no chance of detonation?
What cam, compression, and timing are you running?
Why would an iron head have this over a aluminum head?
I get the outdoor heat factor of where you live.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Sounds awesome except, you want no chance of detonation?
What cam, compression, and timing are you running?
Why would an iron head have this over a aluminum head?
I get the outdoor heat factor of where you live.
Click to expand...

9.5:1 on the Aluminum head cars. Had 8:5:1 on my stock steel head 318. All run plates to allow 18 degrees idle and 30 all in. Cams are all low duration hitting around 7.5 dynamic and 185 PSI cranking (the cast head build was lower) My car with the stock cast heads and low compression pinged like a bugger and struggled with over heating in traffic. Both the aluminum head 318 and 360 have never pinged and run cool. All radiators are 4 core done by GlenRay.
 
Jim Kueneman said:
9.5:1 on the Aluminum head cars. Had 8:5:1 on my stock steel head 318. All run plates to allow 18 degrees idle and 30 all in. Cams are all low duration hitting around 7.5 dynamic and 185 PSI cranking (the cast head build was lower) My car with the stock cast heads and low compression pinged like a bugger and struggled with over heating in traffic. Both the aluminum head 318 and 360 have never pinged and run cool. All radiators are 4 core done by GlenRay.
Click to expand...
Sounds like ya got it whipped. Excellent.
I never had to deal with that kind of heat you have. I have to agree that the aluminum does run cooler. This was in lower New York.

What kind of fan are you running?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Sounds like ya got it whipped. Excellent.
I never had to deal with that kind of heat you have. I have to agree that the aluminum does run cooler. This was in lower New York.

What kind of fan are you running?
Click to expand...

All have AC with the 7 blade clutch fans. Factory shrouds.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Sounds like ya got it whipped. Excellent.
I never had to deal with that kind of heat you have. I have to agree that the aluminum does run cooler. This was in lower New York.

What kind of fan are you running?
Click to expand...

Where in lower NY? I’m from Oneonta
 
Professor Fate said:
This is where the interference is:
View attachment 1716147086
The downleg of the exhaust manifold is designed to closely hug the factory head and block in order to give the maximum amount of steering column clearance. The early manifolds did not have to contend with the enlarged exhaust port pad introduced on later heads to accommodate air injection ports. The Eddies seem to have carried this design feature to an extreme, in addition to also beefing up the bottom edge of the head along the head bolt bosses.
View attachment 1716147095
The later 340/360 manifolds will clear the later factory heads, but I'm pretty sure you're still going to have issues with them on the edelbrock heads.
The solution is exactly what @Jim Kueneman laid out- use a bare header flange to space the manifold out a bit, along with a slight bit of judicious grinding.
View attachment 1716147098
You'll only need to use one on the driver's side.
DO NOT be tempted to simply grind enough clearance entirely off the head. There are water jackets in there just under the surface, and I have hit them on stock heads- I don't imagine the Eddies are much different. Play it safe and use the flange.
Click to expand...

Toth heads are more forgiving but have a long conversation with Bruce before pulling the trigger on the grinder.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Did you already purchase the cylinder heads?

Personally I don’t see a point of using exhaust manifolds for a head described as a street strip head when very similar performance (and air flow) and be found with the OEM head with some porting. It would more than likely be cheaper and certainly for sure if you do most of not all the work yourself.
Click to expand...
I all ready have the heads they have been in the car for about 8 years with Doug's headers. Time for new exhaust though and been considering going to a quieter system. I am not really interested in grinding the aluminum heads though. Maybe Schumacher Try-y's will be the way to go? Mostly looking for a system that is easier to install less heat and less noise
 
To answer the original question, I ran early 340 manifolds with Edelbrock Performer RPM heads on my 65 Barracuda. The driver's side down tube did interfere with the head in the location described above (#8). Not knowing any better, I just ground on the head until the manifold fit. Never has leaked. Maybe I was just lucky. Have TTI headers now, still same heads.

1695867991813.png
 
Jim Kueneman said:
I’m sold on aluminum heads on any small block for lots of reasons.
Click to expand...
Ditto
Jim Kueneman said:
Where in lower NY? I’m from Oneonta
Click to expand...
Long Island, lived my second half of life in Suffolk county.
Kenflo said:
I all ready have the heads they have been in the car for about 8 years with Doug's headers. Time for new exhaust though and been considering going to a quieter system. I am not really interested in grinding the aluminum heads though. Maybe Schumacher Try-y's will be the way to go? Mostly looking for a system that is easier to install less heat and less noise
Click to expand...
The exhaust manifolds are the most quiet and heat easy in the engine bay.
Headers release more heat, coated, slightly less. If they’re wrapped, heat is close to exhaust manifolds, but there’s caveats to it. The wrap retains water and will rust out the headers. Companies that coat headers do not recommend wrapping coated headers as it damages the coating.

The style of header and tube size have little to do with heat or noise.

IMO, if quite (inside the car) is your goal, then exhaust manifolds are the way to go and a little grinding on the head won’t hurt and take a little time. Totally worth it.

The muffler is the real big player on inside sound. Not knowing what you have now, I can only suggest as long of a muffler as you can fit and if need be, glass packs before the muffler.

Sound deadening is super helpful as well. That’s another can of worms. EZ, but it takes time to empty the interior and reinstall it after you’re done with the sound deadening material.

I’m not sure how you are about the horse power and it’s potential and probable loss with a quieter muffler, but Walker makes the sound fx muffler that is t very good at releasing hp. But it is quite. Do note they neck down in pipe size once inside the mufflers main body.
 
Just be aware that the early 340 manifolds cost a lot more than they did 15-20 years ago. I sold mine for enough money to pay for the TTI headers.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Ditto

Long Island, lived my second half of life in Suffolk county.

The exhaust manifolds are the most quiet and heat easy in the engine bay.
Headers release more heat, coated, slightly less. If they’re wrapped, heat is close to exhaust manifolds, but there’s caveats to it. The wrap retains water and will rust out the headers. Companies that coat headers do not recommend wrapping coated headers as it damages the coating.

The style of header and tube size have little to do with heat or noise.

IMO, if quite (inside the car) is your goal, then exhaust manifolds are the way to go and a little grinding on the head won’t hurt and take a little time. Totally worth it.

The muffler is the real big player on inside sound. Not knowing what you have now, I can only suggest as long of a muffler as you can fit and if need be, glass packs before the muffler.

Sound deadening is super helpful as well. That’s another can of worms. EZ, but it takes time to empty the interior and reinstall it after you’re done with the sound deadening material.

I’m not sure how you are about the horse power and it’s potential and probable loss with a quieter muffler, but Walker makes the sound fx muffler that is t very good at releasing hp. But it is quite. Do note they neck down in pipe size once inside the mufflers main body.
Click to expand...

Headers make a significant difference in performance but the trade off is a personal choice. I choose to have stock manifolds for several reasons including heat and clearance.
 
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