Electric choke question

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Den's Dart

Den's Dart

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Hey guys, thanks for all your help so far (well except for the un-answered thread about the brake bleeder screws lol)!

I have a couple of questions about the electric choke. I did some searching on here and didn't find much in regards to this so I hope this isn't newbie repeat questions!

On my 340 I have an Edelbrock carb (I believe it is a 1406) with an electric choke. I am still sorting out tons of issues with it but one of the probs I have is a rough low idle upon start up. Unfortunately I haven't even been able to warm it up properly as the tires have dry rot and need to be replaced before I will even take it out of my driveway!

I am not very familiar with electric chokes (all my cars are EFI and my bikes have all been manual choke)....first of all, how do I engage it? Is it a normally closed and the wire leads/relay open it when it is warm? Or is it normally open and the wires/relay close it when it is cold? The reason I ask is I was poking around with it and I disconnected the power lead and didn't hear any click or anything. This lead me to think that maybe I wasn't getting power (oh yeah I fogrgot to mention I did this in the run position but without the motor running). I checked the leads and I am getting about 8.9v. The red wire does not go directly to power but rather to the white ceramic thing (name has jumped out of my mind!).

If anyone can give me some electric choke for dummies info I would appreciate it.

If this has been discussed then a point in the direction of the other thread would be appreciated as well!!

Thanks again,
Dennis
 
on my holly you need a Full 12 volts coming to it when the key is on, it is closed
when cold, opens as it warms up
 
If your talking about the ceramic balast resistor then someone has been messing around. I don't think your power for the choke should be coming from there. Usually it's a 12 volt feed that gets power when the key is in the on position.
 
yes thank you!!! the name jumped out of my head and I just couldn't think of it....that is where the wire appears to go at first glance. The wiring has definitely been played with on this car to say the least!!

So how do you engage it then? and does the relay force the choke plates open?
 
It doesn't have a relay so you won't hear a click. All that's in there is a electric heater element that expands and contracts depending on temperature. When it is cold the element pulls the choke closed and when power is applied (i.e. you start the engine) electricity heats up the element and it pushes the choke open.

Sounds like you have the choke wired to the coil side of the ballast resistor. That's not a good thing because that resistor already gets hot from all the power running through it. Now you've added another power pull on it. That could very well leave you setting on the side of the road (once you get new tires, lol). You should attach the choke wire to the other side of the ballast resistor making sure you have close to 12 volts there. Another reason for this is with the lower voltage source you have it hooked to now will cause the choke to be much slower opening and may cause it to run too rich.
 
When the key is on and supplying voltage it warms up the interal spring/coil and in turn opens the plate.
 
In 73 there was a creamic resistor mounted on the intake that slowed choke operation by lowering the voltage. With an aftermatket carb that choke would probably function best with full 12 volts.
 
I think his is a 70 dart. It sounds like the balast if it's on the firewall unless it's the wiper balast. Not sure if 70's came with a balast on the wipers.. Personally I wouldnt run the choke from the balast. I like keeping that circuit clean.
 
.................That little ceramic ballast is factory on some 73 up mopars, lowers voltage as it heats up..........ur eddy needs 12 volts.................also there is an adj screw 2 speed up the rpms........or the choke may be on 2 much and need leaning out.............kim........
 
Yeah it is a 70. Although it was a factory /6 that someone converted to the 340. Yes it is the ballast resistor up by the firewall (not actually attached - again one of the many little things!)

I have lots of fun little issues like this to sort out. I did change the plugs on the weekend as it felt like it was missing. Sure enough 7 of 8 were badly carbon covered. After changing the plugs though it still has a rough idle. Also I suspect the non fouled one may not have any fire at all as it looked really good and I seem to still have that miss. I will need to have a closer look at the wires to see if there is a partial open on that cylinder.


Man I need someone in my neck of the woods who wants to drink my beer and point out stuff like this....I have a lot to learn but am enjoying the journey! I can't afford to hire a mechanic but I would gladly trade beer for knowledge lol...

Dennis
 
Den's Dart said:
Man I need someone in my neck of the woods who wants to drink my beer and point out stuff like this....I have a lot to learn but am enjoying the journey! I can't afford to hire a mechanic but I would gladly trade beer for knowledge lol...

Dennis
Click to expand...

I'd be your guy....but, sadly, I live too far away.:cheers::toothy10:
 
Den's Dart said:
Yeah it is a 70. Although it was a factory /6 that someone converted to the 340. Yes it is the ballast resistor up by the firewall (not actually attached - again one of the many little things!)

I have lots of fun little issues like this to sort out. I did change the plugs on the weekend as it felt like it was missing. Sure enough 7 of 8 were badly carbon covered. After changing the plugs though it still has a rough idle. Also I suspect the non fouled one may not have any fire at all as it looked really good and I seem to still have that miss. I will need to have a closer look at the wires to see if there is a partial open on that cylinder.


Man I need someone in my neck of the woods who wants to drink my beer and point out stuff like this....I have a lot to learn but am enjoying the journey! I can't afford to hire a mechanic but I would gladly trade beer for knowledge lol...

Dennis
Click to expand...

I'd be glad to help but that drive from Illinois to Canada is a killer. LOL
 
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