Electric choke source

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ratvon

ratvon

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Where is a good place to get a 12 volt source for a Holley electric choke can't really go to the ballast resistor because that's where my pertronix 3 is getting its power I seen a guy talking about getting a 3-way oil sending unit but I believe those are only five volts going to the sending unit and I don't know if that would work if anybody has any input on that I would appreciate it . Ive read not to use the alternator either. Is there a good way to tie into the fuse box because I have a tach that needs power also
 
Yes! You can tap the same spot for power that your distributor is getting it from. It won't effect the distributors operation.

Any wire that is dead with the key out but live with the key in the run position will do.

The Voltage is stepped down inside the car to allow the gauges not To burn up.
 
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Okay I really don't want to run it there because that's where my distributor is getting its power and from what I read is you don't want to overload that blue wire
 
ratvon said:
Okay I really don't want to run it there because that's where my distributor is getting its power and from what I read is you don't want to overload that blue wire
Click to expand...
Won't happen.
 
It'll work. My MSD ignition and the electric choke both get power there. I don't think a tach draws many amps. That could be hooked up under the dash, if you are concerned. I'm pretty sure my tach gets power from the wire that feeds power to the radio. Been a long time.
 
The real issue on overloading a wire is it's ability to hold, transfer, conduct, etc... yadda, yadda, yadda

Wire gauge size and amp capacity is what your concerned about. Also, alternator output.
 
Take it from me you need to look in the mirror, take a deep breath, and back it way WWWAAYYY down, here. Rumble gave you a good answer

"You don't want" to take power off the dark blue?" THERE IS NO other source

There is only ONE (two) sources of power for ignition under the hood

1.....Nombaw whan is the dark blue IGN1 otherwise most years "dark blue". This is hot ONLY in the run postion ONLY!!! It is the ONLY wire coming through the bulkhead that feeds anything at all in the "run" position. If you don't want to overload it........that's easy...........cut it, put a relay in there, and then pull loads off the relay

2.....Number teu is the brown IGN2 bypass circuit which is hot ONLY in "start." This goes to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. When eliminating the ballast, IGN1 and IGN2 MUST be tied together.....as again, the blue is not hot in "start."

So see? Rumble was RIGHT, wasn't he?
 
Read on, OP, LISTEN UP!!! This is IMPORTANT!!! There IS a real issue with the IGN1 "run" dark blue wire, and it has nothing to do with "overload." It has to do with somewhat poor design, and 50 years of wear tear, corrosion and etc

That is, the current path from the battery to the blue wire at the ballast results in VOLTAGE DROP through that harness. The end result of this is the VOLTAGE REGULATOR does not receive proper voltage, and it adjusts..........by overvoltage at the battery.

Here again, adding a relay can relieve the "already" strained dark blue of problems. The fact is, your choke wire is not what is gonna "break" this deal, it is most likely "already" the problem
 
67Dart273 said:
Read on, OP, LISTEN UP!!! This is IMPORTANT!!! There IS a real issue with the IGN1 "run" dark blue wire, and it has nothing to do with "overload." It has to do with somewhat poor design, and 50 years of wear tear, corrosion and etc

That is, the current path from the battery to the blue wire at the ballast results in VOLTAGE DROP through that harness. The end result of this is the VOLTAGE REGULATOR does not receive proper voltage, and it adjusts..........by overvoltage at the battery.

Here again, adding a relay can relieve the "already" strained dark blue of problems. The fact is, your choke wire is not what is gonna "break" this deal, it is most likely "already" the problem
Click to expand...
Wait a minute one of our posts are gone by rumble fish I didn't get to reply to it
 
67Dart273 said:
Take it from me you need to look in the mirror, take a deep breath, and back it way WWWAAYYY down, here. Rumble gave you a good answer

"You don't want" to take power off the dark blue?" THERE IS NO other source

There is only ONE (two) sources of power for ignition under the hood

1.....Nombaw whan is the dark blue IGN1 otherwise most years "dark blue". This is hot ONLY in the run postion ONLY!!! It is the ONLY wire coming through the bulkhead that feeds anything at all in the "run" position. If you don't want to overload it........that's easy...........cut it, put a relay in there, and then pull loads off the relay

2.....Number teu is the brown IGN2 bypass circuit which is hot ONLY in "start." This goes to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. When eliminating the ballast, IGN1 and IGN2 MUST be tied together.....as again, the blue is not hot in "start."

So see? Rumble was RIGHT, wasn't he?
Click to expand...
No other source ? I was thinking
67Dart273 said:
Take it from me you need to look in the mirror, take a deep breath, and back it way WWWAAYYY down, here. Rumble gave you a good answer

"You don't want" to take power off the dark blue?" THERE IS NO other source

There is only ONE (two) sources of power for ignition under the hood

1.....Nombaw whan is the dark blue IGN1 otherwise most years "dark blue". This is hot ONLY in the run postion ONLY!!! It is the ONLY wire coming through the bulkhead that feeds anything at all in the "run" position. If you don't want to overload it........that's easy...........cut it, put a relay in there, and then pull loads off the relay

2.....Number teu is the brown IGN2 bypass circuit which is hot ONLY in "start." This goes to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. When eliminating the ballast, IGN1 and IGN2 MUST be tied together.....as again, the blue is not hot in "start."

So see? Rumble was RIGHT, wasn't he?
Click to expand...
 
67Dart273 said:
Take it from me you need to look in the mirror, take a deep breath, and back it way WWWAAYYY down, here. Rumble gave you a good answer

"You don't want" to take power off the dark blue?" THERE IS NO other source

There is only ONE (two) sources of power for ignition under the hood

1.....Nombaw whan is the dark blue IGN1 otherwise most years "dark blue". This is hot ONLY in the run postion ONLY!!! It is the ONLY wire coming through the bulkhead that feeds anything at all in the "run" position. If you don't want to overload it........that's easy...........cut it, put a relay in there, and then pull loads off the relay

2.....Number teu is the brown IGN2 bypass circuit which is hot ONLY in "start." This goes to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. When eliminating the ballast, IGN1 and IGN2 MUST be tied together.....as again, the blue is not hot in "start."

So see? Rumble was RIGHT, wasn't he?
Click to expand...
Under hood yes but like in my first post I asked about a proper way from the fuse box or even the key switch also I was wanting to know if the 3 pronged oil sendng idea would work... read my concern about it being 5v would it back feed to the gauges ? I'll admit I'm not an electrical engineer but I'm trying to maybe open up other ideas or options I like to exhaust and explore all options and understand everything about what I'm working on so I thought I would go to people that know more about it than me
 
There is ONLY ONE "ignition run" source. Period. It comes from the ignition switch "ign1" terminal. Anything in the fuse panel is "accessory" and that means the choke will be heating if you are listening to the radio

If you want to add a different oil sender like used on more modern electric pumps go with that
 
I had the same concerns ratvon. I ran a new circuit off the starter relay to an auxiliary small fuse panel mounted to the back of the glove box, then operated choke, tac, off toggle switches, with indicator lights to remind you they`re on. Lotta BS to go through? yeah, but I have peace of mind knowing nothing is being drawn from my ign. circut and the new circuits are fuse protected. Plus future taps for any thing else added. The next owner can rip that **** out if so inclined:rolleyes:
 
67Dart273 said:
There is ONLY ONE "ignition run" source. Period. It comes from the ignition switch "ign1" terminal. Anything in the fuse panel is "accessory" and that means the choke will be heating if you are listening to the radio

If you want to add a different oil sender like used on more modern electric pumps go with that
Click to expand...
67Dart273 said:
There is ONLY ONE "ignition run" source. Period. It comes from the ignition switch "ign1" terminal. Anything in the fuse panel is "accessory" and that means the choke will be heating if you are listening to the radio

If you want to add a different oil sender like used on more modern electric pumps go with that
Click to expand...
Well if I run a fused hot wire through an oil sending unit with two normally open leads that way the choke doesn't open until the engine is running and shuts down with the engine even if the key is on so I guess there is more than one source isnt there?
 
mopar head said:
I had the same concerns ratvon. I ran a new circuit off the starter relay to an auxiliary small fuse panel mounted to the back of the glove box, then operated choke, tac, off toggle switches, with indicator lights to remind you they`re on. Lotta BS to go through? yeah, but I have peace of mind knowing nothing is being drawn from my ign. circut and the new circuits are fuse protected. Plus future taps for any thing else added. The next owner can rip that **** out if so inclined:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Great idea ! now that's how this forum is supposed to work there are always guys thinking outside the box and improving on things you cant beat a topic to death someone somewhere always has an idea
 
I have an Edelbrock electric heat choke and I just checked the amperage draw and was surprised that it drew 1.75 amps. I thought it would be much less. So the relay sounds like a pretty good idea.
 
tonysrt said:
I have an Edelbrock electric heat choke and I just checked the amperage draw and was surprised that it drew 1.75 amps. I thought it would be much less. So the relay sounds like a pretty good idea.
Click to expand...
Ya i agree thank you
 
what about taking the 12 volts from the windshield wiper motor, I believe there is a brown wire that is live only when the key is on.
 
Listen, the 3 prong oil pressure switch method is the same one chrysler used....it also PREVENTS heating up the choke coil if switch is on, and engine not running. Something none of the other methods account for
 
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