Electrical installation advice and next steps

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As for your alternator...

I found this...

Screenshot_20220418-162430.png



So since one of your field terminals is grounded it is fair to say that at one time the VR could have been this type...

Screenshot_20220418-162744.png


You hook the ign terminal to the run side of the ignition switch and the Fld side to the other non grounded field terminal on the alt.

This verys the strength of the field and regulates the voltage depending on the load.

Can the VR you have do the same???? I just don't know.
 
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Made two changes.
The starter should have a large terminal connected to the battery.
It should also have a small terminal that powers the starter's solenoid. Connect that to the relay's solenoid terminal.
upload_2022-4-18_19-7-3.png


To use that voltage regulator. I think the sketch 67Dart273 posted is the one to follow.
Voltage regulator terminals:
I can be used with key switch and a lamp and resistor.
F goes to field
A probably acts as the voltage sensing terminal.

if so, then connect the regulator F to the insulator alternator brush.
upload_2022-4-18_19-24-45.png


I think its better not connecting everything at the starter.
Easier acccess, cooler if joining the alternator output at the starter relay or key switch
 
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As for your alternator...

I found this...

View attachment 1715910145


So since one of your field terminals is grounded it is fair to say that at one time the VR could have been this type...

View attachment 1715910147

You hook the ign terminal to the run side of the ignition switch and the Fld side to the other non grounded field terminal on the alt.

This verys the strength of the field and regulates the voltage depending on the load.

Can the VR you have do the same???? I just don't know.
He could use either Chrysler type regulator as long as the field draw isn't too high.

The one he has should work. Just don't know enough about S and I to be 100% certain of the hookups.
 
This would be a Starter Circuit using a Chrysler starter.
upload_2022-4-18_21-8-19.png

With key held in start, the relay gets power (yellow wire). This internally connects the relay's battery junction with the solenoid terminal. When the starter solenoid gets powered, it acts like a relay and the starter motor draws power from the heavy battery wire.
The starter wire should be at least 6 gage.
The wire to the relay should be at least 10 gage.
The solenoid wire should be 14 gage .

The alternator output wire should also be at least 12 gage.
If using a simple positive switching regulator, the wiring is like this. It will need to be mounted well for grounding.
upload_2022-4-18_21-29-24.png


Exactly how you wire the connections depends on the layout.
For example this accomplishes the same as above.
upload_2022-4-18_21-32-47.png


(edit. might be an issue with the brown ignition start wire between switch and ballast. see below)
 
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I would be tempted to not wire up the alternator as you have it shown for now to just get the engine fired up.

After the engine is running you can do some testing on the alternator and see for sure what you have going on.
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Wow. Thank you guys for taking the time to help us. I'm really grateful
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Dana pointed out another potential backfeed problem with the way I drew direct feeding the coil during start.

It is possible that the starter relay's coil has less resistance than the ignition coil.
If so, then with key in run, electricity will flow through the brown ignition wire to the yellow start wire and energize the relay.
A Chrysler key switch has two terminals for start. They may only be connected when key is in start position.

Using your key switch, it may be neccessary to add a device to seperate ignition feed from starter relay.
Sorry but a little more investigation will be needed here. I can check a switch but wont be until later in the week.
If you have a multi-meter, measure the resistance across the starter relay. Compare that with the coil's primary resistance.

upload_2022-4-19_8-17-20.png


Do you know if you switch's ignition terminal is connected to power with the key in start?
If it is, then the brown direct wire is not neccessary. It does make for a stronger spark.
upload_2022-4-19_8-39-4.png
 
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Dana pointed out another potential backfeed problem with the way I drew direct feeding the coil during start.

It is possible that the starter relay's coil has less resistance than the ignition coil.
If so, then with key in run, electricity will flow through the brown ignition wire to the yellow start wire and energize the relay.
A Chrysler key switch has two terminals for start. They may only be connected when key is in start position.

Using your key switch, it may be neccessary to add a device to seperate ignition feed from starter relay.
Sorry but a little more investigation will be needed here. I can check a switch but wont be until later in the week.
If you have a multi-meter, measure the resistance across the starter relay. Compare that with the coil's primary resistance.

View attachment 1715910315

Do you know if you switch's ignition terminal is connected to power with the key in start?
If it is, then the brown direct wire is not neccessary. It does make for a stronger spark.
View attachment 1715910320
This is the ign switch I'm using,
Starter Switch | 85936Z | Heavy Duty Ignition Switch w/ Key | Dorman Products

20220419_104342.jpg
 
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