Electrical ??

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Old Tired Rebel

Old Tired Rebel

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My voltage regulator did a melt down yesterday, my son put on a new voltage regulator,new alternator belt since the old one was stretched so far out there was no adjustment. I left to go pick up my son a little while ago everything was nice and bright. When I stopped outside the building where he was at I noticed everything got dim and so did the engine (this kept cycling like this until it was under load). The belt was tighten properly nice and tight with about a 1/4 in play in it. Any idea's of what it could be?
 
Maybe since the VR went, could the alt be on the way out?? I could be wrong, but you should be getting between 14-15 volts out of the alternator?? Oh maybe when the young lad changed the VR, the new one didnt get mounted solidly??
 
4spdragtop said:
Maybe since the VR went, could the alt be on the way out?? I could be wrong, but you should be getting between 14-15 volts out of the alternator?? Oh maybe when the young lad changed the VR, the new one didnt get mounted solidly??
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Yeah it's mounted solidly. They Checked the voltage after the new one went on and showed 14.5 volts to the battery. I can take it tomorrow and get it rechecked now the battery has a full charge. If it only did it in park I would think it was the alt. but it also does it when I come to a stop at a light.
 
Sounds like the alt...I would chk the alt at idle. Then chk it at part throttle. Im no elec guru, but I think the output of the alt should be constant and not fluctuate...
 
4spdragtop said:
Sounds like the alt...I would chk the alt at idle. Then chk it at part throttle. Im no elec guru, but I think the output of the alt should be constant and not fluctuate...
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Thanks Steve I will get it checked tomorrow. It wouldn't be so bad but I have a factory 114 amp alt and it has to be special ordered,unless I can find a rebuild kit.
 
Take the alt to a local jobber they should be able to test for you. If it is on the way out, chk for a local rebuilder?? Or try Rock Auto??
 
4spdragtop said:
Take the alt to a local jobber they should be able to test for you. If it is on the way out, chk for a local rebuilder?? Or try Rock Auto??
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I have been told the local guy is extremely high. It shouldn't be to hard to take it apart clean every thing inside and put new brushes inside.
 
I agree with Steve. I'd check the wiring first just to be safe to make sure the pigtail don't have any loose connections and if that passes inspection, rebuild the alternator. Oriellys should carry or be able to get all the parts needed
 
4spdragtop said:
I have only taken one alternator apart and I kinda did it blindly...what a disaster!
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It not too bad. I had to to it with the 64 valiant I had before selling it to cliff. I don't remember what the cost was on total rebuild, but it was a lot less than a new alt.
 
Old Tired Rebel said:
I have been told the local guy is extremely high. It shouldn't be to hard to take it apart clean every thing inside and put new brushes inside.
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Take it to JW's Auto Salavge south of town. He does all of my altenator and starter work and has for over 35 years. He is very reasonable. I sent a friend to him with her 2000 Durango and the bill was $82.00 with them pulling, rebuilding and reinstalling the altenator. The guy here in town was crazy high the only time I talked to him. Phone number is 547-2580 but he won't be open until Monday.
 
If you can get the brushes, diodes, rectifiers and bearings, rebuilding alternators is pretty easy. The hard part will be finding the parts. No one seems to sell them anymore. Plus, a rebuilt is pretty cheap these days. My brother probably has a half dozen laying around his garage if you want a used one. Check the output voltage first, though. These cars are notorious for dimming at idle. That's why I went to relay systems for most of my lights.
 
Mopar to ya said:
If you can get the brushes, diodes, rectifiers and bearings, rebuilding alternators is pretty easy. The hard part will be finding the parts. No one seems to sell them anymore. Plus, a rebuilt is pretty cheap these days. My brother probably has a half dozen laying around his garage if you want a used one. Check the output voltage first, though. These cars are notorious for dimming at idle. That's why I went to relay systems for most of my lights.
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I priced a rebuilt one for my car and it was $104.00+ shipping and they have to special order. Seems my car came with the big alt for 78 104 amps. Seems to be easier to rebuild it. How did you do a relay system for lights?
 
I have rebuild Chrysler alternators for years myself. Dead simple, except for the front bearing which requires a puller for the drive pully. If you are just getting no charge or low charge, check the brushes and diodes. I haven't checked lately, but diodes were available from Napa and were cheap. There are positive and negative diodes in groups of three connected by solder to the outer ring wiring. Check continuity of the armature and stator per the FSM, replace only the failed diodes and brushes, and you have a brand new alternator just like the rebuilders would do, but you did it yourself. The FSM is a gem for working on this problem.Bob
 
Also, I solved my bulkhead connector problems by wiring the alternator directly to the positive post of the starter solenoid using something like 4 gauge wiring and soldered connectors. This avoids running all electrical power through the amp meter. You now use it to just show that power is flowing positively or negatively through the system as it will be split between the two power paths. I have Ampilux H4 headlamps (work great) on the car and use Bosch relays to control power to the lights. I also have a 65 amp alternator (larger windings in the stator) instead of the original 35 amp alternator. If you have additional power using equipment on the car, like a high amp stereo or aftermarket lights, you need more output from the stock alternator. This alone can cause dimming lights and component failure.
 
RLF Cuda said:
I have rebuild Chrysler alternators for years myself. Dead simple, except for the front bearing which requires a puller for the drive pully. If you are just getting no charge or low charge, check the brushes and diodes. I haven't checked lately, but diodes were available from Napa and were cheap. There are positive and negative diodes in groups of three connected by solder to the outer ring wiring. Check continuity of the armature and stator per the FSM, replace only the failed diodes and brushes, and you have a brand new alternator just like the rebuilders would do, but you did it yourself. The FSM is a gem for working on this problem.Bob
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RLF Cuda said:
Also, I solved my bulkhead connector problems by wiring the alternator directly to the positive post of the starter solenoid using something like 4 gauge wiring and soldered connectors. This avoids running all electrical power through the amp meter. You now use it to just show that power is flowing positively or negatively through the system as it will be split between the two power paths. I have Ampilux H4 headlamps (work great) on the car and use Bosch relays to control power to the lights. I also have a 65 amp alternator (larger windings in the stator) instead of the original 35 amp alternator. If you have additional power using equipment on the car, like a high amp stereo or aftermarket lights, you need more output from the stock alternator. This alone can cause dimming lights and component failure.
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I need to come visit you. When I am ready can I pm you ????? I have no heavy stereo equipment in my car just a old am/fm cassette player with blown speakers in the front and 1 speaker in the rear that does work.
 
Old Tired Rebel said:
I priced a rebuilt one for my car and it was $104.00+ shipping and they have to special order. Seems my car came with the big alt for 78 104 amps. Seems to be easier to rebuild it. How did you do a relay system for lights?
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I bought mine elsewhere, but Crackedback here on FABO makes a great set. Send him a PM. I went with upgraded Hella headlights and the headlight switch kept popping, usually at two or three in the morning. I added the relay system and had it installed in about fifteen minutes. It draws power directly from the battery and the headlight switch only uses enough power to energize the relay. No more dimming at different rpm and constant bright lights. I am going to buy one from Crackedback to run my interior and dash lights as well. Here is Crackedback's home page link. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/member.php?u=1391
 
Mopar to ya said:
I bought mine elsewhere, but Crackedback here on FABO makes a great set. Send him a PM. I went with upgraded Hella headlights and the headlight switch kept popping, usually at two or three in the morning. I added the relay system and had it installed in about fifteen minutes. It draws power directly from the battery and the headlight switch only uses enough power to energize the relay. No more dimming at different rpm and constant bright lights. I am going to buy one from Crackedback to run my interior and dash lights as well. Here is Crackedback's home page link. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/member.php?u=1391
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I will get in touch with him. My middle son surprised me and ordered a new alt for me today. He is going to pick it up tomorrow and install it. It was tested and wasn't working right.
 
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