Electricly challenged...Help!

Electrical and Ignition

  1. 1963dartgt

    1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    OK so kind of long story but it might help to start from the beginning . Rewired my 63 dart about 4 years ago and everything worked great. Developed a rod knock march this year pulled car in the drive way disconnected the battery moved starter out of the way amd pulled the thing out. Fast forward to today. Finally get everything hooked up connect the battery and nothing not even a click. Test battery 12.3v(not bad for sitting for almost 6 months). Jump starter studs motor spins like a bat out of hell,cool. No spark. Ive got battery to motor and battery to fender and motor to firewall grounds. I have no headlights no tail lights or radio.I got spark for a second car fired right up and was running until i killed it measing with the idle. After that no freaking spark again. My dome light works only when sitting,if i hit the brake pedal,dome light goes out. Turn headlights on,dome light goes out. Turn key to run amd acc,yep you guessed it dome light goes out. On top of it all i dropped my tester and broke it. So off to buy a new one tomorrow but i figured id get on here for some tips. Thanks. Sorry motor is a slant 6 with 4 pin hei conversion and american autowire power plus 13 kit.
     
  2. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    That indicates a really poor connection that is passing minimal current to run the dome light, and when you apply other loads, it dies. Check over the bulkhead connector, check the ammeter for loose connections. Check over connections on the starter relay which are often used for a junction point.

    I don't know exactly where the fuse link is located in those old girls, maybe you got it caught on something and tore it loose when pulling/ installing engine parts. Or it may have corroded and losing connection.
     
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    • pishta

      pishta I know I'm right....

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      check off lug on relay. 20200807_202233.jpg
       
    • 1963dartgt

      1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Not the original wiring. Car has been completely rewired. Havent had a problem for years. Aftermarket gauges and no bulkheads or ballast to speak of. It has two fuseable links and both are good. Everything was shit. I checked to make sure i was getting spark after about 4 rotations i did and everything was working great. Headlight,tail lights, turn signals like not a single thing wrong and the car died and everything went to shit again.
       
    • pishta

      pishta I know I'm right....

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      start with the basics: power to coil and starter relay. Start adding circuits after that. Sometimes its easier to start from scratch than reverse engineer a birds nest.
      3435_5794502_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=da1649&_nc_ohc=bYanGQ9LBIQAX8PxKuY&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.jpg
       
      Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
    • 1963dartgt

      1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I tried everything with that darn thing ive tapped it,ive bypassed the NSS and jumped the terminals and no spark or what seems to be power after that.
       
    • 1963dartgt

      1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Like i said i rewired this thing about 4 years ago and it was fairly easy. Today i pulled the cluster and it looks like a school food fight on spaghetti day. Maybe i need to take a break tomorrow and clear my head ive been going at it like everything should work and not why its not working. Like i said i dont know much but the kit i installed has all the wires labeled so it shouldn't be to hard.
       
    • 67Dart273

      67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Well look we don't know how you wired it. The dome light is a clue, as I said before. SOMETHING that is DISTRIBUTING MAIN POWER to the main basic circuits is losing connection. This means it has to be close to the battery end of things. Start tracing from the battery......to wherever it goes.........to wherever it goes ........to wherever it goes.........to the ignition switch.......to the headlight switch........and so on.

      With modified wiring it will be difficult to help you, unless you happen to have an accurate diagram of what you did

      RE RE RE check your battery terminals!!!!
       
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      • 1963dartgt

        1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Ok ill see what i can do tomorrow with maye pics of what i did. Power Plus 13 Universal Wiring System. Heres the kit i used. I wired the starter relay like a mopar. I had to use a jumper wire between two terminals on the ignition switch because it was not suppliying 12v to the coil while cranking. And i wired the ignition for HEI. Everything else was to the T. I was looking for bad grounds but tomorrow ill look at the power circuit. Thanks again. Im sorry if i came off like an ass im just at my wits end with the machine shop fiasco and now this nightmare. I do appriciate all the help.
         
      • 67Dart273

        67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        No problem. It's just that "we can't see" what you've done with the wiring LOLOL
         
      • 67Dart273

        67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      • 67Dart273

        67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Somewhere I have an old photo of the phone room at the Spokane public safety building. It's a fairly big room in a concrete building with what might be called "free standing" plywood partitions, 8ft tall, and covered on both sides just about every square inch with 66 blocks These are not only building phones, but things like remote controls for doors (the jail and others) alarms, two way radio audio and remote control, you name it, low voltage anything. Intercoms, of course. I don't remember if video goes through there or not. Last time I was there was about 98. The county has a "many channel" microwave system that operates on several mountaintops in a circle. This of course is for redundantcy if one fails the rest are still linked. It carries various radio/ audio/ remote control functions, such as repeated audio from multiple receivers down to public safety to a "voter" and then the "voted" audio goes back out and up to whatever mountain the repeated system transmitter for that channel is on

        And not all the radio audio is on the microwave "natively" either. Some systems are on telco rented "dry pair" some on fiber, and some on uhf radio links. For example, we had three repeated channel receivers up on Deer Lake Mountain, but no microwave or phone lines available. So that audio is radio linked via 3 24hour full time low power transmitters down to three more receivers at the Deer Park water pumping station, where those receivers transfer the audio to rented pair. That goes somewhere and gets to fiber, and THAT goes somewhere to get back into the microwave, where it finally gets shot down to public safety. And to the voter for those channels.

        Confused? So am I and I helped install some of it

        One of the radio sites is REALLY interesting, it's on Lookout Point. The radio room is an old USAF underground bunker for some of their old cold war RADAR

        I rattled some cages when I pointed out that one of the remaining radomes.......made of nothing but RADAR transparent composites......has a communicating hatch to the bunker, and all some hoodlum would have to do is casually take an axe to the radome, and they would have full access to many radios.

        See if this works

        Google Maps

        If not here is a screenshot. My mouse is pointing to the radome. The "sticking out" is the 4 radomes on a concrete shell. What looks like a big building roof next to it is the top of the buried bunker. It is fenced You can see the tower "coming up to you" LOLOL

        lookout.jpg
         
        Last edited: Aug 8, 2020
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        • Oldmanmopar

          Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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          I was always taught to follow the wire . It will lead you to the problem. After a little while I found the bad wire conection .

          Brtt3BCZAjX-UJqOV-O1-53SScPDo931gxio6R-y5nHA3rbGqt0ZEnYjkjbhJT5aQEZL3yLxJClnuitqYUJ9QpQXWYZd5amg.jpg
           
        • Mike69cuda

          Mike69cuda 64 is the new 17 FABO Gold Member

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          A battery sitting for six months isn’t charged.
           
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          • 1963dartgt

            1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            if you wanna drive by ill show you. No voltage drop and still charged. Built to last,Duralast.
             
          • 1963dartgt

            1963dartgt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            So i followed battery to starter,power.starter to big stud on starter relay,power.2b runs here aswell as my pink ignition feed.Pink ignition feed has power but 2b does not at the fuse block. Both are fuseable links. I stripped the insulation back on 2b after the link and ran a jumper from the battery. EVERYTHING WORKS.Car fired up and ran.headlights and tail lights work.Blinkers and radio do aswell.So two questions can a fuseable link go bad on the inside of the insulation and can i just use a replaceable fuse in its spot.

            20200808_090614.jpg

            20200808_090557.jpg
             
          • 67Dart273

            67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            ........And there ya go........

            (Damn I was right for once? LOL)
             
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            • 67Dart273

              67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I sort of told you that earlier. Yeh just get a replacement. Fuse links are a PITA because back in the day they were a part number you bought. There were no published specs. You might contact Autowire or wherever that kit came from
               
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