Electronic Distributors From Rick Ehrenberg

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After reading that ad, I would modify my own distributor.
 
Can't speak for the distributor but have bought some of his stuff which was exactly as he described and for some of the "problem solver" parts, did exactly that - solve the problem. Being the former tech éditer of the now defunct Mopar Action magazine, he knows what he's talking about.
 
halifaxhops said:
DAM IT IS STOCK PRETTY MUCH, HOW MANY YOU WANT WITH A SPEC SHEET? It is a one size fist most, run!
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Yeah there you go. Hook the brother up with one. You got the distributor machine and all.
 
RustyRatRod said:
After reading that ad, I would modify my own distributor.
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Kinda what I was thinking, some springs, looks like rivets or screws we're added to the clip bosses to keep them in place, seems about it.
 
No problem, If he can figure out the mech curve and the vac wanted no sweat at all, hell I even have steel bushings to get rid of the locking nylon ones. Actually found some good ones finally not the big ones that use a allen key and block the oil holes.
 
I have seen a few with split rivets, actually a great idea.
 
What pisses me of is that you can no longer buy the old bushing kits for Mopar dist. I used to have a couple in the trunk of the car.
 
E booger has been around a long time and probably forgotten more about Mopar performance than most of us know.A trustworthy straight shooter!
 
ir3333 said:
E booger has been around a long time and probably forgotten more about Mopar performance than most of us know.A trustworthy straight shooter!
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agreed, but like this dist. deal, check out someone like Halifaxhops here. he has put a lot of effort into offering a custom curved dist. maybe...

E bogger has a following and am one, too bad Mopar Mags are and have been pretty much, such junk!!
 
barbee6043 said:
agreed, but like this dist. deal, check out someone like Halifaxhops here. he has put a lot of effort into offering a custom curved dist. maybe...

E bogger has a following and am one, too bad Mopar Mags are and have been pretty much, such junk!!
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i agree.If you have modest skills it's not that difficult to curve your own...a good way to learn about your particular engine and what it likes.
 
That curve doesn't work for anything including a stock 318. 26 degrees of mechanical is a lot, and I'd be tearing that apart to get a shorter mechanical number in it.

If it was 20 degrees mechanical, then you have a decent piece for a car with a mild camshaft.

Find an older MP piece and fix it up.
 
crackedback said:
That curve doesn't work for anything including a stock 318. 26 degrees of mechanical is a lot, and I'd be tearing that apart to get a shorter mechanical number in it.

If it was 20 degrees mechanical, then you have a decent piece for a car with a mild camshaft.

Find an older MP piece and fix it up.
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sheesh i've read and edited this 3 times...
i see 8 plus 4 for 12 at 650 or is that 8 plus 4 x 2 for 16 at about 650 rpm?
and 8 plus 16 for 24 (8 x2) at 950 rpm
and 8 plus 26 for 34 (13 x 2) at 2500 rpm
 
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ir3333 said:
E booger has been around a long time and probably forgotten more about Mopar performance than most of us know.A trustworthy straight shooter!
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Yeah? Then read his description. He says his distributors are to be set at 8* BTDC. Hardly a performance oriented curve. I think what he knows more is how to fleece people out of their hard earned money while giving them an absolute minimum performance product all based on his"fame". Sounds about right to me.
 
ir3333 said:
E booger has been around a long time and probably forgotten more about Mopar performance than most of us know.A trustworthy straight shooter!
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AGREE, He knows Mopar.
 
Here it is in black and white the way I read this it is 26 CRANK degrees mechanical:

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I had it made as a duplicate of the 340 hi-po hi-po specs, definitely 2-stage springs, with a true street performance curve:
Less than 4 deg. mechanical adv. below 650 RPM (for cranking)
approx. 8-9 deg. at 950 (fast idle)
Approx 13 deg. at 2500 (HP)
Vacuum: near-zero at 10" vac
9-10 deg @ 15" (fuel economy / no oil dilution)
Note that these numbers are all DISTRIBUTOR degrees, double for crankshaft degrees.
==================================

So now let's retire to the service manual library and go look up a 68, maybe '9 and even maybe '70 340 and see what Ma says

So here is 68 340 without CAP which would be CA only..........Again bear in mind CRANK degrees are double these figures

68340.jpg


And here is the 70 340

70340.jpg
 
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ir3333 said:
sheesh i've read and edited this 3 times...
i see 8 plus 4 for 12 at 650 or is that 8 plus 4 x 2 for 16 at about 650 rpm?
and 8 plus 16 for 24 (8 x2) at 950 rpm
and 8 plus 26 for 34 (13 x 2) at 2500 rpm
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What's the point here? Do you feel that 8* initial is a good setting for an engine?

26* mechanical is an absolute POS for anything mopar, even a stock 318. Unless you plan on running 40* total timing, then there's a chance.
 
Note that the 70 curve actually seems shorter, which would be for emissions, but one wonders if they left out TOTAL mechanical
 
crackedback said:
What's the point here? Do you feel that 8* initial is a good setting for an engine?

26* mechanical is an absolute POS for anything mopar, even a stock 318. Unless you plan on running 40* total timing, then there's a chance.
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I agree
 
bushing.jpg
s-l500.jpg
theses are the bushings, Hey Rusty when was the last time you have seen one of these?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah? Then read his description. He says his distributors are to be set at 8* BTDC. Hardly a performance oriented curve. I think what he knows more is how to fleece people out of their hard earned money while giving them an absolute minimum performance product all based on his"fame". Sounds about right to me.
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Bingo.
 
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