Electronic Ign/Hei/Ballast Delete Wiring?

[ValiantOne]

Hey All,

I have attached a drawing of how my ignition and voltage regulator wiring is currently set up. And a second drawing of what I am proposing via utilization of my new TrailBeast supplied HEI, 8 pin, E coil set up and removal of the ballast resistor.

Do I have this right?

Thanks,

Chris E.

 

[67Dart273]

I don't understand your coil wiring. The way I understand those coils, one terminal on each end is the same. This means you can get it wrong. The terminals that are closest together are not parallel, they are opposite ends of the coil electrically.

 

[ValiantOne]

I don't understand your coil wiring. The way I understand those coils, one terminal on each end is the same. This means you can get it wrong. The terminals that are closest together are not parallel, they are opposite ends of the coil electrically.

I'm not worried about the coil wiring too much as the connectors TrailBeast supplies can only be plugged into the correct terminals at the coil and module. See picture. What I am mainly concerned with is did I get the balast delete, voltage regulator, bulkhead wires and coil power supply correct.

Thanks!

 

[TrailBeast]

There are two wires that go from the bulkhead up toward the ballast that carry "Key on" ignition power.
One is hot only in the start position and one is hot only in the run position and the recommendation is to tie those two wires together and use them for the HEI coil supply. (Red wire on the grey connector.)

You may have to disconnect your starter at the relay and disconnect the coil positive wire to test light out these two wires.
Are you sure your ballast is wired like the pic shows?
You might have to leave the ballast in the regulator circuit and use the wire that comes of the coil positive as your ignition power.
The thing that concerns me is that the way it shows wired might put a damaging amount of power through your regulator if you tie those two from the bulkhead in your pic together and give the regulator a full 12v.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Listen to Trailbeast. His stuff is top notch. He's a real straight shooter and will help any way he can.

Oh and I farted.

 

[ValiantOne]

Are you sure your ballast is wired like the pic shows?
You might have to leave the ballast in the regulator circuit and use the wire that comes of the coil positive as your ignition power.
The thing that concerns me is that the way it shows wired might put a damaging amount of power through your regulator if you tie those two from the bulkhead in your pic together and give the regulator a full 12v.

Okay, so I'm having the same problem getting my head around this. Yes I'm sure that this is the way my system is wired. When I upgraded to the electronic voltage regulator I used this schematic from allpar

Edited***

Okay, I'm looking at this again. This schematic would have a full 12 volts going to the VR during "run" operation, no?

So, if the blue w/white stripe, and brown from the bulkhead connector were spliced together as in my "Proposed Set Up" diagram, the VR would be getting a full 12 volts all the time, which it is already, right?

 

[ValiantOne]

I can't be the only guy who ever converted to an electronic voltage regulator and then went on to do an HEI upgrade! arrrgh!

 

[ValiantOne]

You might have to leave the ballast in the regulator circuit and use the wire that comes of the coil positive as your ignition power.

I saw this suggested in your instructions under the temporary hook up right? But if I do this I am getting lower (less than 12 volts via the resistor) to the E coil right? If so, than it would negate the main reason I am doing the upgrade which is to have full oooomph at the spark plugs. Hotter spark, wider gap, yadda yadda.... Do I have this correct?

Thanks,

CE

 

[TrailBeast]

Okay, so I'm having the same problem getting my head around this. Yes I'm sure that this is the way my system is wired. When I upgraded to the electronic voltage regulator I used this schematic from allpar

View attachment 1714943580


But like you, I take this to mean that "conditioned" (ie. lower voltage) is going from the ballast resistor (via the blue "run" wire) to the voltage regulator module.

If I just jump the ballast reisistor with a short piece of wire, with 2 male spade terminals on it, aren't I doing exactly the same thing as what I suggested in my "Proposed Set Up" drawing. And if so it would mean to me that I am putting a full 12 volts into the Voltage Regulator at all times. I don't know if that is good or not. ???

I can't be the only guy to ever do a electronic VR upgrade and then do an HEI upgrade on top of that!

But I am flummoxed. Do I need to keep the ballast resistor for the sake of the Voltage Regulator?

Thanks!

CE

Okay, so I'm having the same problem getting my head around this. Yes I'm sure that this is the way my system is wired. When I upgraded to the electronic voltage regulator I used this schematic from allpar

View attachment 1714943580


Edited***

Okay, I'm looking at this again. This schematic would have a full 12 volts going to the VR during "run" operation, no?

So, if the blue w/white stripe, and brown from the bulkhead connector were spliced together as in my "Proposed Set Up" diagram, the VR would be getting a full 12 volts all the time, which it is already, right?

It looks like you understand correctly about the regulator concern, so you should be good with your new diagram.
I think the regulator sensing off the ignition is what messed with me.
Should be fine.

The red and black are marked wrong between the coil and the module but it doesn't matter because the wires only go on one way because of the connectors.
Red is toward the end of the module (or it better be).

 

[67Dart273]

I think the regulator sensing off the ignition is what messed with me

That is how it should be wired, and I hate to complicate this but MANY of these cars have a voltage drop problem which AFFECTS the voltage regulator, causing the battery to run "high."

In other words to the OP................It would be wise to consider using the two bulhead wires to trigger a relay, fused off the starter relay, and use that relay to feed your ignition, VR, and alternator field.

 

[ValiantOne]

That is how it should be wired, and I hate to complicate this but MANY of these cars have a voltage drop problem which AFFECTS the voltage regulator, causing the battery to run "high."

In other words to the OP................It would be wise to consider using the two bulhead wires to trigger a relay, fused off the starter relay, and use that relay to feed your ignition, VR, and alternator field.

Okay, that is making sense in my head. If the VR isn't seeing the true battery voltage, and is seeing something lower than the actual battery voltage it would try to overcharge the battery. Do i have that right?

I like the idea of a relay running everything at full power and may well revisit that idea in the future. This car is destined to get an efi 360 magnum which will require a new wiring harness under the hood. I also kept the power distribution box from the donor truck which has lots of relays available for whatever. But that is getting off topic!

 

[TrailBeast]

Okay, that is making sense in my head. If the VR isn't seeing the true battery voltage, and is seeing something lower than the actual battery voltage it would try to overcharge the battery. Do i have that right?

I like the idea of a relay running everything at full power and may well revisit that idea in the future. This car is destined to get an efi 360 magnum which will require a new wiring harness under the hood. I also kept the power distribution box from the donor truck which has lots of relays available for whatever. But that is getting off topic!

Yes, you have that right.
And cool, cause it's always nice to have relays.

 

[BigBlockMopar]

I put my ignition system behind a relay.
But I also used a GM HEI module and an MSD e-core coil. No ballast resistor in the system.
Also I installed a '90s (Ford) alternator so I'm not using much of the original chargingsystem anymore.

Will be installing a MegaSquirt ECU these days to be able to tailor the ignition curve better, and control fuel later on.

 

[ValiantOne]

I put my ignition system behind a relay.
But I also used a GM HEI module and an MSD e-core coil. No ballast resistor in the system.
Also I installed a '90s (Ford) alternator so I'm not using much of the original chargingsystem anymore.

Will be installing a MegaSquirt ECU these days to be able to tailor the ignition curve better, and control fuel later on.

Are you just using the Megasquirt for the timing capability or is your engine fuel injected?

 

[TrailBeast]

Are you just using the Megasquirt for the timing capability or is your engine fuel injected?

I got the impression he is going to use it for timing first and probably EFI later on.
FYI, in case you didn't realize it your HEI kits is also capable of the same thing.
The Megasquirt instructions lay out the diagrams and programming procedures for it on their website.

 

[67Dart273]

Okay, that is making sense in my head. If the VR isn't seeing the true battery voltage, and is seeing something lower than the actual battery voltage it would try to overcharge the battery. Do i have that right?

Exactly and absolutely, and that IS one of the problems many of these girls suffer

I like the idea of a relay running everything at full power and may well revisit that idea in the future. This car is destined to get an efi 360 magnum which will require a new wiring harness under the hood. I also kept the power distribution box from the donor truck which has lots of relays available for whatever. But that is getting off topic!

I ran a Jeep relay box for awhile in mine.

 

[BigBlockMopar]

Are you just using the Megasquirt for the timing capability or is your engine fuel injected?

Just timing, for the 'time' being.
Stock '73 318 engine.

Will try to install a trigger wheel at the same time as the distributor timing is doing funny things upto around 1200rpm.