Enclosed Trailer Questions

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Lots of good info, thanks guys! For clarification, I have an old 3/4 ton duramax that I tow with.

One more question, has anyone had any issue with excess heat inside of Black vs White trailers? I love the look of black (or dark blue) trailers, just not sure if it would be substantially hotter inside compared to its white counterpart.
 
A 20' will work if you only plan on hauling the car and some tools. 24' would give you more room to carry extra stuff. If you plan on a pit vechile a 24' is a must. If you plan on a golf cart (without a the back seat) you'd need a min of 24' V nose. I have a 24' Car mate and it will not fit my duster and golf cart (it may fit but everything would be way to close for comfort. My dad has a 24' V nose and it will haul the duster and golf cart with a few inches to spare. Trailers you typically get what you pay for. If you can get the 6 lug and heavier tires.
 
Demonx2 said:
John - are you saying the riveted walls hold up better in the heat than the smooth exterior walls? I assume a min thickness of .040 but even with that, and say a black exterior, don't the panels rip through the rivets in the heat/sun loads?
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Yes Sir = Never see that happen.
However, we use a super very expensive two sided tape (Similar
to what holds Space Shuttle tiles on) as well
as screws to hold the Aluminum segments together.

Also be sure 3/4 Plywood on the Floor on 16 centers
if you can find it. I prefer tongue and groove.

Again, Get a Minimun of 6000 Axles: better 7000 Axles
Load range E Radials. 16 inch if you can get them.
A lot of trailer are not built to accept 16 inch (Fenders too small)
so best to get them on the trailer when built.
 
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I have a 28' enclosed and I am able to fit my 72' workbench, 96" overhead storage cabinet, 54" double bay tool box, golf cart, fuel jug rack, 3 nitrous bottle racks with with battery and all other racing equipment along with my cars.
 
Sublime one said:
Side door for getting out of the car a must. Unless you like tantric yoga positions. I would replace the “new“ trailer tires immediately with good ones or specify that as part of the initial negotiations. The OEM tires are crap, I blew three of them very rapidly. As previously mentioned go 28 if at all possible. I carry two spares not one.
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I like to use a winch instead of an escape door. It's nice to be able to drive it into the trailer but what if you're broke down?
Agree with loosing the crap tires that they all come with. I have never had an issue with Carlisle.
Get an electric tongue jack. They usually don't come with one.
If you want a generator slide out make one yourself, it's a lot cheaper. Lots of stuff you may want you can add yourself like extra D rings or E-track, pit pal stuff, etc.
 
LO23M8B said:
Yes it just ain't gonna work. Need a minimum of a 3/4 ton. They test there towing weights on a flat road at 60 mph. So cut in half what they tell you. Plus if something ever happens to the trailer brakes there is no way to stop that rig on a 1/2 ton brakes. On My 1/2 ton suburban it happened at a total of less than 8000 lbs. with no weight in the vehicle. Please trust me on this your life and the lives of others are at risk.
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Agreed. Too many idiots out there that will slam on the brakes or cut you off. I recently was coming home in the dark and came upon a semi trying to turn a 53' flatbed into a small driveway out on an unlighted highway. The cab and headlights were in the driveway but the all black trailer was completely across the road with no lights and no reflectors on the side and I had to hit the brakes really hard and head for the ditch to miss the tail of the trailer. It's a lot safer going down the track than it is out on the road!
 
flyfish said:
Lots of good info, thanks guys! For clarification, I have an old 3/4 ton duramax that I tow with.

One more question, has anyone had any issue with excess heat inside of Black vs White trailers? I love the look of black (or dark blue) trailers, just not sure if it would be substantially hotter inside compared to its white counterpart.
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Yes black will be a lot hotter. These idiots on the road can't drive or see. I'm all for white or red gives you 1/2 a chance. On a general note, carry real flares people will just drive thru reflectors, flashing lights or orange cones but they"ll go in a ditch before running into a flare.
 
I had close to 15,000.00 in my 26 foot trailer laid out how I wanted it and considered a side door but went without it. I’m young enough (almost 67) to get out the driver side window and when it gets too tight I go on a diet. I installed my winch but have never used it in the trailer yet in four years. Maybe one of these days.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I had close to 15,000.00 in my 26 foot trailer laid out how I wanted it and considered a side door but went without it. I’m young enough (almost 67) to get out the driver side window and when it gets too tight I go on a diet. I installed my winch but have never used it in the trailer yet in four years. Maybe one of these days.
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Going on a diet makes the car lighter!
 
A winch is a good idea I just put one in my trailer after 20 years. My wife bought it for me because she got tired of helping me push the car in and out. I don't use it all the time as I just drive the car in unless its broken. I do use it and its been a big help in loading my D150 I used to have to take the tonneau cover off and climb thru the sliding rear window with the winch I dont have to do that anymore.

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I like my 24' V-nose. Gives me lots of room ahead and Behind. 5800lb axles and E-track and Bonnets. I use for those 200+ trips and to bring behind the motor home on vacation occasionally!

Never mind it makes great extra storage when not in use, large floor mounted box in the V for blankets and straps!

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1969383S said:
I like my 24' V-nose. Gives me lots of room ahead and Behind. 5800lb axles and E-track and Bonnets. I use for those 200+ trips and to bring behind the motor home on vacation occasionally!

Never mind it makes great extra storage when not in use, large floor mounted box in the V for blankets and straps!

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Maybe it's just me but I always use chains and cross them when tying down. I am always afraid the straps could become loose in a panic stop. I do like the way your straps hold down the front of the car from bouncing. May get away with straps on the front but the rear chains are for me. Nice Barracuda!!!!!
 
when i bought my last 1, it was 24 v nose. went to ga and bought it. a good trailer but i should have bought a 28. i got mine with 9900 gvw because laws vary by state as to what plate and drivers lic you have to have. lic fees and tax vary state to state. you have a couple places in indy to buy from. make your dollar stretch as far as you can.
 
My 24 ft V-nose does have a pretty decent amount of space up front for extras, although I use my truck box for most stuff, and for camping out in if needed.

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Swinger 340 said:
Maybe it's just me but I always use chains and cross them when tying down. I am always afraid the straps could become loose in a panic stop. I do like the way your straps hold down the front of the car from bouncing. May get away with straps on the front but the rear chains are for me. Nice Barracuda!!!!!
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They let the cars suspension move! I think it makes for less harsh ride back there. They have never came loose on me, even to Carlisle up the awefull I-81!
 
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1969383S said:
They let the cars suspension move! I think it make for less harsh ride back there. They have never came loose on me, even to Carlisle up the awefull I-81!
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Exactly how I do mine as well and no issues on the 2600 mile haul to Talladega and back in '19. I did add two "panic stop" straps for that trip though. I don't usually bother. That said, I absolutely LOVE my "spread axle" for towing, no "kidney kicks" at all pulling it.

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How about some comments on trailer height? Is a 7' interior height worth it over the standard 6'-6"? I'm sure there's a fuel economy hit pulling the taller one but interested in those that have either. I'm only about 6'-2" so seems either would work.
 
I had my trailer shown above built a foot higher (86" though the door, 92" high inside center) than stock so I could get an A100 pickup in it if I wanted to and my airplane fuselages that I work on regularily. I actually get better gas mileage pulling this high 24'r than I do pulling my normal height 18'. Makes no sense, but it is what it is.
 
Demonx2 said:
How about some comments on trailer height? Is a 7' interior height worth it over the standard 6'-6"? I'm sure there's a fuel economy hit pulling the taller one but interested in those that have either. I'm only about 6'-2" so seems either would work.
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Higher the Better IMO! Also the side door like ^^^^^^^ above in post 41 is worth every Penny!

I was not as thick as I am now when I bought mine, and wish I had the foresight to get that option!
 
If you order one with the escape door check the distance to the bottom of the car door and make sure the opening in the trailer is low enough, otherwise you’ll have to raise the floor some. I ended up having to raise mine about 2” so I laid down a 2x12 and along with a piece of 3/4 plywood to get the height I needed

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I upgraded from a 1990 Haulmark 24x8 to a United Super Hauler in August 2020. I bought it new and had it custom ordered. 28'x8.5' with 7'0" interior height, ST235/80R16 tires with 8 bolt lug, 5200# axles, driver side escape door, rear wing option, 1' extended tongue with electric jack, 4' door flap, generator door with compartment, deluxe "L" cabinet package with full locker, spare tire compartment, aluminum slide out step, prepped for A/C (Added an A/C unit myself later), raised coin floor, winch plate (added a winch later). I think the 7'0" interior height is a great upgrade. The 1990 Haulmark was a great trailer and I actually sold it to a friend who still uses it to this day. I was lucky enough to purchase this trailer before all the pricing totally skyrocketed. I was actually able to get the trailer for just under $20k, not sure what it would cost now. Trailer weighs 6385lbs empty.
 
I paid $4700 for my 28' three years ago. Crazy what even used are going for today. I have had offers up to $8900 for mine just by it sitting at my house. New wheels and tires now.

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71Demon528 said:
I upgraded from a 1990 Haulmark 24x8 to a United Super Hauler in August 2020. I bought it new and had it custom ordered. 28'x8.5' with 7'0" interior height, ST235/80R16 tires with 8 bolt lug, 5200# axles, driver side escape door, rear wing option, 1' extended tongue with electric jack, 4' door flap, generator door with compartment, deluxe "L" cabinet package with full locker, spare tire compartment, aluminum slide out step, prepped for A/C (Added an A/C unit myself later), raised coin floor, winch plate (added a winch later). I think the 7'0" interior height is a great upgrade. The 1990 Haulmark was a great trailer and I actually sold it to a friend who still uses it to this day. I was lucky enough to purchase this trailer before all the pricing totally skyrocketed. I was actually able to get the trailer for just under $20k, not sure what it would cost now. Trailer weighs 6385lbs empty.
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You did well!! I was just looking at United trailers. Yours would be in the $30-$34k range easily.

My only question is the escape door height still seems too high to be able to open the driver door on the car. Driver door will clear the fender but, by measurement, not the lower edge of the wall with the escape door open. My avatar car would clear but it sits up higher due to CalTracs and slicks. But my all stock 71 Demon 340 is too low - it would not clear. Wondering what people do for a car like this. Maybe have a board under tires where car sits or ??
 
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