Engine back from machining! What next!

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
Joined
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Got my engine block, crank and parts back from machine.. 440 in case your wondering. What next? Do I go into cleaning and assembling? Ive got, torque specs, sequences wrote down. Cleanances to check and tolerances. Using Lubriplate grease is this ok? Only doing short block for now. Any tips and help appreciated thanks for reading.
 
first ting i do is run a tap through every hole then clean clean clean even if everything was hottanked. then i clean and orgainize my tools and parts then i measure everything and log it. thats how i start.
 
jimjimjimmy said:
first ting i do is run a tap through every hole then clean clean clean even if everything was hottanked. then i clean and orgainize my tools and parts then i measure everything and log it. thats how i start.
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^^^Agreed. I always run a tap down every hole to make sure any debris is gone. Makes assembly go much smoother...
 
roughidle said:
^^^Agreed. I always run a tap down every hole to make sure any debris is gone. Makes assembly go much smoother...
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x3 then clean every thing at lest twice.blow it dri and give it a final rinse of brake clean.and get a piece of 3/8 gas hose ( 2 pieces about 3inchs.long) for over your rod bolts so wen you put the pistons and rod in they wont hit the crank.take your time and don't get desaturated buy other people.and before you put your pan on retork everything just to be sure............Artie
 
I've only assembled one engine and I did just what everyone here has said.Use paper towels not cloth rags to clean(read this in my assembly book) watch for sharp edges.Bottom tap all the threaded holes.Take your time,have fun.Knowing that you assembled it,It's a real blast when you crank that beast over for the first time and she fires off.Makes me want to do it again.....hhhmmm
 
Wash the entire block with warm water and dish soap. Rinse it real good with cold water. Dry it with compressed air. Spray it down with brake cleaner. When that dry's I spray a light coat of WD-40 on every surface. Check all your clearances, check them again. I then install the crank dry on the bearings. DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT turn the crank when it is sitting on dry bearings. I then check the numbers I got with the micrometer with plasti-guage. Another words I check again. When I am happy, I will start assembling the short block for real. Take your time and check everything at least 3 times. It takes all day, but it is worth it in the end. Good Luck and Enjoy.

Jack
 
When I build my motors I use some STP on all my parts to be assembled (like super thick oil additive) and bores. Check that your cam still slides into its bearings if they have been replaced - sometimes they need to be honed to suit, same as the dizzy drive bush.

I also get the high pressure cleaner out and blast the buggery out of the block to get ALL the metal leftovers out - you want to make sure they are all gone before assembly. Dry the motor off and oil up the bores so surface rust doesn't start. Make sure you follow the instructions on gapping your rings - take your time with this, no need to rush it. Do you have a good ring compressor - you'll need one, fingers don't work here.

Check your end float on the crank, you may need to sand down the appropriate bearing if it's a bit tight, once again take your time.
 
Coyote Jack said:
Wash the entire block with warm water and dish soap. Rinse it real good with cold water. Dry it with compressed air. Spray it down with brake cleaner. When that dry's I spray a light coat of WD-40 on every surface. Check all your clearances, check them again. I then install the crank dry on the bearings. DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT turn the crank when it is sitting on dry bearings. I then check the numbers I got with the micrometer with plasti-guage. Another words I check again. When I am happy, I will start assembling the short block for real. Take your time and check everything at least 3 times. It takes all day, but it is worth it in the end. Good Luck and Enjoy.

Jack
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^^^^^^
what Jack said
 
clean real good, tap holes, clean again, break cleaner, wd-40, check clearances, plasti-guage. If your not going to use motor for little use the paste assembly lube.
 
Yup bought some tonight have to stop and pick it up when they open! Ive got a pretty good idea of what i need to do here. Ive got all the supplies and tools i need. Now ive seen conflicting videos and posts about what to coat the pistons with b4 install Some say light oil others say WD-40 what do yall use?
 
check your piston rings gap before you put them on your pistons. insert just the ring one at a time in the cylinder use a piston to level it up. then check the gap to make sure its within spec file the end if nessicary match the rings to each cylinder not just use one cylinder for all of your rings. example start with cyl #1 check 3 rings in cyl #1 install those rings on number 1 piston then onto number 2. and soak your lifters in new oil for acouple of days or until your ready to install them that way they'll be pumped up.over time the oil will seep into the lifters. you can also use a pushrod and slowly push down on the lifters while there submerged in oil. while you push down on the lifter hold it down for a bit oil will go in you'll see air bubbles come out. i like to use marvel mystery oil on my pistons great stuff. also dont be cheap on the assembly lube. just like women motors dont like dry starts!! goodluck and have fun
 
dont forget to fit the cam first - BB Mopars are notorious for a not so well fitting cam bearings and this can make the cam tight in spots - its the first thing you should check
 
Coyote Jack said:
Wash the entire block with warm water and dish soap. Rinse it real good with cold water. Dry it with compressed air. Spray it down with brake cleaner. When that dry's I spray a light coat of WD-40 on every surface. Check all your clearances, check them again. I then install the crank dry on the bearings. DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT turn the crank when it is sitting on dry bearings. I then check the numbers I got with the micrometer with plasti-guage. Another words I check again. When I am happy, I will start assembling the short block for real. Take your time and check everything at least 3 times. It takes all day, but it is worth it in the end. Good Luck and Enjoy.

Jack
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Tony Fields said:
^^^^^^
what Jack said
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Xs 3 I also used Motor Honey to put everything together after checking all the clearances with plasti gauge. I also had to run taps down 2-3 times to get them clean even after hot tanking they were still that dirty.
 
The most important item everyone forgets is make sure you clean the protective coating off the bearings. They should shine. Not a dull silver. Forgetting this makes a shorter life of a good motor. Seen many with scoured bearings when tore back down for other reasons and checked. Working on top fuel cars this is a must. Oil in these cars lasts one round.. Then you throw the milk away.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Yup bought some tonight have to stop and pick it up when they open! Ive got a pretty good idea of what i need to do here. Ive got all the supplies and tools i need. Now ive seen conflicting videos and posts about what to coat the pistons with b4 install Some say light oil others say WD-40 what do yall use?
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Best stuff I have found to keep surface rust from coming up is Remington gun oil in a spray can. It is called "Rem oil". Definately get it on machined surfaces and hardened parts like valve springs.
 
Glad to hear you got your engine back Josh.As already said,clean,clean,clean.Springtime is just around the corner.:D
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The most important item everyone forgets is make sure you clean the protective coating off the bearings. They should shine. Not a dull silver. Forgetting this makes a shorter life of a good motor. Seen many with scoured bearings when tore back down for other reasons and checked. Working on top fuel cars this is a must. Oil in these cars lasts one round.. Then you throw the milk away.
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I've never heard this....What would be the point of this if you're buying bearings with protective coating for those reasons....?


Also...fit the came and see how freely it spins...you might have to mess with the cam bearings to make it spin easier if the bearings are tight.
 
Well its clean.. sorry no photos. I used Purple Power and a soft toilet brush. Worked great! Then used a pressure washer to flush everything out. I was amazed how fast the flash rust came. It wasnt barely 5min. But i got to it quick with some WD-40 wiped the bores, lifter bores and mains. Plan to get it home i cleaned it at work. So i can get it on the stand and clean bores again and machine surfaces. Then start cleaning the assembly parts. Thanks for the help ill keep yall updated.
 
Ok so I hit a snag.. maybe.. Crank in, everything spec'ed out good. Cam in as well. Now here is the snag Piston Ring gap. The table below is from the ICON website my pistons are ICON 9953 which there website says are forged pistons. Using their table .004 x 4.350= .0174.. So my top ring gap should be at .018 or so. After measure what i have the gap is about .022. Am I understanding all this correctly? What worries me is I look at the other table and see the .0065 per inch bore which would be about .028 thou of gap!. Photo didnt show up well here is a link http://www.kb-silvolite.com/icon/clearance_pop.php
 

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Sorry taping the holes is one of last things to do. Get your self some tide laundry detergent,white rags and warm water and clean the block.You should get all the dirt out of the cylinders.Clean until the white rags stay white.This is a good time to deburr the block.Have a air tank to blow the dirt and water out of the holes.When you get to this point give me a shout. Mark
jimjimjimmy said:
first ting i do is run a tap through every hole then clean clean clean even if everything was hottanked. then i clean and orgainize my tools and parts then i measure everything and log it. thats how i start.
Click to expand...
 
Obviously having a can or two of CRC Brakleen for cleaning is an absolute.

For cleaning out the cylinder bores, we always us Goop Multi-Purpose Creme #12
(Hand Cleaner) and paper towels. You won't believe how much more grit that creme picks up off the walls.

If you're not assembling the engine soon, coat the cylinder walls with Marvel Myster Oil, and wipe all machined
parts with the stuff. It is a fantastic product, and fairly easy to clean off the parts before assembly.

Using 3M Scotch-Brite Pads (Light Grade) works wonders, for removing any metal burs off the pistons, before the ring assembly.

Make sure you run a brush (or pipe cleaner) through the crankshaft oil holes. Blowing them out with air only, will 'not'
do the proper cleaning.

On the Top Piston Ring, .018 is correct for the 4.350" bore.

A suggestion would be to purchase a set of Speed Pro or Sealed Power .030 over + .005 Rings, and file fit them for proper clearance.
 
69 Cuda 440 said:
Obviously having a can or two of CRC Brakleen for cleaning is an absolute.

For cleaning out the cylinder bores, we always us Goop Multi-Purpose Creme #12
(Hand Cleaner) and paper towels. You won't believe how much more grit that creme picks up off the walls.

If you're not assembling the engine soon, coat the cylinder walls with Marvel Myster Oil, and wipe all machined
parts with the stuff. It is a fantastic product, and fairly easy to clean off the parts before assembly.

Using 3M Scotch-Brite Pads (Light Grade) works wonders, for removing any metal burs off the pistons, before the ring assembly.

Make sure you run a brush (or pipe cleaner) through the crankshaft oil holes. Blowing them out with air only, will 'not'
do the proper cleaning.

On the Top Piston Ring, .018 is correct for the 4.350" bore.

A suggestion would be to purchase a set of Speed Pro or Sealed Power .030 over + .005 Rings, and file fit them for proper clearance.
Click to expand...

Get Summit piston rings, they are made by Hastings a good brand, so I've been told by both MRL Performance and IMM.
 
One thing that hasnt been mentioned is to deburr the block. If you have the die grinder needed,or even just a file this can be a good thing to do. It will prevent stress risers and cracks from forming.
 
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